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JMO, headers on a working engine are a "bragging rights" item and not worth fighting the fitment, loosening and breakage inherent with the headers.
And just because one uses a bigger cam does not of necessity mean that anything including torque is lost. The peak torque point on a relatively flat curved cam is pretty much irrelevant. Torque over the whole working rpm of the engine is relevant and an upper end RV type cam can increase overall torque throughout the whole band from idle on up even though the "peak" is moved up in the rpm band.
No dyno due to cost. It is not a very radical build, but I like it.
As fas as the headers loosening up, I've had oem exh. manifolds that would lead too. Since I installed my Hedman header, with studs and grade 8 crimp nuts, I ran it, cooled, retorqued in sequence twice after install, and have not had a problem in over a year. I will say, though, that the engine compartment is hotter with the header. Also, the sealed in starter does bother me.
Thanks, guys. I'm sure there is a mini starter for the 4.9. As with most things, it is just a matter of money. Ceramic coating would surely alleviate the prob of heat. But again, bankers just don't have any imagination!
I'm trying to lasso myself in with the spending. In the last two years I've dropped well over 10K on the engine alone ... well, two of them, actually, but I'm trying to pretend that the first one never happened. I know that amount seems exaggerated, but it is not. When you change sizes/types, everything changes! I too was shocked, but the receipts were there before me. It is amazing, as I'm sure you both know, how quickly the little stuff adds up.
Of course when I saw how much I'd spent, I had to go out and get an aluminum rad., disc brakes, and hydroboost to take my mind off the financial outlay. LOL.
But now I'm laying low, saving $ for the ZF trans. I think one of the reasons it doesn't impress me is because with the C6 I just can't wind the gear out a bit, and I don't have a kickdown.
I am really liking the 252 cam and high compression on the latest 300 I built, it's got tons of low to mid-range power plus when you get towards the top end it slows gradually, instead of just dying off. That's still running stock intake, carb and exhaust too so once I am able to open it up it should do a whole lot better.
Be careful about exhaust size- I went from 2" duals to a 3" single on my last 300 build, and lost the low end torque.
Well FWIW the Iskenderian Mil-A-Mor cam has less duration and overlap than the stock cam - so if it's pulling power you want go with the Mil-A-Mor. She'd probably give out over 4,000 with that DP manifold, though.
For that matter, if you can find an adjustable timing set just advance the stock cam 6 or 8 degrees and put on some 1.7 rockers. Not as good as a new cam but it would give you a nice kick in the pants for a couple of hundred bucks less.
This is exactly the type of information I was looking for, thanks a ton guys!
Baron I like that idea, well the both of them. Just wondering how the rockers/adjustable set would work out with the setup I linked to in the first post. I suppose it would all come out the same...
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