Ignition switch
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New User
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 6
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From: Hamilton, Ohio
Ignition switch
I got in the truck to head for the airport and the ignition switch seems to have punked out on me. The normal positions on the switch have no "feel" to them anymore and the key just turns without doing anything other than causing the dash warning lights to come on. After removing the key the door chime still sounds as if the key was in the ignition.
My guess is that the ignition switch has broken. Does that seem logical with the behavior it displays?? I couldn't find any information in my Chilton's on switch replacement. Can someone sort of outline what I am in for once I return home and try to fix it? Where is the switch and how difficult is it to access for replacement? Hopefully I can get it done next week end as I need my Ford back!! Thanks for any help. I will be away from my computer and email account until late Friday.
Randy
My guess is that the ignition switch has broken. Does that seem logical with the behavior it displays?? I couldn't find any information in my Chilton's on switch replacement. Can someone sort of outline what I am in for once I return home and try to fix it? Where is the switch and how difficult is it to access for replacement? Hopefully I can get it done next week end as I need my Ford back!! Thanks for any help. I will be away from my computer and email account until late Friday.
Randy
Elder User
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 550
Likes: 1
From: Effingham,IL USA
Ignition switch
the ignition key cylinder can be changed easier than the actual switch. you might have to take the steering wheel off but other than that, its not all that hard. the actual switch is mounted on the column in the dash. you have to drop the column down to change it. i would change the lock cylinder first. theres a hole on the steering column on my 83 non tilt truck. just put key in and turn to run push a 1/8th drill bit in the hole to push the retainer pin it and you just pull out the cylinder. move the new switch to run, push retainer pin in and put the new cylinder in the column. i just changed mine yesterday. you might have to remove the wheel and or trim shrouds to get to the pin hole on yours. if that doesnt help you need to change the switch, which is connected to the key cylinder with a metal rod.
Senior User
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 206
Likes: 2
Ignition switch
Had the same trouble with my '89 F150 about a year ago. I found that the problem was somewhere behind the lock cylinder, and simply replaced the whole key-switch assembly with a 50amp toggle and a marine style push button mounted on the lower right of the dash (where the "water in fuel" light, etc go for the diesel). The setup works great, that is, if you like starting your truck like a tractor 
.
If you want to keep the key switch you'll probably have to pull the steering wheel and dig around behind the lock cylinder.
Good Luck!
.If you want to keep the key switch you'll probably have to pull the steering wheel and dig around behind the lock cylinder.
Good Luck!
New User
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 13
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From: Atlanta GA
Ignition switch
Just changed the lockset on my F350. Remove bottom steering shroud, disconnect battery, turn key to normal run position, locate small hole under lockset, push nail/drill up and jiggle/pull on key. Slides out real easy. The new one was a big problem. Tried 3 from Autozone, all were too big and jammed about 3/4 way in. A new one from dealer is $80. Found a PILOT make that fitted from Advance Autoparts. $14-00.
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New User
Joined: Mar 2003
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From: Hamilton, Ohio
Ignition switch
Thanks for the responses to my post. I forgot to mention that it is an 89 F150. So no airbag, but it does have tilt.
I removed the two pieces that cover the column right before the instrument cluster and the center of the steering wheel (which includes all the wiring for the cruise control). I was unable to remove the steering wheel itself as it seems to require a puller and it would be the type that I don't have. I did find that if I turned the key as far as it would go I could then use a pair of small vise grips to push the rod that was revealed when I removed the two pieces in front of the cluster and that activated the starter. So while it is not the best situation I am able to use the truck.
Any way of getting around finding the correct puller to pop the wheel loose??
Randy
I removed the two pieces that cover the column right before the instrument cluster and the center of the steering wheel (which includes all the wiring for the cruise control). I was unable to remove the steering wheel itself as it seems to require a puller and it would be the type that I don't have. I did find that if I turned the key as far as it would go I could then use a pair of small vise grips to push the rod that was revealed when I removed the two pieces in front of the cluster and that activated the starter. So while it is not the best situation I am able to use the truck.
Any way of getting around finding the correct puller to pop the wheel loose??
Randy
Senior User
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 431
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From: Midwest
Ignition switch
On your truck you don't have to pull the steering wheel. Under where the lock cylinder is at, at about the 8 o'clock postion if you are looking straight at the cylinder from the side of the column. Take a drill bit, about an 1/8 inch or so, turn the key to run and insert the drill bit in the little hole at the position I just described and pull the cylinder. Installation of the new cylinder is a reverse of removal. Just make sure the new cylinder is in the run position when you install it. It takes about 4 minutes with a beer break to replace the cylinder on your truck. The ignition switch isn't very hard to replace but from your description I would replace the cylinder first.
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Hotshot
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 12,679
Likes: 15
From: BC, Canada
Ignition switch
To me it sounds more like your ignition switch actuator is broken. It is the piece that "connects" the lock cylinder to the ignition switch. These do break quite often and are a bit of a pain to replace. You have to pull the whole top part of the column apart, steering wheel off etc. If you hit the search button near the top of the page here you should be able to find more info on replacing it.
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Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 9,987
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From: Memphis, TN
Ignition switch
If you can turn the key, you don't need to drill anything. But I agree with Racerguy - it sounds more like the operation linkage than the lock cylinder or the ignition switch.
Even if you had an airbag, you don't have to worry - it's perfectly safe to remove & install it at home.
To remove the steering wheel without a puller, back the nut off so it's about 1 full turn higher than the shaft, put your knees behind the wheel & pull, then smack the nut with a heavy ball peen hammer. The nut will keep you from damaging the shaft, but be sure to hit so the face of the hammer is square to & centered on the nut. After a couple of love taps, the wheel will pop out & hit the nut (another reason you LEAVE the nut on
), and then you can finish removing it.
Even if you had an airbag, you don't have to worry - it's perfectly safe to remove & install it at home.
To remove the steering wheel without a puller, back the nut off so it's about 1 full turn higher than the shaft, put your knees behind the wheel & pull, then smack the nut with a heavy ball peen hammer. The nut will keep you from damaging the shaft, but be sure to hit so the face of the hammer is square to & centered on the nut. After a couple of love taps, the wheel will pop out & hit the nut (another reason you LEAVE the nut on
), and then you can finish removing it.
Senior User
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 235
Likes: 1
Ignition switch
Happened to me on one of my trucks. Turns out that 'arm' device was broken/bent. In the end, I just dropped the steering wheel, unbolted the whole switch and installed it under the dash.
Removed the key lock cylinder and now I just start the truck with a screw driver directly at the switch. All nice and clean under the dash. Heck, I don't even have a key for the doors anymore....
Occasionally the odd police officer will give the ignition a second glance and a raised eyebrow, but I have not been questioned about it yet. I was going to rig up a push button ignition on the truck, but figured my two boys would be playing in it someday and accidently start it with a foot or something. This way, you actually have to know what to do with the slider switch, instead of 'hey what does this button do?'
Hope this helps....
Removed the key lock cylinder and now I just start the truck with a screw driver directly at the switch. All nice and clean under the dash. Heck, I don't even have a key for the doors anymore....
Occasionally the odd police officer will give the ignition a second glance and a raised eyebrow, but I have not been questioned about it yet. I was going to rig up a push button ignition on the truck, but figured my two boys would be playing in it someday and accidently start it with a foot or something. This way, you actually have to know what to do with the slider switch, instead of 'hey what does this button do?'
Hope this helps....
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New User
Joined: Mar 2003
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From: Hamilton, Ohio
Ignition switch
Thanks to everyone for their responses. It was in fact the actuator that was broken. It gets old using a pair of vise grips to start your truck!!
I did try the hammer method to remove the steering wheel. Because of the tilt wheel I was reluctant to smack it very hard so I made a puller out of two 8mm 1.0 pitch bolts and the aluminum head off of an old moped!! It had two holes 1 3/8" apart that only needed to be be drilled slightly larger before cutting away the parts that weren't destined to be part of the tool. The bolts were 50mm long and the head thickness (after breaking off the cooling fins) was just right to get the bolts started before getting down to pulling. Great luck was involved
Even after pulling the side pins the new actuator still was too long to get in. I ground about 1/8" off of the end before it would go in. Everything went back together although I thought the gears that allow the steering lock to go into place were going to be a problem in being mismatched for the insertion of the tumbler set (but they weren't).
Again thanks for all the tips and advice. When my schedule slows down I'll have to do a search on "heater core" as mine ruptured about three weeks ago... always something.
Randy
I did try the hammer method to remove the steering wheel. Because of the tilt wheel I was reluctant to smack it very hard so I made a puller out of two 8mm 1.0 pitch bolts and the aluminum head off of an old moped!! It had two holes 1 3/8" apart that only needed to be be drilled slightly larger before cutting away the parts that weren't destined to be part of the tool. The bolts were 50mm long and the head thickness (after breaking off the cooling fins) was just right to get the bolts started before getting down to pulling. Great luck was involved
Even after pulling the side pins the new actuator still was too long to get in. I ground about 1/8" off of the end before it would go in. Everything went back together although I thought the gears that allow the steering lock to go into place were going to be a problem in being mismatched for the insertion of the tumbler set (but they weren't).
Again thanks for all the tips and advice. When my schedule slows down I'll have to do a search on "heater core" as mine ruptured about three weeks ago... always something.
Randy
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New User
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 6
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From: Hamilton, Ohio
Ignition switch
A quick search after my last post seemed to indicate that, although there was one post that said the big 6 had to have a portion of its AC system removed as well. That must have been for a year other than my era (1989) as Chilton's does show it as a quick fix as well.
There was also mention of the need to add a grounding strap to prevent early failure due to electolosis. Which should be easy enough as well.
Randy
There was also mention of the need to add a grounding strap to prevent early failure due to electolosis. Which should be easy enough as well.
Randy