Originally Posted by OrFordGuy

ya if you make sure its the dana 50 ttb and not the odd dana 51 or a 44 hd ttb...the tag on the front axle should help with that... the 44hd ttb parts may work i just don't know didn't use it....and i'd look for the 6 screw hubs instead of the 3 screw that came on some axles....more clamping force..or use the ones off your current truck...

Originally Posted by OrFordGuy

Tools required for this will be as follows..
2 lb. short handled (8-10") sledge/blacksmith type hammer
snap ring plier set
basic pick set
1/2" or 3/8" socket set (iumpact gun and compressor will help)
dana 44 hub spindle nut socket
set of standard flare nut wrenches
pliers
couple pair small vice grips
allen head set or torx head set, I prefer the socket style rather than the single hand helds or the multi tool sets....
large and small straight blade screw drivers
small drift pin aprox 3/8"diam..
couple small pry bars 12-18" work well
the obvoius jack and jack stands
breaker bar 18" prefer 1/2" drive

The following prossess works on the donor vehical and conversion vehical...
step 1- jack up and support one side of vehical. Remove lugnuts and tire..
step 2- Remove bolt from brake line on caliper..Remove frame braket clip from line, unscrew and remove line.. line will drain fluid, please remember to collect fluid in something and not let it drain onto the ground.
Remove the bolt retaining the spring clip. use drift and drive out spring clips from between caliper and caliper bracket on the bottom...remove caliper and set aside...
step 3- Remove the hex screws holding on the selecter cap of the hub. i prefer to use the star bits and the one slightly larger than the hex head..I tap it into the screw and then unscrew the screws...
I find star bits don't strip like the hex heads sometimes do espescially on trucks wheeled hard..
step 4- Remove snap ring from end of stub axle and the snap ring from the inside outer lip of the hub housing..The main hub body may need to be pushed in to gain better access to both....
Step 5- Remove the main hub body from the housing..I like to scerw 2 of the screws back in on opposing sides, it helps to wiggle it out...
step 6- Use the hub socket and unscrew the outer lock nut.. There may be a tin locking plate holding it in... use a small screw driver or drift to unfold the tabs and then remove nut..
step 7- Remove center spacer/alignment ring, A hook and L pick will work nicely, pick behind the ring and pull it out...Pleas note the alignment pin from the inner lock nut through this ring. It will need to be realinged when reinstalled or the outer locknut will work loose and your outer bearing will come loose, this will reak alot of havic on you....
Step 8- Use hub nut socket and remove inner locknut..
Step 9- The rotor should be loose wiggle it and the outer bearing should pop loose..remove and set aside..grab the rotor firmly and give it a good jerk. it should peel right off..Thus exsposing the spindle and backing plate...
Step 10-Remove the 5 nuts from the front of the spindle flange, then pry the spindle off.. I've had to drive steel shanked screwdrivers in between the spindle flange and caliper mount..
I say steel shank because the other type screwdrivers will shatter when hit with a hammer..DO NOT I repeat DO NOT hit the threaded section of the spindle with a hammer or heavy metal object...
This will damage the threads and you'll most likely need to find another spindle..An impact chisel on air gun sometimes helps..Watch that you don't damage the dust sheild too badly. It is tin and can be straightened if slightly dinged up...
Step 11-Once you got the spindle loose pry it out of the knuckle and set a side...
Step 12-Slide off caliper bracket, dust sheild, then label left or right accordingly and set aside...I do this because they can be but on the wrong side and mess up the reinstall...
this concludes the tear down..

Reinstall is basiclly the same process reversed with a couple additions...
Possible Exceptions
1-Muesure the length of the stub shaft and compare to donor... If within 1/4"-3/8" you should be ok.. From the inner seal flange to the splined end..If not swap as needed, good time to swap in new u-joint too even if you don't need to swap shafts.
2-The new donor parts may/may not have the tin lock plate that the conversion vevical did/did not.. When installing lock nuts from donor reinstall exactly as removed from donor.
3-A few of the newer trucks use a 6 sided locknut system with locking tin plate.. You'll need the socket for that setup, and i recommend throwing that setup away.. The older Dana 44 lock nut system will work on the newer spindle, use it if you don't use the stage 8.
4-Some of the trucks use 1/2" studs and others the 9/16" make sure to install new ones if your donor doesn't match the rear axle....
I really recommend the Stage 8 lock nut system for anyone running a healthy engine and larger tires..Install as directioned on package if you use it..
The following tips are from experiance and advised...
Tip 1-Now is a good time to clean and paint any parts that need it...Remeber not to paint threads, bearing or seal surfaces..
Tip 2-Use anti seize on spindle where it fits into the knuckle...
Tip 3-Replace u-joints, seals, bearings, and brake pads while your at it, the rotors to if you need to...
Tip 4-Don't mix and match donor/coversion parts without carefull consideration as most will NOT interchange...
Tip 5-Only do one side at a time, it keeps the gear oil in the housing and less likely to loose/mismatch parts...
A ounce of prevention saves a ton of headache... Pics to follow as soon as wife down loads and edits them... the camera is smarter then me... should be ready this weekend..

Originally Posted by hav24wheel

or Chevy outters will work too, if you swing that way.