blown head gaskets etc

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Dec 31, 2010 | 03:25 AM

broncoformudv

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Joined: Dec 2010

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From: Wasilla, Alaska

blown head gaskets etc

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9; mso-style-qformat:yes; mso-style-parent:""; mso-padding-alt:0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; mso-para-margin-top:0in; mso-para-margin-right:0in; mso-para-margin-bottom:10.0pt; mso-para-margin-left:0in; line-height:115%; mso-pagination:widow-orphan; font-size:11.0pt; font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif"; mso-ascii-font-family:Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font:minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family:"Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-theme-font:minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family:Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font:minor-latin;} </style> <![endif]--> 2004 Ford Excursion 6.0L 85,000 miles all stock
I started having drivability issues a few weeks ago and parked my truck kinda expected it to be a faulty injector. Started to look into it more and realized I also lost heat. Checked my degas bottle and it was 1.5 gallons low even though nothing had puked out of it. Topped it off and ran the truck and had excessive white smoke on startup which became dark blue/black smoke. Nothing bubbling in the degas bottle and still no heat and running like crap.

Hook it up to the scanner and do the KOEO scan and have no stored codes and the CEL has yet to come on. Do the KOER scan and get a faulty #6 injector and IAT sensor. Now I know which injector is bad.
Elevate the rear end for 30 minutes and pull the EGR valve to see if there is coolant in the intake but do not see any obvious signs of coolant. The EGR looks like I expected it to look after 85,000 miles dry carbon buildup on everything and some moist carbon on the tip and in the bottom of the intake. (Hardly moist at all)
Monitor my EOT and ECT and they stay a steady 5 degrees apart regardless of what I do with the throttle. Hopefully this means my oil cooler is still good?
Put the exhaust sniffer in the Degas bottle mouth and it registers hydrocarbons so guess that means the head gaskets are shot and why I no longer have heat.

I am the second owner and have had to put two injectors, an injector wiring harness, cam sensor, 2 batteries, and 2 alternators in it. The oasis report said it had 2 turbos installed from what I recall(two years ago so there could have been more).

I am planning on pulling the heads and doing the studs and new gaskets just trying to decide between stock gaskets or aftermarket.
Should I go ahead and get a new oil cooler and EGR cooler just to be on the safe side or wait till I get in there and see if I can spot any obvious signs of leakage?

Still undecided on keeping the EGR and EGR cooler or getting rid of it all. I do not have emission inspections here and never will and could care less about breaking the law just want my truck to be reliable.

Going to install a coolant filter and flush the cooling system while I am at it. Would it be better to do that prior to installing the new parts?

Sorry about the lengthy post and number of questions.

Happy New Year!

Rob

Dec 31, 2010 | 05:34 AM

AGE mechanic

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Joined: Jan 2004

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From: Arizona

I would replace the oil cooler and go with the Bulletproof EGR cooler while you are into it.

Dec 31, 2010 | 05:41 AM

gearloose1

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Joined: Jul 2005

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Quote:

Originally Posted by AGE mechanic

I would replace the oil cooler and go with the Bulletproof EGR cooler while you are into it.

Second that.

Is there any other issues in that year?

HPOP? O rings? STC?

What about tossing out sensors that are inside, hard to reach, and dumping the more obviously worn harnesses?

Jan 2, 2011 | 11:33 PM

broncoformudv

Thread Starter

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Joined: Dec 2010

Posts: 177

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From: Wasilla, Alaska

started tearing her down tonight.

found an oil leak on top of the engine but it is not coming from the turbo or its feed and return line guess that leaves a sensor or the oil filter housing since it seems to be centered in that area. that explains the occasional burnt oil smell I would get yet didn't have any oil dripping down anywhere.

Down to the intake and valve covers.

The antifreeze looks a little nasty but not too bad seen much worse on gassers.