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Old Jan 9, 2011 | 10:38 AM
  #16  
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dagren99
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I bought front pads from Napa a few years back - the tabs that slide on the caliper spring clips were too wide causing the pass side to stick resulting in a bad pull to the right while braking. Ended up having to replace the pads again. Went with Wagner Ceram - been happy ever since
 
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Old Jan 9, 2011 | 11:24 AM
  #17  
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DavidE
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I got 87000 mi on my original Motorcraft fronts before I changed them. Had OEM pads again as a result of service life of originals. I've 90,000 mi on my rears and still going. I know Ed would be happy to give you a quote!
 
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Old Jan 9, 2011 | 06:22 PM
  #18  
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PwerStroke99
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I just did front pads, easy job. Make sure you have a caliper compressing tool, makes life easier. also, get some slide pin grease and grease the heck out of them.
 
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Old Jan 9, 2011 | 08:03 PM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by PwerStroke99
Make sure you have a caliper compressing tool,
I use a c-clamp, like this one.


Pete has a quick release like this one that I'd like to have.


Stewart
 
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Old Jan 9, 2011 | 10:13 PM
  #20  
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Thanks for the help guys...and the instructions. I'm gonna go the the motorcrafts.
 
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Old Jan 10, 2011 | 10:57 AM
  #21  
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Parts Guy Wyatt
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my site does not look up Motorcraft parts very well. use the contact us link and i'll send the Motorcraft part number and link to you.
 
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Old Jan 10, 2011 | 01:49 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by SGnAZ
Thanks...I sent them an email on their front and rear...looks like they are out for the moment.

Where did everyone get their EBC pads at...anyone know what size are our rotors on our trucks too?
 
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Old Jan 10, 2011 | 01:50 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by mechelement
Step by step instructions...just what I was looking for. Thanks
 
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Old Jan 10, 2011 | 03:02 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by 95Z71
Step by step instructions...just what I was looking for. Thanks
Those instructions are good until the part( or lack of ) about removing the rear rotors. Make sure you have a BFG lying around or get a big *** Puller like i did and it worked great.
 
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Old Jan 10, 2011 | 03:45 PM
  #25  
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If you coat the back of the new rotors where they contact the hub w/ a thin film of anti-sieze they'll be easy to get off next time. I know all about the "BFG" req - one of my fronts required a bit of "persuasion" to get it to come off
 
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Old Jan 10, 2011 | 04:03 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by 95Z71
Thanks...I sent them an email on their front and rear...looks like they are out for the moment.

Where did everyone get their EBC pads at...anyone know what size are our rotors on our trucks too?
I just ordered mine from autopartswarehouse.com I read in a thread that they are affiliated with one of our sponsors? Ordered on Thursday night. They sent a tracking number Friday late afternoon but tracking doesn't show that they have been picked up by Fedex yet. Price for the pair was the same as ebay and a few other places.
 
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Old Jan 10, 2011 | 04:49 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by dagren99
If you coat the back of the new rotors where they contact the hub w/ a thin film of anti-sieze they'll be easy to get off next time. I know all about the "BFG" req - one of my fronts required a bit of "persuasion" to get it to come off
The issue is on the rears. Those " in-the-hat" parking brake shoes routinely hang up even when you back them off so sometimes they need some help.
 
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Old Mar 27, 2011 | 03:05 AM
  #28  
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Anyone know what size are our rotors? I was under the assumption there are different size out there, or even the correct part number for OEM rotors. Thanks
 
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Old Mar 27, 2011 | 03:43 AM
  #29  
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Removing brake drums?

It will take some heat "most times"! As it did for my 1982 Ford !
 
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Old Mar 30, 2011 | 09:15 PM
  #30  
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Where do you guys suggest jacking the truck up, under the pumkin?
 
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