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Just got done with power steering conversion on a 69 F100 4speed with 360. When I get it up to highway speeds the steering wanders and I have to constantly correct the steering. Does anyone have any ideas what the problem might be? Alignment? Worn ball joints? Bad steering box? What is the typical cause of this problem? Thanxs
Just got done with power steering conversion on a 69 F100 4speed with 360. When I get it up to highway speeds the steering wanders and I have to constantly correct the steering. Does anyone have any ideas what the problem might be? Alignment? Worn ball joints? Bad steering box? What is the typical cause of this problem? Thanxs
Hmm, 2x4 or 4x4?
Integral box or ram assist?
New/rebuilt/used box?
Bias or radials?
Just a guess - Rag joint OK? Kingpins lubed and free moving?
what did you use for the conversion ? could be wrong type of box , drag linkage tie rods , bump steer , how many turns from lock to lock on the new box and the old box ?
69F100 is a 2 wheel drive. We used a Ford (not bendix) power steering unit. The power steering pump makes alot of winding noise. But, works great. I did get the parts out of a wrecking yard. The previous owner of the truck did not really put alot of money into maintenance. I found brake lines wrapped in tape, the power brake booster was dead and bypassed.
We replaced booster, clutch, resurfaced flywheel, rebuilt carb, replaced bushings on A-arms, new glass, removed rusted floor pans, recovered seats, and repainted body. Engine does not smoke, good power, 4 speed trans works well. Truck looks great, I just can't keep it straight at highway speeds. Steering feels loose. I have not aligned the truck. Thanxs for the input
Wuck, sorry forgot about tires. Radials, 275 70 series on back, 235 60 series on front. 4 turns lock to lock. Don't know what is was on old box. What's a rag joint? Thanks, sorry for the dumb questions.
Sounds like the pre-load on the box. There is a screw with a jam nut on the top of the box. Loosen the jam nut. Screw the screw in until you feel some resistance and then tighten down the jam nut. That did it for mine. I replaced EVERYTHING in the steering trying to avoid buying a box and then found out that was the cause of the wandering.
Wuck, sorry forgot about tires. Radials, 275 70 series on back, 235 60 series on front. 4 turns lock to lock. Don't know what is was on old box. What's a rag joint? Thanks, sorry for the dumb questions.
the rag joint is the piece that goes from the steering shaft to the steering box ! if they are warn out that can cause wondering lots of steering wheel play !
Its very likely that you may have got a worn gear box since it came out of a used vehicle. I would use that unit as a core and get a new one from Napa or similar.
"Rag Joint" is the flexible coupler on the steering shaft connection to the box. If the tire tread material is torn or oil-saturated, then the steering will have plenty of play as the connection then relies on a pair of backup pins to prevent disaster. New rag joint is about $50 complete, I've rebuilt them with a kit from NAPA or Doorman/Help! for about $10-$15.
Jack up one side, make sure you can get grease into the kingpins. If you can't then they are most likely pretty sticky. Use heat, rotation, wd40, pb blaster, whatever to try and get them to accept grease. It may take a few days depending on past maintenance. If you can't grease it, it's probably sticky, and will make things wander as the steering can't center itself.
You can try to adjust box preload (Big screw on top), but make sure you know how, too tight will break the box. The critical issue is to make sure the box is centered before adjusting as it is designed to loosen as you move off center.
Both my old trucks wandered after switching to radials. I suspect a good alignment shop can fix that, but haven't got around to it yet Talk to them, make sure they know what's going on.
Sounds like the pre-load on the box. There is a screw with a jam nut on the top of the box. Loosen the jam nut. Screw the screw in until you feel some resistance and then tighten down the jam nut. That did it for mine. I replaced EVERYTHING in the steering trying to avoid buying a box and then found out that was the cause of the wandering.
This is the cheapest and fastest way to destroy a steering box. FIRST, make sure all the steering linkage is good and tight, and the kingpins are good, as well as suspension bushings. Check the rag joint (you would have seen if it was bad installing the new parts), have someone turn the steering wheel back and forth while you watch the linkage to check for play in the box as well. If you have more than about 3/4" of travel at the steering wheel rim without movement of the pitman arm, then the box is worn. Check it again near lock, and if the play is the same, adjust the box. If the play is reduced, the box is worn and adjusting it in the center position will cause damage and possibly loss of steering ability the further you turn it. After this stuff is all checked out, have it aligned.
The power steering in these trucks is also very light, and does tend to wander if the alignment is slightly off. That is one thing they really got right with the 80s trucks, a lot of that disconnected floaty feel is gone in them. It may be possible to fine tune the feel of the boost, but that's a whole other situation.
Jowilker,Wuck, and Ford Six, thank you for the info. My mechanic friend looked at the king pins, and wheel bearing, the king pins were good and wheel bearing were in good shape too. We tried adjusting the box, but it made little difference. I believe the box came from a mid 70's truck. I am not sure about the condition of the rag joint. I will attempt to check it as per your suggestion. Lucas power steering fluid is a great idea, thanks.
Is this significant? When you turn the steering wheel, it will not return to center while driving. You must bring it back to center. And you guys are right, it does have a very light floating feel to the steering. How much does a new or rebuilt box cost? It is it dangerous to use a worn used one? Should I invest in getting it aligned before I spend money on a new steering box? Thanks for all the help!
Toe setting on these trucks with radials should be .03". Rebuilt boxes are not that expensive, just be careful as some remans aren't as good as others. I'm not so sure about a used one being "dangerous" but I generally shy away from them because you just don't know what you've got. You did good by obtaining one though because if you do get a reman you'll need a core. Good luck.
A good first step is a visual inspection. Have someone sit in the truck and rock the wheel back and forth while you look at the system starting at the rag joint at the top of the box and then making sure the box is bolted securely to the frame, then look at each tie rod end to make sure it isn't worn. Did the stock tie rod end fit properly into the newer pittman arm, there may be some size differences between the manual and power setups.
Work your way out to the wheels and look at those rod ends. You say you replaced the bushings on the A arms, how about the bushings on the ends of the I beams?
The last thing is to jack the truck up so 1 tire is just off the ground and using a large pry bar put some pressure on the outter edge of the tire rocking it back & forth while you look underneath to see if the kingpins and/or wheel bearings are tight. Do both sides using this method.
Any slop anywhere, just a small amount, will cause the wandering.
Lots of good stuff in here. But before you go all apeschnit make sure to check your ball joints. Worn ball joints make for wandering. Just lay under there and have someone move the steering. Takes a couple minutes.
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