I had a oil leak coming from the top rear, so I pulled my turbo and pedestal out. It is leaking out of the rod coming out the side. I kno this means I need a pedestal, does this mean it is a ebv or non-ebv?

I looked at my turbo wheel and the edges are a little tore up, so I'm ordering a wicked wheel.

While I have the turbo out is there anything else I should check/replace while she is tore apart? Thanks in advance!

-jesse

 

If you still have the rod that is stock and no one has messed with it. You can get a non ebpv pedistal or gut the one you have. Then get rid of the flap on the outlet of the turbo. If you plan on using it as an exhaust break then get the rebuild kit From Riffraff or DieselOrings I think also has it. If the sides of the bore are scorned you could still have a leak after rebuilding it. If you want to gut it I can give you a couple of links to help.

 

Here's some options Riffraff Diesel: Turbo Pedestal Here's the wheel Riffraff Diesel: Anti-Surge Compressor Wheel and reinstall kit. Riffraff Diesel: Turbo Re-Install Kit - GTP38

 

I think I am going to put a new pedestal on and rip out the flange inside the turbo.. Just not sure how yet..

Come to findout pedestals are on backorder

 

I gutted mine. Saves a few $$ and you don't see it anyway.

 

If you are going to gut it here are a couple of links:


http://www.thedieselstop.com/faq/949...s/gutebpv.php3

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/8...-pedestal.html

Clay sells a non ebpv pedestal if you don't want to mess with it.

 

I just decided to order a non-ebv pedestal ($149.00) and a wicked wheel ($89.00). And also went ahead took the exhaust flap out of the turbo. Had to order a 20mm freeze plug @ orilleys.

Now just waiting on parts!

 

Just another train of thought, not trying to sway your decision; but you could take the money you'd spend on a WW and pedestal and put it toward a ATS ported compressor housing. Then you'll be all set if you add a tuner of some sort. And if you're not going to add a tuner (or maybe you have one that's not in your sig) then going with a WW would sort of be step backwards.

 

I have gauges here to put on and my dp tuner is on the way, just ordered it today.

But what you are saying is that a wicked wheel will be a step backwards for me?

 

Only if you weren't going to add some tuning to it.

Whether a WW is less efficient than the stock wheel is beyond my pedigree and is arguable. I chose to keep the stock wheel and go with an ATS housing so I knew any surge would be completely eliminated and I wouldn't lose any efficiency.

 

Oh ok I understand what your saying now.. Well my stock wheel looked a little rough, so I decided to replace. Not with anything to do with a surge. I am just doing it to do it. Lol thanks for your opinion!

 

I see what Keith is saying and now his point is even more evident and now we know your adding some potent tunes to the mix it might be in your best interest to go with the ported housing. Its all personal choice or what your wallet dictates.

 

So if I'm right I need a 1/4" NPT plug for the pedestal and a 20mm freeze plug for the turbine side of the housing, right?

 

Yes, You can also use a 3/4 inch freeze plug. I got a deep one from napa.

 

I got this one today: Dorman Products - 555-012

Should work fine, I'd say.