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1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Early Eighties Bullnose Ford Truck

will not fire

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Old Jan 15, 2011 | 10:00 PM
  #1  
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will not fire

Greetings,
am in need of help with my 1983 f250 4x4 5.8W M21 4spd
The truck was purchased from a buddy, and i have never heard it run, or even think about running...Truck turns over fine, had intermittent spark....

have replaced

coil
voltage regulator
ignition switch
ignition relay
EEC (unit on drivers fender)
Computer(under drivers seat)
magnetic crank pickup sensor (still shaking head)

i have 8volts at the coil in run, 12 on crank THERE IS NOTHING UNDER THE DIST CAP!!! no star, no points, no vacuum advance... NOTHING!!
this truck uses a "star" on the balancer, and a crankshaft position sensor....

Truck turns over fine, rotor turns fine, shorting test plug lead to ground and releasing does trigger coil to fire (sometimes). any help is greatly appreciated.

Thanks!
 
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Old Jan 15, 2011 | 10:14 PM
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I've seen that system. It was causing issues, so it went in the bin, and a standard DS2 ignition system went back in it's place. Been a few years, so I'm not 100% sure on the required steps.....


Of course, if you have to worry about emmission testing, this isn't really an option.
 
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Old Jan 15, 2011 | 10:24 PM
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No emissions, its a farm truck really... heck she dont even have any exhaust under her.... =)
i'm runing out of "normal options"
also have disconnected the neutral safety switch and she wont even turn over, ANY ideas i'd be willing to try
 
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Old Jan 16, 2011 | 10:36 AM
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Ok, so can somebody help me with a junkyard grocery list...
i would entertain the suggested "standard DS2 ignition system" swap.

Thanks!
 
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Old Jan 16, 2011 | 11:20 AM
  #5  
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Dizzy, coil, spark box and engine harness from a 351 of earlier vintage with the blue grommet DSII module.

The distributor shaft of a 302 is shorter and will not fit.

Don't really know what you'd need to jumper to get the computer working.
In fact I'd doubt you need it at all.

12V cranking and 8V run sounds right to me.
This keeps the coil cool but provides a hotter spark to start.

If you have spark, have you tried starting fluid?
Could just be a fuel issue, since it's been sitting so long.
 
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Old Jan 16, 2011 | 08:29 PM
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I have tried starting fluid, and no stumble or sputter at all.
I called the local parts depot, they have three options for less than 70 bucks.
your opinion please....
1. single vacuum no module
2. no vacuum, no module
3. dual vacuum no module
i'd just go get one and chunk it in, it has the original 2BBL, if i go vacuum, straight manifold, or where??
 
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Old Jan 16, 2011 | 08:47 PM
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you want the distributor with the single vacuum advance, the module that mounts to the drivers inner fender, the coil and the wiring that connects them together.
 
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Old Jan 17, 2011 | 05:53 AM
  #8  
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So, "had intermittent spark" was when?
 
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Old Jan 27, 2011 | 08:23 PM
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i found an article that was to test the coil, and associated wiring, you shorted out the test plug on the drivers finder, and held it to ground ~1 sec, and release... each time i'd let go, well... 1 out of 10 would light up the timing light...
 
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Old Jan 27, 2011 | 11:24 PM
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So, you always have power -to- the coil, but it only fires one out of ten times?
The coil should always fire when the field collapses.

I think your coil is faulty.
 
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Old Jan 28, 2011 | 06:21 AM
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I will not rule anything out at this point, i think there is three of them laying in the pile of parts on the floorboard....

i have followed this.. | Repair Guides | Dura Spark Electronic Ignition Systems | All Carbureted Engines | AutoZone.com

several times, and never really found any discrepancies. BUT, i will make time this weekend to try and go back through it again...

Thanks for following up! I cant wait to get her running!
 
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Old Jan 28, 2011 | 06:23 AM
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Try this one

nice, trashed link, sorry...

| Repair Guides | Dura Spark Electronic Ignition Systems | All Carbureted Engines | AutoZone.com
 

Last edited by ctubutis; Jan 28, 2011 at 07:26 AM. Reason: Fixed link
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