Pics sent. Good Luck!!

 

With as much time, money and effort that I'm putting in to my truck I just feel that the POR-15 is the best bet without spending what powder coating would cost.

My frame is basically a one of a kind. My truck is going to be a year round daily driver. So I want something a little tougher then regular paint.

I'm going to clean it up, get it down to bare metal. Prep the frame, apply the POR-15. Give it a coat of their self etching primer and then the Hardnose two part top coat. The hardnose paint is much tougher then their chassis paint. But it is also a high gloss finish.

People will say that POR-15 won't stick to clean bare metal. I've never had an issue. But I also go over the metal with a coarse grit sandpaper and use the Metal Ready metal etcher.

This is just the way I prefer to do the frame. As you can tell there is a whole list of products/methods you can use to finish your frame. It really comes down to what you want.

 

Degreased and wire brushed, epoxy primed, then painted with single stage urethane in the body color.

 

Another vote for POR 15. Yes it is UV sensitive but all that amounts to is that over time anything exposed is going to get dull. I have done with and without topcoat and either turns out well. One Jeep I did over 10 years ago without topcoating still looks good (no signs of rust, it has dulled on the ends where it is exposed to the sun). Personally for a frame I would just put POR 15 without the topcoat, what I like about using it is that even though you put it on with a brush you can hardly tell.

Good Luck,
Paul

 

Frame off, two part automotive primer now. When I get through with all the details of the frame then I am going to use a two part automotive color coat on the frame. (purple-blue)

 

Here are a couple pictures of my frame. I had the frame acid dipped and powdercoated. It depends on what level or restoration your are looking to perform, and the how long you want your restoration to last.

Regarding preparations, many elect to sand blast their frames, however it doesn't remove the rust between the riveted components. Acid dipping is the only way to completely remove all rust and oil from between these sections. If I remember correctly, I paid right around $230 for the acid dipping. Depending on where you live, this may or may not be an option. Here in California, there are only two shops in the entire state left offering such services. I had to trailer my frame nearly 4 hours, round trip, to the nearest facility.

For paint, there are several options. This is where you don't want to pinch pennies. Stripping the vehicle to the frame is a lot of work, and you'll want you paint to last several decades. Starting at the low-cost end of the scale, Rustoluem semi-gloss pain will work. Make sure to use a metal etching primer first, otherwise it's all going to flake off over the years just like the factory paint. Moving up would be Eastwood's chassis black. They offer three versions of this paint, the ceramic version being the superior. I've never used the ceramic Chassis Black, but I've heard great reviews from those who have. The cost of having the epoxy paint professionally applied can also quickly add to the restoration cost. At the top end of the scale is powdercoating, which is what I elected to use. The durability of powdercoat far superior to anything else on the market. There are many myths about powdercoat, most of which are false. If performed by an experience shop, using the proper preparation steps, the coating will look exactly like epoxy paint once applied, and will not have the thick finish often associated with powdercoating. In the event the coating is damaged and chips, your powdercoater can supply a can of color-matched epoxy for touch-ups. Total cost to powdercoat my frame was $550.

You'll notice I didn't mention POR 15. I know I'm going to catch some feedback for this, but there is a reason I didn't mention the product. Using POR 15 is like installing a band-aid on your vehicle. The coating, even when applied at its best, is thick and really detracts from the restoration. The final texture, once applied, will depend on how much rust your painted over. When looking at a restored vehicle, I immediately can determine if POR 15 was used. For many, POR 15 fits their budget and restoration level.

Before acid dip.
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After acid dip.
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After powdercoat.

 

POR-15 thick? That's a new one to me.

I guess it's a good thing I'm not restoring my truck or the "band-aid" might just ruin the whole truck! My frame won't have any rust but I'm still using POR-15. I'm using it for prevention more then a cover up. But I guess I should forget it and spend almost $1000 making my frame look pretty. Just kidding! To me the POR-15 is just a very tough durable paint.

Powder coating is great but it's not for everyone. If it's in your budget it's awesome. If not there are other paints and coatings that can be applied and look good for a long time.

The prep work is as important if not more then your paint or coating. If the surface you are applying it to isn't smooth. Then the finish isn't going to be smooth.

 

I used Magnet Paints Chassis Saver Gloss Black. It is similar to POR-15 but a little cheaper.

I stripped everything down and used a wire wheel on my grinder, then painted on the Chassis Saver with a brush. You can check out the results in the pics on My Garage.

Very easy to use and I really like the results. Just as POR-15 it will fade in UV light if not top coated, but that is not a problem for me because this isn't going to be a show truck.

 

I used POR-15 after a wire wheel job....I have friends that have used John Deere Semi gloss...its more of a preservation thing to me as the only time this truck will be shown is at the beer store!

 

Thanks for the pics! Your frame looks great and unless I hear something really bad about POR 15 I'm going that route.

The powdercoating looks really good too but for my project that will be over kill. I'm on a budget and would rather put that $$ into somewhere that will be seen more. Don't get me wrong if I had the extra funds I would be considering it. From what I've seen with POR 15 so far it always looks really good. However I would love to see some pics of anyone that's had it on their daily driver for several years. To be honest I really haven't read very much "BAD" about the product other than the occasional bad experience which maybe related to not applying correctly.

 

Budget is my middle name

 

I like body color on the frame so I used PPG single stage, 96 Ford Rio Red and trimmed it with 96 Ford Bright Sapphire. Anything you put on there will eventually chip (if you drive) but colors look awesome, JMNSHO!

 

Canadian diesel,

Was wondering why you mounted your sway bar with the ears to the rear?

 

Thats a good question, I was told I could mount it either way...so I extended them out to the rear to see how it works.. It can be turned with ease and 4 holes...if you put them front ways they are quite close to the shocks as well..another good reason was that the instructions that came with the kit have them mounted to the rear also...thanx!!

 

I also used POR I think I used two quarts after wire brushing the frame