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I have a 2006 f350 5.4L 4x4.I put auxiliary back up lights on it for plowing snow.I recently had to put a new transmission in the truck,the guy at the trans. shop said the back up lights can't be hooked into the reverse switch,they have to be run through a trailer brake controller.He says ford sent out a notice in 2005 regarding this issue.Does anyone know about this?
I believe that you should use the Trailer Reverse Light circuit, which is run by a relay separate from the truck backup lights. The trailer brake controller has no way to control the reverse lights.
Many features were included in the late model integrated Towing systems, but I believe that even those systems don't use the brake controller to run the backup lights!
I believe that you should use the Trailer Reverse Light circuit, which is run by a relay separate from the truck backup lights. The trailer brake controller has no way to control the reverse lights.
Many features were included in the late model integrated Towing systems, but I believe that even those systems don't use the brake controller to run the backup lights!
What he said. The 7 pin connector has a b/u light wire in it. I have only seen a couple of trailers with b/u lights but it is wired into that connector if you want grab your power source from it.
Actually, the best way to do it is run your own relay powered by a fused source directly from the battery, and have it triggered by the reverse light power supply. That way, the lights will come on in reverse, but they will be running off their own power supply directly from the battery. In fact, on mine I threw a switching setup in the back so I could also flip a switch out back to over ride them and turn them on if I needed to see while the vehicle was parked to hook up a trailer for example.
For plowing i have 2 - 4" par 36 led very low amp draw tapped into my reverse lights. I also have 4 lights switched on with my upfitter switch when they are needed. I would not tap into the reverse light with high amp draw lights.
The best (and simplest) bet is to use a 7 pin trailer connection and tap either the reverse light pin or the headlight/marker light pin (our favored approach). The newer trucks run lighting through the PCM and are VERY finiky about electric draw. Be sure to use heat-shrink tube or butt connectors, sensor-safe silicone and lots of Fluid Film or dielectric grease.
As for the LED flood lights, we converted everything on all the trucks several years ago. Sound off, Whelen, and a number of others have very solid products. Look for stainless hardware, forged aluminum cases, and glass lenses.
How do you like those LED lights? Do they put off enough usable light?
They are ok. They are expensive. They are brighter but cover a smaller area than the 4" tractor lights. I like them for the low amps. I'm going to purchase 2 more as 4 leds draw less amps than 2 incandescent. Electric plows draw lots of juice and having only 1 battery the led's work good there.
The best (and simplest) bet is to use a 7 pin trailer connection and tap either the reverse light pin or the headlight/marker light pin (our favored approach). The newer trucks run lighting through the PCM and are VERY finiky about electric draw. Be sure to use heat-shrink tube or butt connectors, sensor-safe silicone and lots of Fluid Film or dielectric grease.
As for the LED flood lights, we converted everything on all the trucks several years ago. Sound off, Whelen, and a number of others have very solid products. Look for stainless hardware, forged aluminum cases, and glass lenses.
Can you please elaborate on this for me, as I am confused as to what you are recommending to do. Are you saying to plug in a connector to the existing trailer socket on the truck? If so, the lights would then be useless when towing, so I must not be understanding you correctly.
As for the current draw...that is why I recommended the relay setup that I am running. I am just confused, if there is an easier way, that's great, I would just like to understand it better.
If towing use the relay setup, if plowing, use the 7 pin as recommended.
If no reverse wire in trailer connection, pull power from the light socket and use it to fire a relay for the lights. In relays, bigger is better. Same advice about heat shrink butt connectors, Fluid Film and Dielectric grease from above.
In any event, if using this in conjunction with plow, or in an environment where the blower fan will be running, use LEDs as they draw much less power.
Most don't realize how much draw there can be on these trucks. Blower motor (biggest draw after starter), hydraulic pump, headlights, etc. all draw a lot of juice.