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Symptoms - Hard starting in 30° weather, lots of white smoke.
GPR - output was 10.8 volts
GPs -
1 - 1.5
2 - 1.4
3 - 1.5
4 - 19.0
5 - 1.2
6 - .8
7 - 1.3
8 - .8
warm engine
checked from valve cover harness
#5 wiring connector was burnt/melted, only the section to GP.
Can I cut the lead to 5 until I can get time to replace harness?
Numbers don't look bad except for #4. The output @ 10.8 volts is a bit low IMO. Measure the other big terminal on the GPR which is hot all the time. Better yet measure the voltage drop across the relay. Put one lead on one big terminal and the other lead on the other big terminal. Anything more the 0.5 volts DC and you might have a bad contacts inside the GPR.
Numbers don't look bad except for #4. The output @ 10.8 volts is a bit low IMO. Measure the other big terminal on the GPR which is hot all the time. Better yet measure the voltage drop across the relay. Put one lead on one big terminal and the other lead on the other big terminal. Anything more the 0.5 volts DC and you might have a bad contacts inside the GPR.
X2. 10.8 will drop another volt or so when you start cranking so you've either got weak batteries or a problem with the GPR. Sounds like the GPR based on the smoke.
Try holding a screwdriver across the 2 large posts for 30 seconds then get in and crank (you can ignore the WTS) and see if it fires off better.
X2. 10.8 will drop another volt or so when you start cranking so you've either got weak batteries or a problem with the GPR. Sounds like the GPR based on the smoke.
Try holding a screwdriver across the 2 large posts for 30 seconds then get in and crank (you can ignore the WTS) and see if it fires off better.
passenger battery drains quick, i have to put on charge at night
it is weaker but i was more concerned about #5 being fried, btw i cut the lead to it for now.
Cutting the wire to the #5 glow plug won't hurt anything unless it shorts against metal when the GPR fires up. Don't forget to tape the end of the wire.
From another post and thread from Dave Sponaugle, regarding amp draw from the GP system on slighlty older model Powerstrokes..And I hope I don't butcher his wording up too much...." 192 amps"...IMHO..thats a significant amp draw for a potential 2 minute cycle of the GP's not to mention cranking to start the beast!...
Makes quick work of worn/weak batteries....
None of my wiring shows the fuse links. Why would the harness connector overheat and melt???? Shouldn't the fuse prevent this??
So should I replace the 2 .8 ohms GPs??
At those kinds of amps a lose connection would melt the connector quickly. check the quality of the physical connection of the pins in the harness/plugs/sockets. also the above ohms law assumes 12vdc which is not the case (i think you said 10.8?) so (I) would work out to be a little less i think. fuses protect from over current situation like a short to ground or too many amps being drawn through it. it wouldnt pop from a lose connection.
Symptoms - Hard starting in 30° weather, lots of white smoke.
GPR - output was 10.8 volts
GPs -
1 - 1.5
2 - 1.4
3 - 1.5
4 - 19.0
5 - 1.2
6 - .8
7 - 1.3
8 - .8
warm engine
checked from valve cover harness
#5 wiring connector was burnt/melted, only the section to GP.
Can I cut the lead to 5 until I can get time to replace harness?
Update- Replaced GPR, Voltage drop was ~2 volts. Replaced GPs 4, 6, & 8. Replaced bad harness end. All my GPs, through valve cover harness and engine cold, 3.8 ohms Ω.
Sat for over 24hrs in 5-20° temps, started after 3 cranks. Each time previous it would kick like it was going to start. Definite improvement.