LINK to 50 cent mod. Read the thread so you know what it does.

 

Guys I'm a little confused about how a bone stock truck such as the OP would be getting oil into his fuel. Is the high pressure oil being shoved backwards through the fuel rails and into the filter housing then circulated back into the tank? I thought the fittings on the heads were some sort of check valve that would prevent this. Any ideas?

 

Well since I obviously have no idea what is really done to it, I will take some pics and put on here and MAYBE you guys can tell if it has a FRx or any other mods done to it. Because the only thing im sure of is the EDGE box. Is there anything/anywhere in particular you want me to take pics of. The top plastic cover for the motor is MIA... so it shouldnt be too hard to take pics.

 

When the O-rings on the injectors go bad, the HP oil will shoot right by them and get into the fuel system. HP oil system runs up to 2800ish psi on a stock truck, the fuel is only at about 55psi. You can see how the oil would easily push into the fuel rails instead of vise versa. Common issue, and ALL of them need to be pulled and replaced. There is no sense in trying to find one that's leaking (if it is indeed only one), and having another one go a month later....

To the OP: Sorry for scaring you with the compression test -- I should've thought about the oil in the fuel first. This is a pretty easy fix in less than a day, if you can turn a wrench. You WILL need a deep, thin-wall 10mm socket for the GPs, and a torque wrench that that measures in inch-pounds to do this right. I was missing a deep socket and had to call in reinforcements (Chris F350-6)... LOL

 

Thanks Izzy for helping me with that. I felt the same way as you but if he was upgrading injectors and needed to buy a little time I thought it may be worth a shot.

 

No worries. I'm not even sure how you could isolate it to one injector. You might be able to isolate it to one side, but even then, it's probably a matter of time until the other side goes, and it's not really that hard to R&R injectors all at once.

 

Well i have my new orings, and have both valve covers off and all the injectors on the drivers side out ready to do the orings... does anyone have any tips or videos on how to replace them? also is there anything else I should check while i have the vc off? i am going to re-torque all the bolts while im in there and probably do the 50 cent mod.

And Izzy i forgot to mention the guy i bought the truck from had a compression test done before i bought it while he was trying to figure out what was causing the 40 mph shudder. and according to him it was all good. but dont know how trustworthy that guy is ya know.

 

Injectors are pretty self explanitory, here's some info
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/4...rs-are-in.html

BTW my 40MPH shudder was caused by worn injectors.

 

This is a quote from a post of mine a few years ago and ended up on the tech article. It's very important not to hydrolock the engine. This job will go from bad to worse quick if you do that!

Here's the original text, based on changing two injectors chasing one bad one. That was the inspiration for the break out box.

"Don't mess with the plug on the back of the head unless you want to. There is some fuel in the rails but it can be dealt with pretty easily.

First pump the oil out of the high pressure oil pump reservoir. It's about a quart or so. The plug on the top can be removed for the Mity Vac to gain access.

You do need to remove the plug that is on the head that leads to the high pressure oil rail. It is drilled in-line with one of the injectors and faces the lifter valley. You will want to use the Mity Vac to suck out all the oil in the head, it will be another quart or so.

Get three rags or paper towels. Have them ready to go, sitting right there next to you. The second you pull the injector, stuff a rag into the hole. Wait 5 seconds. Pull that rag out and stuff another one in there. Wait 5 seconds. Pull it out and stuff the third one in there. Leave it there for now. Between pumping the oil you can out of the rail and the rags soaking it up, you will have captured about 90% of the fuel and oil that would have drained into the cyl.

Mity-vac what you can out of the cyl and also pull the glow plug and turn the motor over by hand a few times with a breaker bar. A nice little mist will spray up and out letting you know it's ok to put the glow plug back in. It is an excellent time to put in new glow plugs.

Before you put the injector back in, spray a little brake cleaner down the hole. It will blow any tiny bits of build-up down into the cylinder so the copper gasket on the new injector can get a good seal."

 

Oh yeah, oil up the o rings good before you try to install. Slathering some oil on the injectors to stuff the things in the head is never bad either.

 

Well found my bad O-rings...

http://i1216.photobucket.com/albums/...-07-18_722.jpg

http://i1216.photobucket.com/albums/...-05-01_757.jpg

http://i1216.photobucket.com/albums/...-04-49_589.jpg

Now just waiting for the new ones to get here from riffraff. Hopefully in the next day or 2. I'm hoping that this may clear up the 40mph shutter... Anyone got any thoughts on if it will?

 

Those suckers were toast.

Don't forget to liberally lube the new ones with fresh oil before you put the injectors back in the bores.

Not sure if new o-rings will cure the shutter but the truck is going to run better none the less. Had to
be loosing ICP due to those deteriorated o-rings. This is a cut and paste from Alan's post 23 "BTW my
40MPH shudder was caused by worn injectors."

Edit: How many miles on your truck?

 

Well. I finally got it all done. Only took me about 4 hrs to do it once I actually go to working on it. And good news no more oil leak haha. Bad news it feels like I have NO power. I am running the fuel through that has all the oil in it so I decided to hold off from changing the fuel filter til I run a tank or two through it. After that I will put the filter in it. Im kinda hoping that it will help with the power issue. I put a new air and oil filter on it too. I have had a lot of good luck with WIX filters in the past so thats what I bought. And I bought a WIX fuel filter too. My truck just rolled 160k. If I turn my Edge box up then I have power... But when its on stock I can pretty much had the pedal floored and it just barely accelerates. The only other issue I had was the left IC tube kept popping out of the boot. But I fixed it and it was still build boost so I dont think that is affecting my power issue, but I would like to replace the boots if anyone knows where a good place to get them would be.Not sure if I posted it before but I have the Edge Juice Attitude box.

 

Aramid Boots at Riraff

Glad you got the oil burning issue resolved.

I would change that fuel filter now to make sure your loss of power isn't something else.

As for blowing boots make sure the groove in the stock boot is aligned with the ridge on the IC tube and that the clamp is centered above where they align.