Another 6.0 Hard Start/Rough Idle Thread
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Tuned
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 429
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Another 6.0 Hard Start/Rough Idle Thread
Hello all:<O
</O
<O</O
I'm sorry to post another thread on this, but I've tried reading through the many other posts and still can't determine what my problem might be. I have a 2007 6.0L with just over 53K miles that I've owned since new. Just recently, I started noticing that it was taking longer (several seconds) on the starter to get the engine to fire. I've never had any issues in the past. Based on everything I've been able to find on this forum, here are some facts that may be useful:<O</O
<O</O
- New batteries (replaced by the dealer about three months ago)<O</O
- FICM voltage is 48+ volts with key on, cranking, and running<O</O
- Rough idle lasts about 30-60 seconds, then smooths right out<O</O
- Oil change, fuel filter change, trans service about 1000 miles ago<O</O
- No unusual smoke during rough idle at start-up<O</O
- Air temps don't seem to matter (problem occurs at 50+ degrees or -5 degrees)
- Truck is garaged at night and block heater plugged in when temps are below 30 degrees<O</O
- No codes showing up with my OBD2 scanner<O</O
<O</O
I'm not a mechanic, so my ability to test components is pretty limited. The FICM test procedure that I found posted here was about the extent of my comfort zone. I'd like to try to correct the problem without paying the dealer $120/hour if possible. If I do need to have the dealer look at it, I'd like to at least know what to expect before I go in.
<O</OThanks in advance for the help.
<O</ODave<O</O
</O<O
</OI'm sorry to post another thread on this, but I've tried reading through the many other posts and still can't determine what my problem might be. I have a 2007 6.0L with just over 53K miles that I've owned since new. Just recently, I started noticing that it was taking longer (several seconds) on the starter to get the engine to fire. I've never had any issues in the past. Based on everything I've been able to find on this forum, here are some facts that may be useful:<O
</O<O
</O- New batteries (replaced by the dealer about three months ago)<O
</O- FICM voltage is 48+ volts with key on, cranking, and running<O
</O- Rough idle lasts about 30-60 seconds, then smooths right out<O
</O- Oil change, fuel filter change, trans service about 1000 miles ago<O
</O- No unusual smoke during rough idle at start-up<O
</O- Air temps don't seem to matter (problem occurs at 50+ degrees or -5 degrees)
- Truck is garaged at night and block heater plugged in when temps are below 30 degrees<O
</O- No codes showing up with my OBD2 scanner<O
</O<O
</OI'm not a mechanic, so my ability to test components is pretty limited. The FICM test procedure that I found posted here was about the extent of my comfort zone. I'd like to try to correct the problem without paying the dealer $120/hour if possible. If I do need to have the dealer look at it, I'd like to at least know what to expect before I go in.
<O
</OThanks in advance for the help.<O
</ODave<O</O
Thread Starter
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Tuned
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 429
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Only one type of fuel available in the Denver area, and I fill up at the same place every time (Vallero Station, not a truck stop).
No additives in use right now. When I know the temps will drop below 0, I use Diesel 911 (one quart in a full tank of fuel).
Post Fiend
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 6,127
Likes: 6
1. It is a warranty issue, so get it back to them.
2. Request reflash to latest flash.
3. Oil should be 5w-40 synth CJ-4 where you are.
4. Too much diesel 912..
Try using Ford cetane boost instead.
5. Most probable...
You need a EGR cleaning.. and possibly a new EGR valve likely... have to see..
Have them check EOT/ECT for spread, and if needs be replace both oil and egr cooler.
Are you losing coolant?
FICM... that is not servicable by you... let them do it under warranty.
2. Request reflash to latest flash.
3. Oil should be 5w-40 synth CJ-4 where you are.
4. Too much diesel 912..
Try using Ford cetane boost instead.
5. Most probable...
You need a EGR cleaning.. and possibly a new EGR valve likely... have to see..
Have them check EOT/ECT for spread, and if needs be replace both oil and egr cooler.
Are you losing coolant?
FICM... that is not servicable by you... let them do it under warranty.
Thread Starter
|
Tuned
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 429
Likes: 0
1. It is a warranty issue, so get it back to them.
2. Request reflash to latest flash.
3. Oil should be 5w-40 synth CJ-4 where you are.
4. Too much diesel 912..
Try using Ford cetane boost instead.
5. Most probable...
You need a EGR cleaning.. and possibly a new EGR valve likely... have to see..
Have them check EOT/ECT for spread, and if needs be replace both oil and egr cooler.
Are you losing coolant?
FICM... that is not servicable by you... let them do it under warranty.
2. Request reflash to latest flash.
3. Oil should be 5w-40 synth CJ-4 where you are.
4. Too much diesel 912..
Try using Ford cetane boost instead.
5. Most probable...
You need a EGR cleaning.. and possibly a new EGR valve likely... have to see..
Have them check EOT/ECT for spread, and if needs be replace both oil and egr cooler.
Are you losing coolant?
FICM... that is not servicable by you... let them do it under warranty.
I'm no longer covered by warranty other than the 5yr/100K mile powertrain warranty. I dug out my last service invoice, and it looks like the dealer used 15W40 oil. Should I try going to a lighter weight before assuming something else is wrong? I haven't run any 911 in the truck since one bottle last year. I'll get some of the Ford cetane boost this week. Is the EGR something that I can change myself (how difficult a job is it)? I'm not loosing any coolant and the only thing I can see in the way of any leaks is a bit of oil on the back side of the engine, which is just enough to see, but not dripping at all. The reason I checked the voltage on the FICM is because the symptoms seemed to match what I was reading as a common problem. Since the voltage checked out, I'm hopefull that I've eliminated the FICM as the source of the problem (unless the flash is somehow bad -- I'll ask the dealer to reflash with the latest program if I need to take the truck in).
Thanks,
Dave
Posting Guru
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 1,246
Likes: 3
starting your 6.0
your on the right road so far.my 03 6.0 will start at 25 below,with 193,000 miles 2new 875 motorcraft batts. new starter (not rebuilt),i use power service ,silver cetane booster (4.0s per tank,and 4.0zs of wally world tech 3 ashless 2 stroke oil and 5 gallons of hess clear kero. my 02 and it runs great.
Thread Starter
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Tuned
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 429
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Okay -- did a little searching on the EGR and found a thread that suggests to simply unplug it. I did this, and stll experienced a hard start, but no rough idle (maybe the truck hadn't sat long enough to induce the rough idle problem). Check engine light came on and a scan showed the following codes:
P0204 - Injector Circuit/Open - Cylinder 4
P0304 - Cylinder 4 Misfire Detected
Plus the following pending codes:
P0403 - Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) Control Circuit
P0405 - Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) Sensor A Circuit Low
So, the EGR codes make sense, but I'm wondering if the Cylinder 4 codes may be my actual problem?
Any thoughts? Would a single bad injector cause a hard start condition?
P0204 - Injector Circuit/Open - Cylinder 4
P0304 - Cylinder 4 Misfire Detected
Plus the following pending codes:
P0403 - Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) Control Circuit
P0405 - Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) Sensor A Circuit Low
So, the EGR codes make sense, but I'm wondering if the Cylinder 4 codes may be my actual problem?
Any thoughts? Would a single bad injector cause a hard start condition?
Trending Topics
Post Fiend
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 6,127
Likes: 6
EGR is emissions.. so is injectors.. don't mess with it.. take it back to dealer it is warranted.
So is turbo.
So is turbo.
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Thread Starter
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Tuned
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 429
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Thanks for the advice -- took the truck to the dealer and they determined the FICM was the culprit, even though when I checked it the voltage was fine. The dealer measured 35 volts and replaced the halfshell. They also found a leaking HP oil rail plug and replaced it. Total bill was just over $1121.00 -- all covered by warranty. 
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