When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I think i got thinngs figured out! DP tuner, stage 1 single shot injectors, rebuild turbo and wicked wheel all from riff raff, anything else??? Question is what to do about the missing injector tip and doing head gaskets while i am right there??? Also do i need new injector cups???
If you are dealing with Clay, he will get you going in the right direction. From my experience, he won't try and sell you something that you don't need so you can trust whatever he says. He is a great resource so you are totally on the right track in my book.
So, I assume you were unable to fish out the broken piece with a magnet? Which hole had the broken nozzle? If you pull the heads then you'll need new head bolts or studs. Studs would be a nice upgrade if you think you will be adding more power later on. Really hate to see you pull the heads unless absolutely necessary. The pistons have a recessed center area so the piece could be in there or on the upper landing area (for lack of a better term). I wonder what the probability is for that piece to exit the cylinder and be downstream already? I am curious what other members here think....is there a chance the piece could have gone out the exhaust and settled in the exhaust manifold just before the up pipes? If so, then removing the exhaust manifolds would be the next logical step vs removing the head. (just throwing out ideas....)
At any rate, I am of the opinion that the factory up-pipes are a somewhat delicate design in respect to the upper sealing donuts. If you have already pulled your turbo, then you have already disturbed the up pipes at the collector and I think you will have a leak problem very soon after you re-assemble everything. So, at the very minimum, get yourself some new donut gaskets. Ideal would be to call Clay and order some IH up pipes because they are much better than the Ford OEM set up.
If you don't need your EBPV then you might as well gut the one you have and install a plug. They all leak eventually so since you have the turbo off. If you plan on towing something heavy then you might want the decel tune, if so then don't gut your EBPV because the DP tune needs that item to function properly.
Have you picked up the complete o-ring kit yet? I think Clay has those as well. If not then you can go straight to Guzzle's site (diesel0rings.com).
Here is a photo that may help you if you try and fish out that piece still (I stole a bunch of these cut-away photos from an earlier post this summer...)
Good luck!
Last edited by Shake-N-Bake; Dec 24, 2010 at 08:32 PM.
Reason: spelling
I think i got thinngs figured out! DP tuner, stage 1 single shot injectors, rebuild turbo and wicked wheel all from riff raff, anything else??? Question is what to do about the missing injector tip and doing head gaskets while i am right there??? Also do i need new injector cups???
I would think you'll want a 1.0 a/r exhaust housing with those injectors.
How important is it to get that exhaust housing? And no havent gotten the broken tip out yet but did get the bore scope home gonna try it tomorrow. The bad hole was second from the back passenger side. The only reason i am really thinking about pulling the heads and puttin gaskets in is that if horsepower and everything is going up i dont want to blow a head gasket and have to do it all over again! When this all happend it sounded like it had hit the turbo already thats why i originally thought it was my turbo! So chances are that its gone but would be nice to find it to help me sleep at night!
I would get a borescope and look into the combustion chamber to try and find that piece of injector tip.
The piston crown will be all chewed up from the interference when the piston comes up to TDC and jams the broken bit of steel into the piston.
If you are lucky it was blown out the exhaust valve, but then it has to make it's way past the turbo which will do some damage to the exhaust wheel unless it was just idling.
Turbo still spins at idle, but not 100,000 rpm.
with the injector out i would roll the engine over until both valves are closed on that cylinder, or remove rocker arms to close both valves. you then can use a rubber tip blow gun to pressurize cylinder and listen for air leaks. try and remove any oil or fuel before doing this and use a rag to help shield around blow gun and safety glasses are highly recommended.
...
The piston crown will be all chewed up from the interference when the piston comes up to TDC and jams the broken bit of steel into the piston.
.....
"piston crown"...that was the word I was looking for. Thanks Dan! The older I get, the more I forget.
This Hennessey Takes the Expedition Tremor's Off-Roading Capability to the Next Level
Slideshow: The VelociRaptor Expedition gains a lift, upgraded suspension, Brembo brakes, and trail-ready equipment while retaining the stock 440-horsepower EcoBoost V6.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.