Alright...stock motor was done and I had a 347 that I had just built to go in my '73 sitting in the shop, so I decided to drop it in my '95...but to use the '95's efi setup. I have made the swap and am having a problem that I can't seem to nail down.....let me go through the details of the build/swap and I need some expert opinions as I am running out of things to try/check.

'92 Roller Truck Block
Speed HYP Pistons Custom Machined Valve Reliefs
Hastings Rings
Comp 270HR Cam
GT40 Iron Heads Ported. Air Tubes blocked on back of heads.
FelPro PT2 Head Gaskets
Ford SVO 1.72 Roller Rockers
Ford M6513 - A50 Valve Springs
Manley Race Flo Valves Oversize
Ford EV6 Injectors 24# Blue Tops From Taurus but should be similar to M9593-AA302 Ford Motorsport Injectors
Eagle Stroker Crank
Eagle Rods
FelPro 1250 Intake Gaskets
Stock Dual Throttle Body
Stock 94MM MAF
Stock Bug2 (CBAZ0 Strategy) EECIV with Lasota Racing Chip (Programmed for 24# injectors, smog delete, and larger VE due to stroker)
Motorcraft Copper Plugs gapped .050 ('95 Cobra Mustang Plugs)
Ford Motorsport Racing 9mm Plug Wires
Stock TFI Distributor
MSD Blaster TFI Coil
MSD 6AL Ignition
Ford Motorsport Double Roller Timing Chain installed straight up.
Ford Lightning Shorty Headers to Custom Mandrel 2.5" Y-pipe to single inlet/dual outlet Magnaflow exhaust. No Cats, No smog pump.
Stock 02 Sensor (Not sure how old) remounted in driver side exhaust after y-pipe crosses back under oil pan. In other words connection is right side where the o2 lives and it is right before the right bank merges into the 2 to 1 collector.
Vacuum lines capped for Air Diverter tubes and smog pump.
New Water Pump
Stock Dual Tanks and Fuel Pumps - Reported these trucks have 125lph at 39.5 psi pumps

Also swapped in 2003 4r70w Tranny. Repinned wiring harness for solenoids, also changed in the '95 TCC solenoid which has the lower ohm rating to work with my EEC.

Problem is the truck starts great, idles steady, revs awesome. Problem is when I have a load on the vehicle. It will boil the tires for the first 20 feet and then starts to stumble to the point of basically stalling. I can floor and it will run, but with basically no power and sound like it's hitting on about 3 or 4 cylinders. I can put it back in neutral, rev up and it smoothes back out. Also check engine will flash on when this happens, and then off again. Here is the rundown of what I have checked thus far.

Only code other than the Code 511 which is caused by the custom chip.
KOEO Continuous Memory Code 181 - At richest adaptive limit/right bank lean.
KOER Test - 111 Passed
DTM Cylinder Balance Test - 90 Passed

• Ignition - Timing set 10 degress (spout removed)
• Ignition - Changed to new motorcraft copper plugs - No change
• Ignition - Dropped the MSD box and tried stock TFI with MSD coil - No change
• Ignition - Checked plug wires. Ford wires only measure about 2.8k ohms resistance compared to about 8k ohms on standard suppression wires. Wonder if their is too much EMI from the ford wires messing with electrical sensors, especially tps since it's so close to distributor.
• Ignition - MSD coil Primary .9K ohms looks normal, secondary 3.7k ohms. This is about 1k ohms less than what specs showed, but the tech guy with MSD told me that he thought that would be within specs.
• Sensors - TPS .88V and is smooth throughout throttle range peaking at 4.7V
• Purge Solenoid - I think it is bad...I couldn't get it to open when applying 12v and grounding the connector...whilst trying to blow through the vacuum lines.
• TAB/TAD Solenoids - Connected, but vacuum lines plugged.
• All TAB/TAD/EVR vaccum lines checked, no leaks.
• Brake booster vaccum no leak.
• PCV valve looks good, no leaks.
• MAF was cleaned and seems to be operational. No voltage checks confirmed, other than unplugging and it did set a code when unplugged.
• IAB seems to be operational, if you unplug, motor will almost die and idle rough.
• Fuel Pressure- 40psi with vacuum line removed, 32-34 psi running at idle. The lowest I have seen running if I rev over 3,000 rpms while tapping the throttle it blipped to 29psi just for a sec, but stays pretty steady around 32-34 psi. When it begins the stumbling pressure actually increases to around 40psi.
• 02 Sensor - No checks performed
• Currently I am pulling the EV6 24# injectors and will be cleaning since they are used and could be gummed up. Not sure when the last time they were run prior to me installing in this setup. I have checked the ohms on each injector and they all are within a few thousandths 16 ohms. I also verified as many as I could when the engine was running if they were clicking open/close with long metal rod and they seemed to operating.

I am at wits end running so good (sounds like a world beater) and then dogs when load is applied.

Also I am guessing the 1250 gasket is ok to use with this head and manifold? From what I can tell it should be fine. Just trying to rule out a major vaccum leak.

Also what is the install torque for the lower manifold and the upper manifold?

Last thing would be a faulty or incorrectly programmed chip??

Help???

 

Code 181 and the dropping fuel pressure would seem to suggest a weak fuel pump, the pressure should not drop below 40psi at WOT and certainly not at only 3000rpm so I suggest you look at this first, replace the filter, check that the pump is getting a full 12v all the time, and replace/upgrade the pump if everything else checks out.

 

Does it do the same thing no matter what tank you are running from?

 

Do you think I could install a adjustable pressure regulator and try and up the pressure with the stock pump? Also, I have read about the two pump trick the lightning guys use and thought about trying that with a toggle mounted on dash. It would kick on both front and rear tanks....although you would need to keep both fueled...may work for a test at least. May have to change tanks, or sump the tank or something. I have a 190lph Walbro GSL394 sitting on my worktable, but it would only work as a gravity feed external sump pump. What do you think about the plug wires. You ever heard of anything interferring with the electronics? I spoke with Don at Lasota Racing again about the chip and he said it was fairly simple modifications and felt confident about the chip programming. Me not soo confident at this point....but everything seems to still be pointing at fuel flow.

 

Well the front tank is bone dry, so I have to get some fuel in there, and I will test on the front tank. But the answer is....I haven't tried it on the front tank and pump.

Thanks!

 

Thats where I would start.. Its unlikely that both pumps are weak/going out.

 

you can use an external pump if you want just pull the bed off and pop the tank sending unit+pump out and take off the pump and find a peice of hardline to replace the pump with, you can probably flair the ends and couple them together or just use a small peice of fuel line to hold the two peices of hard line together, that's what i did anyway

 

Does it pull enough full since it's having to work against gravity? What type of pump are you using? I am going to try cleaning the injectors and go from there, but need as much input as possible to narrow down the gremlin.

 

After I finish cleaning the injectors, I am definitely trying the 2 pump trick next. Thinking about this the fuel pressure should increase as I hit the throttle. When it dropped to 29psi one time it's when I punched the throttle pushing up in the 3k area. It's pulling vacuum so it runs only 32-34 psi at idle (which even may be a little low at idle), and then as you increase throttle travel, vacuum to fpr should decrease which raises fuel pressure. I.E. Vacuum removed on stock fpr goes to 40psi. I also may invest in a adjustable fpr. As a quick check I guess I could unplug the fpr (raising pressure to a steady 40psi) and plug fpr vacuum line and give it a test.

 

Yes that's a good test, if pressure still drops under load you definitely have a delivery problem

 

Update on Progress.....

Planning to install adjustable FP regulator since I think pressure is an issue. Pressure never increases as vacuum decreases. When the throttle is open, pressure should rise to a maximum of 40 psi at WOT. Thus the reason Conanski and I were agreeing on the vacuum pulled from the fpr and plugged psi test above to see if it helped, but I think I need to fix the leak and injector problem before trying the test.

Pull current injectors which turned out to be 22.45 # at 43.5 psi injectors instead of true 24# @ 30psi that truck is tuned for.

Fix exhaust header to y-pipe flange exhaust leak.

I also learned that with our trucks with one o2 sensor, that code 181 bank #1 lean is just the default code the PCM throws for a lean condition regardless of side. With only one o2 the system has no way of knowing which bank is lean. In my case my o2 is on the opposite side the bank that the PCM is saying lean. Without an o2 sensor on that bank how would it know? There is also no way to adjust fuel to individual banks or injectors even though it is sequential fire due to the PCM only referring to the fuel tables and mass air transfer tables. What one injector is programmed to, all injectors are programmed to. So if one is lean they should all be lean...that is if you can rule out vacuum leaks, problem injectors, etc.

I also plan to wire the two pump trick just in case the adj. fpr doesn't help, but I think the adj. fpr will help if pump can keep up.

 

Update....after all the work....it's the tune in the chip. Truck runs like a mad dog on stock tune with Bosch 24# blue EV6 injectors when I pulled the chip. Now I'm taking it to the dyno and restarting from there on the final tune as I know I am still leaving power on the table. Chip was my first instinct...could have save alot of time, but hey, I learned alot and have the two pump trick installed just in case I am leaning out on top. The motor is freakin awesome compared to the stocker I pulled out. How far do I want to spin the tires? As far as I want too....lol!!! Speaking of that, do these rear ends all of have posi trak? Both tires spin?