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Assuming you do not have any other front end problems, you can adjust the steering gear play at the box. The Haynes manual has the procedure but its fairly simple. I was tought to get both front wheels off the ground then loosen the lock nut and adjust the play stopping to turn the wheels to make sure you do not over tighten then lock it back down
Hope this helps
Gasman
Do you have Gas?
Propane Execeptional Energy
Also check for play in the lower steering column shaft....between the upper column and the steering box. It is very common for the slip yoke to be worn out. You need to replace the shaft to cure it.
Check the ball joints, tie rod ends, drag link, adjuster, pittman arm, and the rag joint at the top of the box. If you blew off a ps line, and got oil everywhere, the rag joint is most likely bad. Be sure to give the tie rod adjusters a good shake, as I have seen these so loose they almost came apart.
It's the vibration isolator between the steering box & the intermediate steering shaft. On pre-87 trucks, it might as well be made of rags because it goes out so commonly . Fortunately, the '87-91 rag joint is solid vulcanized rubber & is a direct replacement for the older one.
That is what I thought it was, but never have heard it called that before. Thanks for the explaination and the heads up on the better replacement part to buy. One other question, is the play in the steering gear box as common as everyone makes it sound? I've been told to adjust it, not to adjust it, just replace it. What to do? I don't mind paying the $200 to replace it if it will eliminate the play, but I'm going to be a little hot if it wasn't the problem.
I'm chasing the same kind of steering slop on my 94 E150 4.9L cargo van. It's got about 193K miles on it.
The front springs are on my suspect list. The van spent life as a plumbing contractor truck usually carrying fairly light stuff. When empty, it looks like the rear has been jacked up way high, but it is all stock.
When it is full of gas (35 gallons) the steering is a lot better and the van sits closer to level.
So that gets me to thinking the front is sagging from worn springs and throwing off the suspension geometry, in addition to the wear expected at this high mileage. My understanding is ride-height is pretty important on the Ford I-Beam suspension.
Anyone know the specification? It's not in the stupid Chilton manual.
My radius arm bushings don't look too bad. The brackets are bolted on, from what I've heard these are often riveted on from the factory. Maybe they've been changed at some point in the past?
Adjusting a steering box is VERY delicate, and overtightening it can cause the SAME effects as leaving it loose, so I wouldn't advise it. Unless you have an in-lb torque wrench and the box is new but maladjusted, I wouldn't waste the time. Just get a LLT warranted box from your preferred parts house (I HATE THE ZONE ) and a cheap pitman arm puller. Use Type F ATF when you refill it. That's the specified fluid, and the aftermarket PSFs all have additives that ruin the seals. Adding an inline filter is often recommended, but I've never found one that's marketed as being suited to PS applications.