FICM???
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Senior User
Joined: May 2005
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From: Ethridge, TN
FICM???
My 2004 truck will not start today. It started fine this morning and will not re-start at work. When I turned the key on and waited on the glow plug indicator, the alternator light came on. The truck cranked and hit one time then stopped. I tried to restart several times but it will not start. The batteries were strong at first and have started to run down. They are about 1-1/2 year old Interstates. I unplugged the ICP, but when I did this the engine will not turn over at all. I reconnected the ICP and it would turn over again. This confuses me, shouldn't the truck crank with the ICP disconnected? I replaced the IPR yesterday because it would not start. It had a 2005 IPR installed by mistake. After replacing the IPR, I drove it all day with about 10-12 restarts. Could the alternator have damaged the FICM? Looks like I am going to have it towed home.
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Senior User
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From: Ethridge, TN
Update - I tried to re-start the truck. It turned over fairly fast, but would not start. A co-worker has a Duramax (he enjoyed this) that we used to jump-start the truck. As soon as we connected the jumper cables, it started right up. Sounds like alternator or batteries? I'm own the way home now, not taking any chances with re-starting.
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Senior User
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From: Ethridge, TN
The alternator is outputting 14.1 volts and 91 amps. I'll charge the batteries independently and have them load tested. I just don't have a good feeling that is the issue. I will check cables and connections at the same time. The truck started fine at my plant on-site. I drove it about 1.5 miles to another plant on-site, shut it off and them it would not re-start 10 minutes later. I don't want to perform the FICM repair yet, I would rather isolate one part at a time.
Post Fiend
Joined: Jul 2005
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That is good output.. at what RPM? 1270s watt, or roughly 100amps.
If batteries check out... then it is time for FICM.
Remember.. you must reflash to eliminate that problem before you can conclusively test voltage.
But you can go ahead and test voltage --- just don't think it is FICM unless the test is verified after it is reflashed.
If batteries check out... then it is time for FICM.
Remember.. you must reflash to eliminate that problem before you can conclusively test voltage.
But you can go ahead and test voltage --- just don't think it is FICM unless the test is verified after it is reflashed.
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Senior User
Joined: May 2005
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From: Ethridge, TN
Here's my FICM voltages;
Key on Engine Off: 47.7 - 47.9 volts
Initial Buzz: starts at 20.6 for a couple of seconds then goes to 47.6
Cranking: 48.0 initially then goes to 30.0 for a second then back up to 48.0
What do you think??
Key on Engine Off: 47.7 - 47.9 volts
Initial Buzz: starts at 20.6 for a couple of seconds then goes to 47.6
Cranking: 48.0 initially then goes to 30.0 for a second then back up to 48.0
What do you think??
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Post Fiend
Joined: Jul 2005
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Someone else need to come in... but aren't the voltages suppose to never go below 45V?
Check the TSB.. you may be a candidate for a repair.
Check the TSB.. you may be a candidate for a repair.
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Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: May 2005
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From: Ethridge, TN
Thanks for your help Gearloose1. I have a copy of the repair proceedure that was written by a fellow FTE member. It states anything above 45 is okay, I'm not sure that momentary voltage drops are acceptable. I'll look for the tech bulletin.
Post Fiend
Joined: Jul 2005
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I am uneasy over the dip in voltage --- that is what you would expect of a cracked solder joint making intermittent contact, but again, let someone else come and talk to this.
Have you tested the ground?
A few people hooked a ground wire to the FICM to chassis, and the problems went away.
e.g. a harness ground fault...
Have you tested the ground?
A few people hooked a ground wire to the FICM to chassis, and the problems went away.
e.g. a harness ground fault...
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Senior User
Joined: May 2005
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From: Ethridge, TN
I've got the FICM remove and dismantled. Is there any secret to removing the amber sealant? I've tried a blow drier, but it doesnt seem to melt it or maybe I'm too impatient!
If I need a FICM, sounds like everyone recommends a Ford reman??
If I need a FICM, sounds like everyone recommends a Ford reman??
Fleet Owner
Joined: Nov 2003
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I do not hesitate to recommend SWAMPS, but now they will not take a FICM if it has been tampered with (they require yours sent to them as a core). I certainly agree with you that the Ford remanufactured FICMS are the way to go if you can afford it. You should look into TousleyFordParts prices, but you will have to wait for the delivery since it is an internet purchase. They generally have about the lowest prices on Ford parts that I have seen.