My '01 F350 PSD is hard to start. I recently purchased a superchips flashpaq so I could get codes from the engine. The codes that came up recently (after clearing and then taking truck for short drive... CEL came on intermittently at about 2500 rpm. Codes thrown were P1670, P0603, and P1316. I have reviewed many posts here and started with the UVCH. The passenger side gave the following readings (Rear to front)

Glow Plugs .1 .4 .3 .3
Injectors 2.9 3.0 3.0 3.2

Drivers Side

Glow Plugs .6 .5 .6 .5
Injectors 7.6 3.2 3.2 3.2

I pulled the Passenger side valve cover and found the connector loose about 1/8 inch. Tightened it up and the connector piece on the harness broke off so i gotta get a new harness. However when tight I get the following readings

Glow Plugs .4 .5 .4 .5
Injectors 2.6 2.4 2.5 2.5

Truck started, but not easily, still took a few tries to get it going. not much oil popping up into the rocker area either.

I know i need a new harness and then the quarter mod, I also changed the glow plugs a couple of years ago, however i am not sure what brand is in there. Should I go ahead and replace the four glow plugs reading so low in ohms?

Also, what could be going on with the injector at 7.6 ohms? I tried it three times to make sure it was correct.

will do quarter mod after getting new harness.


Thanks for the help!

 

I don't think I'd worry about the glow plugs unless you're having white smoke on cold starts. With a P1316 code, I would have pulled the driver side valve cover first since one injector there had a high ohm reading.

 

My problem is i am not getting cold starts. if it gets below 50 degrees, i have to plug it in to start. If I don't plug it in, it tries to crank, gives white smoke, and doesn't start.

What should I be looking for on the injector with high ohm's? My plan was to pull that valve cover tomorrow and look there once i got direction from people here.

 

I guess I should have asked if there were any issues with how the truck runs once you get it started.

For the high ohm reading, I'd first look for a loose UVCH connector. If you plug it back in, or if the connector is not loose when you get under there, remove the solenoid and swap it with the one next to it. 4 torx head screws is all it takes to remove the soleniod (brown square plastic thing on top of the injector). After you swap them, ohm again and see if the high ohm reading follows the soleniod, or stays in the same hole. That will tell you if you have an issue with wiring or the solenoid.

For the white smoke issue, have you tested your GPR? It doesn't take very many glow plugs to start at 50 deg. If the GPR is dead, then none of the glow plugs are working.

 

Easiest way to test glowplugs assuming you don't have glowplug codes is to use a testlight with the ground on the postive terminal of the battery and the probe on the suspect wiring or glowplug end if you have the valve covers off. If the test light lights then the glowplug is making ground through the glowplug and is probably ok. P1316 is idm codes, you need to run an injector buzz test to see if you have either an injector, wiring, or idm concern.

 

I have tested the GPR, I get 12 volts coming out of it for about 30 seconds.

I take it i can just remove the solenoid without having to mess with removing the injector itself.

To give a little more detail on how it runs if it starts, is chugs and surges many times, (like its running on 4 or 5 cylinders) then smooths out. Most times it runs rough until you get into it hard - 2500 rpm, then it kicks in on all cylinders and runs smoothly. Almost like running on 7 cylinders until the 8th kicks in.

As far as starting goes, if it is not plugged in, it takes a LOT of tries to start it, sometimes requiring a jumpstart from another truck since the batteries (new) get run down. If it is cold out, it simply won't start unless plugged in for a few hours.

I don't have a tool to pull the idm codes currently.

I should state that it has a newly rebuilt IDM in it because the diesel shop i had taken it to said it needed one, but i refused to pay the $700 they wanted for one. Got a rebuilt one with a lifetime warranty for $169 and spent the 40 minutes putting it in.

 

Sounds like it may just be a loose connector on the driver UVCH. Yes, you can swap the solenoids without removing the injector.

The screw heads are full of oil, but you can see the 4 torx head screws holding the solenoids on there



Let us know how loose the driver side plug is tomorrow.

 

okay, been a busy day under the hood of the truck. Started out by purchasing a new harness and vlave cover gasket at NAPA. Installed it on the pax side. With the kit came a new connector to wire onto the truck if you wanted to. I found it is a GREAT tool to ohm out the uvch, so i will use it for that since the connectors on the truck are good.

Did the quarter mod to the new harness as well as tightened the rocker bolts and the lower injector bolt. figured while i was in there I'd take care of those too.

On to the drivers side... using the connector from the kit above, i re-checked the values for the injectors. All injectors cam out fine, the one that was 7.8 ohmed out to 3.6. Glow plugs came out fine also. Since i planned on opening it up anyways, I pulled the valve cover and found the connector to be about 1/8 inch out. Tightened it up, did quarter mod, and tightened up the rockers and injector bolts.

Took engine out for a quick run and it threw a whole mess of codes. Checked online and found that I needed to reset the pcm by removing the positive cables. I did so, and cleared the codes. AMAZING the truck started and ran smoother than it has in a while. Still unsure of a cold start since it was 65 here today, but will check that tomorrow.

Now for the new problem. I ma getting two codes coming up, thankfully NOT 1316.. however i am consistently getting the P0603 KAM error, as well as a P1000 error. Any ideas?

 

Oh, and as a side note, the injectors on the drivers side have three different solenoids on the four of them. Someone definitely has been in there before working on injectors. Found at least 3 had AD codes, and one has AE code on it.

 

Congrats. You're done. The codes you have left are because you disconnected the batteries. Completing a driving cycle will clear them out.

And it's the factory configuration to run AD injectors on the first 3 holes and an AE (long lead) injector in #8. You just saved yourself hundreds of dollars by doing this yourself. Time to feel good about it.

 

Went out this morning to start truck... 45 degrees out, not plugged in, after about six tries it finally started. It would try to start, chug and knock on about 4 cylinders, then finally caught and stayed running.

Drove it to the office (about 7 miles), truck threw the 1316 code again as well as the KAM error.

Guess i need to find someone with an AE tool to get the details of the 1316 code.

Any other thoughts? I am planning on replacing the 4 glow plugs that read so low, however i am afraid they might be autolites....

 

I would go ahead and replace the GPR while you are at it. You siad it only runs for 30 sec? I think it should be more like 1 min and 30 sec?

cessnapilot, where are you located?

 

I may go ahead and replace it also. I was under the impression that the time the glow plugs were running depends upon ambient temperature. I checked them on a warm 60 degree day. I'll check that tomorrow. I also plan on doing the glow plug light mod so i can see how long they stay on anytime.

I am located in Loganville, GA, about 40 miles east of Atlanta.

 

When it finally started, was it smoking out the tailpipe? If so, what color was the smoke, and how thick was it? If it really had a miss like it was only firing on 4 cylinders, I'd suggest getting one of those infra red thermometers and shoot the exhaust manifolds to see if you can determine what's not firing.

You might also try ohming the wires again when it's acting up. Maybe you have an injector soleniod going bad.

 

I got a little white smoke when it was trying to start, then it turned black and cleared up when it kicked in. I will try ohming the wires again as well as finding someone with an AE to check the IDM codes, that should tell me a bit more what is going on in there.