I have a 1993 Ford F150 5.0 with Auto tranny. My budget is constrained a bit at the moment because of an ex-wife who really likes court. I just picked up my truck from a mechanic. I have done a lot of work myself but just didn't have the time to fiddle around with it. The truck had a hesitation, but he unplugged the vaccum tube from the EGR and it's running a lot better. No stalling, no hesitation. He also replaced a plug wire that was grounding out. It runs ok now, but the CEL is on which is really annoying. He did say that the motor is a bit worn and I'm probably looking at a rebuild sometime soon. The truck does have almost 200k miles on it. Heads and tranny have been rebuilt recently but I have no idea about the shortblock.

There is a junkyard near me that has a few 302's that I can have for $150. I can do the teardown and rebuild myself but have no idea what the machine shop is going to charge.

Would you put in a rebuilt 302 shortblock? Would you go to a 351? What years can I look at if all I'm doing is the shortblock? I use the truck as my daily driver and I don't have anything to tow. I'm happy with the current acceleration in the truck so I'm not looking for something to hot rod. Not that I don't like driving a fast vehicle but it's a truck. If I wanted something fast I wouldn't have bought it.

I was told a new EGR valve and sensor would run about $400 for parts and that I should stick with Ford because of problems seen with aftermarket EGR parts.

I don't really want to spend $400 on an EGR and rebuild the engine.

I want my CEL off... (I'm not going to put electrical tape over it...)

What would you do?

Scott

 

You don't "need" the egr valve so you can just eliminate it or just block it off for now if you wish rather then spend the money to replace it if money is tight now. It will throw a code, CEL "on", but if its blocked it won't effect the way it runs. Remove the bulb if it bothers ya!

The egr system does allow for additional timing advance running at cruise speeds, just stay at/near the 10deg base setting to avoid spark knock and you'll be fine without it.

I bought a replacement for the wife's explorer from Car Quest, the valve and tube (DPFE system, tube is different) it worked fine and was no where near 400 bucks, IIRC was about 50 bucks for the egr valve.

 

And just because it's got 200k miles, doesn't mean it's worn out and ready for a rebuilt. Run it till you really have problems! Like blow by, low compression, excessive oil burning, etc. etc.

 

all good points. If I get a block off plate for the EGR and connect the vaccum tube back up won't that turn off the CEL and still allow it to run smoother?

I think I'll look into the 351w. The truck is running ok now so I can just run it until it dies and hopefully by that time I'll have the 351w ready. There's quite a bit of other things I need to do on the truck like going through the front end, new wheel bearings, maybe a U-joint or two.

Scott

 

I have heard that it is possible to run a 351w on a 302 computer, but is ill-advised. Many people suggest getting the 351w computer as well for the 302 to 351w swap. I do not know from experience on this, this is simply what I have read here. Hope ya get your truck runnin' the way you want.

p.s. my 351w only gets about 12-13 mpg with the c6 trans, just something to toss around and think about.

 

I would fix the problem that's causing the CEL, if the mechanic I was using suggested disconnecting whatever was causing the CEL I would get a new mechanic. It's going to be cheaper in the long run not to rebuild but to fix what's not working correctly on your truck, it might be that it has a blown head gasket (worst case scenario). That would cause a CEL but it should be diagnosed. If it was a blown head gasket and I didn't have the money I would donate the truck to a charity and take the mass transit until I could save up to buy a vehicle that doesn't need a new head gasket.

But that's what I would do, you'll do something different, (electrical tape anyone?) You'll soon forget that it's there.

 

If I get a block off plate for the EGR and connect the vaccum tube back up won't that turn off the CEL and still allow it to run smoother?

Yes if the egr valve is toast, its stuck open, froze up or it or its tube is leaking exhaust, or any combination of the above, blocking it off will prevent it from causing problems, the motor doesn't need it and it will run just fine without it. You can reinstate it at a later date when funds allow or just leave it.

However without the EVR connected to the valve so the computer sees the valve open and close via the EVP it will trigger the CEL. But you'll know why its on. You can buy and install a EVR eliminator kit to turn off the light but sounds like it'd be a temporary thing anyway so I wouldn't bother with that either.

EVR eliminator - Google Search

http://rjminjectiontech.com/EGR_eliminator.pdf

Replace the motor or restore the egr system at a later date as funds allow...or not, that would get you running right again if the valve itself is the problem.

To know what a given components purpose is, what it does how when it does it, allows us to post an informed responses.

 

What you need to do is pull the codes so you know what is causing the CE light. If it is EGR related then just cut out a piece of sheetmetal(pop can) and sandwich it between the EGR valve and intake, reconnect the vacuum line and you're done.

 

Just to let you know the Egr eliminator did not work on my 93 f150 302. The check engine light wound come on.
I tried the one on ebay and the RJM one. My egr line broke, so I clamped a spark plug in it (yes it is rig up)and put the RJM block off plate on. I zip tied the egr to the plastic inner fender out of the way and left it hooked up so there is no check engine light. You can take the erg line off and plug the hole with the RJM header plug or I read some where just to put a coin in the hole and use the end of the line.

 

Yeah the EGR eliminators don't work because the computer is looking for valve movement when it commands the EVR solenoid to open it, and the eliminator plug shows that the valve is closed all the time which sets a code. The ONLY way to disable the EGR system without setting a code is to install a blockoff plate between the valve and intake, but the whole system(minus the EGR tube) has to remain present and operational.

 

The only code I have ever gotten when running the self check is the code for everything ok. The CEL is only coming on after the vaccum hose to the EGR has been disconnected. I'm going to block it off, plug the vaccum line back in and then start a rebuild of a junkyard engine. If I go with a 351w is there a year range I should be looking for? Or for a 302, if I'm only doing the shortblock, what years should I look for?

 

1987 and up for a 302 and 1994 and up with a 351, that gets you a roller block in both cases.

 

i just plugged off my egr vacuum line an dont have cel on. what gives ?

 

Based on the instructions it will throw a self test code when the KOEO testing is performed but will not trigger a CM code for the valve failing to open during normal operation, acknowledged as "always closed".
I read where some posters stated they no longer suffered a CEL with the eliminator installed, but others that said they still did. I Kinda took that as the posters that did did something wrong or rather had wiring issues causing it to light the light, problem was not the the valve the EVR or EVP but rather something in the wiring/harness connectors causing their problems to start with.

And I agree, doesn't sound like the OP is sure what the problem is. First post made it sound like the EGR valve was plain shot dead rotted out, froze up what have ya. Doesn't sound like that with this statement.

So the CEL is on but throws no codes?

Regardless at this point, after reading that doesn't sound like there is a thing wrong with the egr system?

 

i'm clueless, thats why i'm asking