When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Are you just going by the Scan Gauge or did the dealer verify the reading with there computer... Reason I ask is I have noticed some strange readings with different scan tools...First my Mac scanner reported a 40* difference between ECT and EOT... Dealer hooked up there computer and only showed me a 6- 8* degree difference at its highest...My scan guage shows a 8-10 degree difference at its highest...Three different scanners 3 different readings.....but will go with the dealers readings and the scan gauge was only off by 1-2 degrees....Also what are the chances that the EOT sensor could be off on the high end ... I mean cold it could be fine but as it warms up the resistance changes and shows a higher than normal reading....
Now I hook up the 5th wheel, 9K and pulling down the interstate at 60 MPH in towing mode,,, and my eyes are on the scan guage,,,ECT 190-195,,,EOT 236 237 238.
...
My goal is to pull the trailer at 70 Mph, without hurting the engine by cooking the oil.
First off, not sure what kind of oil you use but you probably aren't going to cook the oil at temps below 250F. My guess is that your new oil cooler is not getting full coolant flow for some reason. I agree with Gearloose...the flush may have caused the new cooler to become partially constricted.
Can you rule out a bad thermostat brand new out of the box?
Or the wrong one?
Or it installed backwards?
It isn't possible to install the t-stat backwards on these engines. I think his t-stat is fine; ECTs are where they should be.
As mentioned, coolant temp is fine, so thermostat is not your problem. Dieselstorm.com has the dfuser coolant filter on sale right now. Great unit and doesn't have the bad T that the dieselsite one does.
Over the Summer, Oil Cooler failed on my 2003 F-250 4X4, 126K miles. Replaced it with OEM Cooler, Flushed the radiator, changed the waterpump. Was still seeing a high EOT/ECT differential, and truck runs great.
So in an effort to cure the problem with many folks including the dealership, giving me good advice I changed the EGR and temp sensor. Again OEM.
Reading this again, it is not clear to me that you changed the EGR cooler.
I replaced the oil cooler, when the cooler blew. water pump and themostat at the same time. After I finished I took it to Ford for the diag and they told me to change the egr to correct the temp differential. I did it, no change. So last thing I did was change the EOT sensor.
TampaDave, you may not be following me. Did you change the EGR cooler? Not the EGR valve, but the cooler?
Your coolant path is in series, through the oil cooler first, then through the EGR cooler. If either of those coolers is restricted, the coolant flow will be blocked.
This seems like a long shot, because a competent dealer tech should know to always change out both coolers. But when the obvious does not add up we have to start looking at the less obvious. Who did the work?
ok,, and my egr cooler looks like the bottom picture. I did take the egr valve out and cleaned it.
The new egr cooler matched the one I took out. So, summary, since July, I changed in order, Oil Cooler, Thermostat, waterpump (dealer changed), oil temp sensor, egr cooler.
On the themostat,, I change it a couple times because I took it apart so I could properly do the radiator flush when I cleaned the oil from the radiator, when the oil cooler failed.
I was going to add the external coolant filter, but I am clueless on how to check the coolant system for blockage, especially knowing that the coolant temperatures never get out of the normal operating ranges.
Other than putting in the cooler filter is there anything else you would do??
I have exhausted ideas as well. I was sure we were on to something with the EGR cooler, but now we know you changed it. I do not know any way to test the flow through the circuit.
So we are back to installing the coolant filter, running it for a while, and then checking it for crud. The idea being, that if it plugs up quickly, on a freshly flushed system, then it is likely that the oil cooler has been collecting crud too.
It is probably time to get it to an expert tech, who has the tools and knowledge to get to the bottom of it. I wish you luck, and hope you will keep us informed. I for one am very interested in what is wrong.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.