Hey guys, long time and NO POST! Its been about a year since I last posted anything, since I started my new job i haven't had a lot of time nor the urge to get on the PC much. My New Years resolution is to post more!

Now the question,
Back when I first go my truck I replaced the alternators with DB(crap) units because I was getting a fault code and they weren't putting out 14V. Now about 3 moths ago they both died, so this time I replaced them with high output units from Nations starter and electric. I purchased there TAD190 units which put out 130A at idle (stock is around 50A) and 190A at full RPM (stock is around 100A), so I can do 260A at idle! The GPR system pulls about 150A, so you can see the strain on the OEM system! I also got a Mitsubishi 3 bolt high torque starter and overall am very happy with both products, the alternators are twice as heavy and are physically larger. Now since CO has finally gotten cold weather I have cold start issues, the truck will start fine but after 8 or so seconds after start up it will run really rough and smoke, I can tell the GPR system turns off my monitoring voltage. I replaced both GPR with a Stancor and the GP's with OEM sticks last year, so I don't think I should be getting any issues yet. I have been monitoring my voltage with my tekonsha P3 and verified with AE that my truck usually runs around 14.5-14.8 volts. My question is that too high, could that burn out the GPR? I haven't put a multimeter on the GPR yet but you can definitely tell when the system turns off, which it shouldn't when its cold out. What regulates the amps to the GPR? I thought the PCM turned off the second alt (if installed) as to regulate the current going into the system? This could all be coincidence or related and that's what bothers me!

Thanks for the help and Happy New Year!
-AK

 

The GPR will only stay on for a max of 2 minutes no matter the temp.

The GPR and GPs can easily handle 15 volts.

Current isn't regulated, only the voltage via the voltage regulator in the alternator(s).

Any device needing voltage, and in proper operating condition, will only draw the current it needs.

 

Try plugging in the engine heater... if it improves the running, i would suggest switching to syn oil, like 5w40.

 

I am running Rotella 5W40, its not like the romps, its more of a miss until it warms up (about 1 1/2min).

 

Ok.. try unplugging the ICP and check the idle..