Hey guys/gals!

Merry Christmas Eve!

Got a question on installing a LUK cerametallic SMF clutch in my '94.5. I got the trans out last night and discovered that the DMF had been swapped out for a LUK SMF at one time or another. Whoever did the change out last time needs shot though, cause 1/2 of the crossmember bolts weren't even tight as well as the bell housing bolts.

ANYWAY... I bought this kit I'm installing slightly used. Everything is in great shape, flywheel was resurfaced. My questions lie in re-installing. When I removed the trans, the throwout bearing fell out in pieces. HOW does it go back together? Also is the pilot bushing go into the flywheel from the engine side or the clutch side? Those are my main questions!!!

I've searched the forums as well as various clutch websites and haven't been able to find any detailed installation instructions. Nor any good pics. But my work computer doesn't allow me to view most pics so I don't know. Could you guys please help?!?!?! It looks super simple, but I just don't wanna screw it up.

THanks!!

 

hey man the pilot bushing is clutch side and if i seen the throw out i could tell you, i just did myn , mayb send redman a message or kris125 i no they both just did clutchs as well. seams like there should be a big flange on throwout baring, and that gos forward if i menber right

 

Put throw out bearing on input shaft, put clutch fork onto the back of the bearing, and push back into the bellhousing. Make sure the fork is seated well on its pivot ball and that the ball is round. Also check the back of the fork for wear. Move it back and forth as a unit to ensure proper action. Should be fairly smooth.

 

x2 with red man, new pivot ball is 35 bucks and fork is 45. if you ?? them i would replace them, i dint on my 93 and ate the throwout bareing up, had to take it all apart when 80 bucks could have saveed me some time. o pluse 15 for new throw out

 

Cool thanks guys! I'll take a good look at the fork and ball tomorrow. I didn't even look at that stuff. Where's the ball located? Also, does the throwout (small side) just go up against the fork and then the the large side up against the pressure plate? Or does the fork hook onto the back of the throwout in some way?

 

i just did one in my idi... should all be the same. my first throw out bearing fell apart, probably best to buy a new one if it actually fell apart, if it just fell off the input shaft, its no big deal. the big end of the throw out bearing goes against the pressure plate, it should turn smoothly. the fork just goes between the big end and small end, seems too simple, but thats the beauty of a zf5. bleed the crap out of the hydraulics.

 

Neal 97 is running a LUK SMF.

He said the bolts were too long when he installed his and he had to cut them down.

Most likely that is what happened to the previous owner.

 

Thanks. Yeah, the old throwout that was in there came out in pieces. I guess I didn't explain in my 1st post, but I got a "slightly used" throwout with the "slightly used" clutch and flywheel that I bought. I still didn't like how the "slightly used" throwout felt, so I went and bought a new one. Also looked closely at the fork and pivot ball as you guys suggested. THe ball is in great shape, but the fork, not so much. So I bought a new one of them too when I got the throwout bearing. The guy I bought this used stuff from supplied a new pilot bushing that he got when he had the flywheel resurfaced.

You're right, it did see TOO simple, but got it back together last night. New fork installed around the new throwout bearing. All buttoned back up underneath. I actually haven't opened up the slave or master cylinder at all yet. However, I have to replace the master because the rod where it attaches to the brake pedal is wallowed out. Gonna pre-bleed the replacement master and try like hell to get as little as air as possible when I swap them.

What bolts are these you speak of? THe bell housing mounting bolts, or the crossmember bolts, or clutch/pressure plate bolts, etc???

The bell housing bolts on mine went back in and seated exactly like they should. Whomever did it before didn't get them tight. As for the crossmember bolts, I got all of them in and tightened with the air impact. Again, installer error from before.

I want to drain and replace the tranny fluid in it too. The tag on the side of the trans says synthetic mercon and I've read that people have used a fully syn ATF as well. Question is, what would work best that's readily available and how many quarts does it take?

This truck was really beat up before I got it ( I bought it out of a field after it'd been sitting for almost a year) and it wasn't really taken care of before that. Hense the other thread I have about the TTB. Spring hanger bushings are shot but I have replacements already for that. Springs in the front are bad as it sets about 1 1/2" from the bump stops in the front. THe interior was trashed so I gutted it, took the dash completely apart as well as everything else to clean them up good. Totally different truck on the interior now. Also pulled the valve covers to find all the plugs were melted so it got new gaskets and UVCH, new Motorcraft glowplugs, new GPR, and a new fuel filter. Also unplugged the fuel heater and cleaned the fuel screen. I also retorqued all the rocker arms and injectors hold downs. They were all fairly loose. Oil is getting changed too.

Right after I bought it, I got it running but it took quite a bit of starting fluid to do it. But it'd smoke like a freight train and really didn't want to stay running.

It's also getting a new ICP sensor, 4" exhaust, Tymar intake, and gauges for now. A chip is coming later. Should be a pretty decent runner when I'm done. After getting into this thing more, it's amazing that I was able to even get it running with all the crud and crap in it.

Probably be the end of this coming weekend before I can get it out of the garage at the soonest.

 

I thought you were talking about the SMF bolts. The LUK SMF is a bit thinner. I think neal cut off 1/8th inch from his bolts cause they were bottoming out.

Gotta love how that other stuff was loose. Easy to get too once you know whats up, but that first time I dropped it, what a nightmare!

I have 5-6 qt's of full synthetic in mine.
I think steve is running 6.
It calls for 3.6 or 3.8 IIRC. We all overfilling to quiet gear rollover.

My low idle tune lets you know about the gear roll over big time. haha.

 

hey william is your truck jumpy on take offs and backing up??? the gear roll sucks! what kinda trans synthetic are you running??? i wanna change myn over,

 

I have a kevlar ceramic clutch, so it is jerky about 50% of the time. Depends on how warm the clutch is, when the clutch is cold, it's really tough to back out of my driveway in the slippery *** snow.

I'm just using a valvoline full snyth. I'ma switch to a higher grade sometime soon.

easiest way to fill is though the shifter tower.

I put studs into my floor for the shifter boot, works great, i can have it apart in seconds now.
and no more finding holes for the screws to go back into.
you can over fill a bit though the shifter tower to your liking.

there are breather holes somewhere on the top from my understanding, so if you get to full, you will have a mess while driving. I'm not 100% positive on that though.

 

ok sweet we have same clutch, what do you think on traction bars, i wanna make a set for the wheel hop think it will help, what do you think on rp oil for are trans it hi as hell but most of theme are

 

I have rp in mine and like it a lot. I think next round is gonna be amsoil or redline though