When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I own a 1981 F100 4.9 I6 with a newly rebuilt 1bbl. carb. Ever since I had the carb rebuilt, it idles a little fast when warmed up. The real issue is that it takes a lot of cranking in the morning to start (especially now since it's bitter cold). I do smell a little fuel on startup. It will crank and crank for about 20 sec., then maybe try to catch a couple times, then finally catch if I crank a little more and force it. I've been told it could be timing, but I wonder if there might be another solution. I have a manual choke which I've tried opened and closed and can't tell if either setting helps. Any suggestions?
For starters, since you have a manual choke, I'd figure out right where you want to put it for cold starting.
Take the air cleaner off and adjust the choke so that the choke plate on top is only open about 1/8" - 1/16". That'll be where you want it to start in the morning. Then, obviously, open it up as/when the truck warms up.
Do you have a vacuum gauge? If so, you can use one to be sure that your timing and your idle air/fuel mixture are correct, which should help a lot with cold startups.
Lastly, its possible something wasn't tightened right, warped, torn gasket, etc. that could be causing an internal fuel leak as it sits, and when you go to start it in the morning, it's already flooded.
Yes, I'll check those. I don't have a vacuum gauge, unfortunately, but I can check the timing and I already want to slow down the idle. I'll re-check the idle mixture also and I'll check the carb for tightness and gaskets as well.
BTW, I used to live in Boise. I really liked it, nice town. I used to live in Old Boise across from the Hollywood market.
I'd definitely recommend a vacuum gauge if you plan on doing any of your own tuning, they're invaluable, and not too expensive. You can tune your fuel mixture, idle mixture, and your timing perfectly with one. No guessing.
The idle RPM speed is controlled by two screws on the back of the carb (hard to reach when its on). The one that presses directly against the carb body is the normal idle, and the one that presses against moving linkage is the cold start idle. You want the cold start one adjusted so that it sits around 1500 RPMs when the engine's cold, and the other at around 700 when the engine's warmed up. (Not sure if you have a tachometer.)
I know the area you mean, quite the opposite end of town than me. A nice area though. Boise's great. Has the options of a big city, with the small town feel.
After experimenting with my startup procedure, things are going much better, but still not perfect. I am more careful with setting the choke, pump it a few times before turning the key, and hold in the clutch until the engine runs for a minute or two (the clutch thing was making it die in the extreme cold at first). It will catch right away but die and I have to try a few times. After I make some more adjustments, it should start like it used to.
BTW, how do you get those cool signature notes at the bottom of your posts, if you don't mine me asking?
Last edited by krazeyelf; Jan 12, 2011 at 12:08 PM.
Reason: wanted to add a question
It's amazing what the proper adjustments for cold weather can do. Before I did any on mine, it was a nightmare to get started in the winter. I'd have to start it about five times or so before it would finally run longer than 5 seconds, and then once it finally did, I had to brace the gas pedal with a long ice scraper to keep it running for a good ten minutes so it would warm up. If not, it'd die every time I let the clutch out.
After I adjusted the choke, cold idle, etc. properly, it'd start with the first turn of the key, idle on its own, and was driveable immediately.
I think I'll invest in a timing light that has a built-in tach; I think they make such a thing. Some day, possibly this summer when it's warmer, I'd like to install a dash-mount tach.
So, I have to ask, how does a vacuum gauge help to set fuel mixture, idle mixture, and timing, and how does one do that?
Unplug the vacuum line running to the distributor and plug it. Attach the vacuum gauge to a full manifold vacuum source. With the engine running, turn the dizzy one way or the other until the highest steady reading on the gauge is obtained and back off 1-2hg. Lock down the distributor. Do the same with the idle mixture screw to obtain the highest steady reading. Adjust the idle speed screw. Go back and forth between the idle mix and speed screws always adjusting to the highest steady vac reading. Hook up the distributor vac line, drive and try. Make sure the engine is fully warmed up before you start the adjustments.
Well, I got the procedure down as good as I'm going to get it. Got her to start on first turn this morning. Still plan to do the tuning when I can get the tools and the time together.
The only other real issue I notice now is at highway speed when under load, when I really get into it she comes almost to the brink of bogging down. It never really bogs down, but it starts a sort of "rhythmic vibration" which never happened before when I got into it at high speed under a load, and doesn't really do much for keeping her up to speed. I'm guessing tuning will fix this as well as possibly changing plugs and wires, but I wanted to throw this out in case you fellas have any thoughts.
P. S. Thank you for the vacuum gauge tuning procedures.
As for the bogging, that's difficult to say. When was the last time it had new plugs, wires, cap, rotor, etc? I would say if its been a while, give it a fresh tuneup and then tune it with the vacuum gauge. If after all that it still bogs, then you at least you know you've eliminated a lot of variables.
Yep, a tune-up (plugs, wires, cap, rotor, oil, filter) is my next planned "project." I'll let you all know what effect that has. I'm not sure when the last time it was done, definitely not since I bought her back in September. It's probably about time.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.