Here we go, sunday morning out door to go to church, truck wont start, really need to go to church now..... Had some issues lately with the truck, did EGR delete, replaced injector wiring loom, #4 injector was weak just replaced it 4 days ago and the truck has ran great till this morning.... Drove all day yesterday parked it last nite and NO start this AM. Been reading and searching everybody seems to say HPOP, truck is throwing no codes that I can read with SCT Tuner, oil is good, just wondering if it was something I could have done when I put the injector in, but would have thought it would have showed up before now? Any thoughts????????

 

Sorry, this is on a 2005, 350

 

There is a no-start troubleshooting thread in the TEch Folder - towards the top of the long list.

I would start by verifying the charging system, batteries, and FICM voltage, as well as fuel flow to the secondary fuel filter. If you don't have one, a fuel prssure gauge is tremendously helpful.

Also, the SCT is not the best code reader - sometimes auto parts stores will loan out code readers.

 

Thanks Bismic.....the charging system is fine, the batteries was great when started, heading to check fuel filter after look at the Tech folder...

 

Check the FICM connections since the #4 injector is on the drivers side and had to be removed to replace #4 injector. It's possible that the connectors didn't get snapped in correctly and one came loose.

 

Help! (Bismic??) I'm in the same boat..........I replaced the STC fitting, did the EGR delete while I had it apart (welded both ends closed), put it back together and it started right up. Left it to idle for half hour, then went for a test drive...........spun the tires going out of the drive (like it had air in the fuel line?) then 2/10 mile it sputtered and quit, WILL NOT START, FIRE, SPUTTER SMOKE, NOTHING! Towed it back home and been working on it for 3 weeks! Checked the FICM; 20 V during the injector buzz test (sounds kind erratic) and right to 48 v, even while cranking. Removed the FICM and soldered it, no change. Is the 20v when the key is first turned on saying the FICM is NFG?

Low oil pressure is 100+ while cranking, dont have the fittings to check the hi side oil pressure or the fuel pressure (same fitting?), but the fuel pump runs for 20 seconds every time the key is turned on, and sprays fuel evrywhere if any fitting is opened. Any chance it's air in the fuel line? No matter how many times the fuel pump is cycled, it runs the full 20 seconds, + or -; it never stops "early" as if it reached shutoff pressure.

I'm getting suicidal (LOL!), I've never had any of my 4 PSD's that I couldn't fix if I kept at it, but I'm at my wit's end..........

 

Assuming your battries are supplying good voltage and current, the FICM is no good at 20V during any of the tests.

At least get the fitting for the fuel pressure gauge so you can check it manually - it is very helpful in troubleshooting.

 

I have mine going again, wuhooooooo.... Guess it was ashamed when my brother pulled it to the garage with his Dodge, which was most embarrassing I will have to say..... Can't really tell you what the problem was, took everything off driver's side again, removed FICM all seemed to be tight, had truck on battery charger for about an hour then thought just for the sake of trying, hit the key and it strted right up,,,,,So, guessing loose connections or low voltae in one or both batteries....

 

Thanks! It wasn't clear from everything I've read that the FICM was no good if it shows 20v (or less than 48v) at any time.

What's the deal with the fittings at the test port(s)....is it just that they are metric, or do I need to find them from Snap-On or a tool distributor?

As to the FICM, does it have to go to the dealer to get programmed if I replace it? What about if I send it off to Swamps or someplace to repair it, does that mean I can bypass the programming step? I found a (barely) used one for $500, but I worry about used electronics, and I've still got the programming issue.

Thanks again VERY much for your help - I don't really mean to bombard you with questions - but I always say "theres no substitute for experience", & I have none when it comes to FICM problems. Guess I've been lucky

 

Hey Stupage I had good luck with GB REMANUFACTURING. You send them your FICM and the rebuild it and then send it back to you. It does not even need to be reprogrammed for your truck if it is the one from your truck originally. I had also tried the re-soldering thing with no luck but they were able to fix it. They had mine back to me in three days. I had to go through RockAuto to get it done. They won't deal with you direct. I had mine done last June and so far so good. Only negative is back in June it only cost me $275.00 but I see they raised the price to $315.99