head lights issue
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Freshman User
Joined: Oct 2010
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head lights issue
hello
sunday i changed my head lights that needed to be changed cause of low lighting and the headlights started shutting off in low beem, but worked in high beem. I put the new lights in worked great for 4 nights then last night did the same thing again what could be causing this???
sunday i changed my head lights that needed to be changed cause of low lighting and the headlights started shutting off in low beem, but worked in high beem. I put the new lights in worked great for 4 nights then last night did the same thing again what could be causing this???
Moderator
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 7,987
Likes: 104
From: Boise, Idaho
I had this issue and it ended up being my headlight switch. New switch a few years ago and it never came happened again. Headlights shutting off in the middle of the night in the middle of nowhere....sucks.
1978-1979 Ford Bronco Headlight Switch - Replacement - OE replacement
1978-1979 Ford Bronco Headlight Switch - Replacement - OE replacement
Cargo Master
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 2,474
Likes: 24
From: ME
That usually happens when your headlight switch is overheating.You may need a new switch or you may want to put a relay in the system to keep from overheating the h/l switch.You could probably install a relay yourself or there are plug and play relay kits like this > RJM Injection Tech » Headlight Harness .
Moderator
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 7,987
Likes: 104
From: Boise, Idaho
Awesome. 
The biggest pain you'll probably have in swapping out the switch is getting the ***** off of the headlight and windshield washer switch (since they have to be removed to get the dash panel off).
If you've never done it before, there's a small tab inside that needs to be pressed to release them. You'll see a small groove in the rim around the back of the ****, which is an alignment mark for where the tab is. I usually use a small hook or hex wrench to reach up into the **** and press it to slide the **** off.
The biggest pain you'll probably have in swapping out the switch is getting the ***** off of the headlight and windshield washer switch (since they have to be removed to get the dash panel off).
If you've never done it before, there's a small tab inside that needs to be pressed to release them. You'll see a small groove in the rim around the back of the ****, which is an alignment mark for where the tab is. I usually use a small hook or hex wrench to reach up into the **** and press it to slide the **** off.
Lead Driver
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 9,182
Likes: 12
From: Gateway to the West
The real concern will come if a NEW headlamp switch behaves the same way the old one did. If it does, your problem is not in the switch but in the wiring between it and the headlamps.
Moderator
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 7,987
Likes: 104
From: Boise, Idaho
Makes sense, although I think since his headlights go in and out, but the highbeams stay on, that points to the switch. Aren't they on two different internal circuits on the switch? Meaning, one may be getting weak (headlights) and the other not so much (high beams). Can't remember if that's accurate or not.
I remember when I had this issue it was rather frustrating because whenever a car would pass, I had to turn my highbeams off, which would result in NO headlights and freak the other driver out.
I remember when I had this issue it was rather frustrating because whenever a car would pass, I had to turn my highbeams off, which would result in NO headlights and freak the other driver out.
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Lead Driver
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 9,182
Likes: 12
From: Gateway to the West
Hehehe, yeah I've seen that happen too. Usually one of the contacts in the connector for the switch begins to get loose and arcing begins (typically on the low-beam portion of the circuit since its on more). This results in either a loss of one set of lamp filaments or the CB overheats and trips. I missed the part about not losing the high beams. The CB protects both high and low beam circuits since these two circuits are an either/or setup and both filaments are not energized at the same time.
bronco power 79, take a good look at the connector for the headlight switch before you put the new one in. If there is any sign of arcing or the connector has melted anywhere, replace it as well.
bronco power 79, take a good look at the connector for the headlight switch before you put the new one in. If there is any sign of arcing or the connector has melted anywhere, replace it as well.
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Freshman User
Joined: Oct 2010
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thanks
for all the info i will check
i just thought about how im going to get the wiper switch off and looked and seen your post thanks
headlight **** comes off since i bought the bronco
Is it worth upgrading electrical systems in these trucks??? in the future?? What are the benifits?? other than this i have had no problems with the bronco, and looks like there was no wire hacking from the previous owner and family just seams when people are restoring older cars now they are rewiring there trucks
for all the info i will check
i just thought about how im going to get the wiper switch off and looked and seen your post thanks
headlight **** comes off since i bought the bronco
Is it worth upgrading electrical systems in these trucks??? in the future?? What are the benifits?? other than this i have had no problems with the bronco, and looks like there was no wire hacking from the previous owner and family just seams when people are restoring older cars now they are rewiring there trucks
The Southernmost Mod
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 6,902
Likes: 21
From: Caracas, Venezuela
Well, my headlights also used to burn the low beam filaments. As they were very shady and old i replaced them with OEM parts. I used grey silicone to provide a better seal to all the edges and mounted them, i haven't had any other issues from them.
Lead Driver
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 9,182
Likes: 12
From: Gateway to the West
What kind of upgrades are you suggesting? Higher amperage alternators are about the only thing you can do. The key to keeping the electrical system functioning well is to combat heat. Heat kills anything electrical, period. Keeping heat away involves the simple maintenance tasks of tightening cable clamps and terminals periodically and keeping the most effective resistor in the world from growing on them... corrosion... rust, scale, etc.
Freshman User
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 43
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From: oh
Try to check your ground wires, or add one i had the same issue.. so then i added a 4 gage wire on motor to frame, and made the ground wire that goes to my body to my motor a 12 gage and my headlights are as bright as brand new. I haven't ever really had any problems with my headlight switch "overheating" if you have that you may have a wire shortage somewhere in the harness that wires your lights up.
Senior User
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 292
Likes: 3
Power distribution comes from battery to headlamp switch thru the breaker in the switch then to the dimmer switch on the floor . The dimmer switch on the floor acts like a Y and sends power from there to either the high or low beams but not both at the same time. If the breaker in the switch were bad it should affect both high and low beams and actually the high beams should be more problematic due to their slightly higher amp draw.
Lead Driver
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 9,182
Likes: 12
From: Gateway to the West
One would think so but an old circuit breaker gets weak enough to drop any amperage load in time and the low beam circuit is in use far more often and for greater lengths of time. Sustained loads are more likely to generate heat at weak points in the circuit. Assuming the older headlamp circuits are wired as you stated, then the problem as he described it, would rule out the main light switch and make the beam select switch the more likely culprit.
