Removing 87-91 guage cluster...
Lead Driver
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 9,557
Likes: 44
From: Concord, NC
The "EMISS" light was only used in '87 as best I can tell. Likely it was never there at all.
As for figuring out what goes where, just follow the printed circuit on the cluster. It will lead right to what it goes to. I'm not so sure that resistor is for the oil pressure gauge. The oil pressure circuits are on the top side of the connector attachment above the resistor. '87 or '88 was the last year for the variable resistance oil pressure sender, so there's a chance the cluster does not need any modification.
As for figuring out what goes where, just follow the printed circuit on the cluster. It will lead right to what it goes to. I'm not so sure that resistor is for the oil pressure gauge. The oil pressure circuits are on the top side of the connector attachment above the resistor. '87 or '88 was the last year for the variable resistance oil pressure sender, so there's a chance the cluster does not need any modification.
Cargo Master
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 2,935
Likes: 34
From: Arcadia, Fla
Yep thats the resistor to jump over. If you notice just above the resistor there is two copper pads, Those are solder points from the factory to bypass(jumper over) the resistor. Best thing to do is solder on the resistor legs, do not use TOO much heat as the plastic will melt. Sometimes solder will not stick to the resistor, just scratch the legs and solder should stick. Use only reison core solder, never acid core!
Lead Driver
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 9,557
Likes: 44
From: Concord, NC
After doing some searching, that is not the resistor to jumper for the oil pressure gauge. The cluster pictured above is already setup for the variable resistance sender.
See photos near the bottom of the page here: Ford Oil Pressure Gauge Fix
You will see a second resistor above the resistor pictured here in this thread. The resistor on the top side of the printed circuit is for the oil pressure "gauge."
See photos near the bottom of the page here: Ford Oil Pressure Gauge Fix
You will see a second resistor above the resistor pictured here in this thread. The resistor on the top side of the printed circuit is for the oil pressure "gauge."
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Postmaster
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 2,703
Likes: 7
From: Des Moines, Iowa
So something is wrong then... I put the variable pressure oil sender in with a 45* brass angle. If my guage is setup for "real oil pressure" why is it that I now have the red "engine" light on, and my guage reads low oil pressure???? It also doesn't move when i rev the engine... I already replaced the oil pump and screen and have been changing the oil regularly... The engine also looks nice and clean from the bottom side (crank, etc...) and from the top (under the valve cover).
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Postmaster
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 2,703
Likes: 7
From: Des Moines, Iowa
I went back and re-read all the information i could. it seems that sometimes dealer installed early verision with the pressure switch put the resistor inline right outside the pressure switch under the hood. Also I might have put too much teflon tape on, so it's not grounded. I'm going to go and check both those things tonight.
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Postmaster
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 2,703
Likes: 7
From: Des Moines, Iowa
Well I confirmed the position of my oil guage
So if I needed a jumper it would be the upper left resistor like eric said. So my guage is golden! unfortunatly this means I have another problem somewhere else... I am going to check for another inline resistor on the sending wire when i get home and try grounding the switch out... I definatly don't get variable oil pressure so hopefully it's something simple like needing a ground... So here is the question... If my sender isn't grounded at the block would my guage read at all? because I have been getting a steady oil pressure... right where it shows in pic above. it does not move when I rev motor up though... Any other thoughts would be great guys!
So if I needed a jumper it would be the upper left resistor like eric said. So my guage is golden! unfortunatly this means I have another problem somewhere else... I am going to check for another inline resistor on the sending wire when i get home and try grounding the switch out... I definatly don't get variable oil pressure so hopefully it's something simple like needing a ground... So here is the question... If my sender isn't grounded at the block would my guage read at all? because I have been getting a steady oil pressure... right where it shows in pic above. it does not move when I rev motor up though... Any other thoughts would be great guys!
pedant
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 23,576
Likes: 39
From: EXTREME southwest CT
It grounds through the sender to the block. (at least mine does)
What is the engineering number on the sender unit that you have?
What is the engineering number on the sender unit that you have?
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Postmaster
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 2,703
Likes: 7
From: Des Moines, Iowa
i'd have to get back to you on the sender number. All I know is that it is a Borg Warner sender... I used another NAPA part number to cross reference to it that someone else posted. Yeah i know it grounds to the block through the sender... If i have to much teflon tape on it and it isn't grounded would it run at all though??????? mine shows low OP... like in pic above...
pedant
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 23,576
Likes: 39
From: EXTREME southwest CT
Called something like "Inferred Mileage Sensor" it sets off the light every 70kmi or so and is a reminder for you to service the A.I.R. pumps and their related plumbing and valves.
Lead Driver
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 9,557
Likes: 44
From: Concord, NC
The EMISS light is connected to an hour meter up inside the dash.
Called something like "Inferred Mileage Sensor" it sets off the light every 70kmi or so and is a reminder for you to service the A.I.R. pumps and their related plumbing and valves.
Called something like "Inferred Mileage Sensor" it sets off the light every 70kmi or so and is a reminder for you to service the A.I.R. pumps and their related plumbing and valves.
If i have to much teflon tape on it and it isn't grounded would it run at all though??????? mine shows low OP... like in pic above...
The factory gauge on my truck doesn't move much, is slow to respond, and rides in a similar position to yours. I notice the biggest difference in gauge position between cold start and hot idle. Other than that it really doesn't follow engine speed like the mechanical gauge. Might be due to the teflon tape I used too, although it has never been low enough to turn on the red "engine" light.
New User
Joined: Mar 2017
Posts: 1
Likes: 0
I know this is an old thread but quick question. Would bypassing the resistor also fix an issue with the fuel gauge? I have an oil gauge and fuel gauge not working. We have replaced the fuel sending unit already and supposedly it is getting signal to the cluster. The oil pressure is good just not registering. It does on one cluster but not the other so I suspect the oil issue is the resistor on that cluster but the fuel gauge stays full on one cluster and 1/8 on the other cluster.Any help would be greatly appreciated. I have another cluster that the fuel and temp gauges aren't working on it and don't know why.
Last edited by Todd Goodwin; Mar 29, 2017 at 04:17 PM. Reason: adding information
Tuned
Joined: Apr 2015
Posts: 336
Likes: 24
From: Michiana
No the resistor is just there for the oil gauge. It is to increase the resistance to the gauge so the gauge does not peg to the right.
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