Ctubutis:......I really never cared for white faced gages, but you make them work!
That is a real nice job on the mechanical gages off to the sides........Looks Great!

 

Appreciate the thread, I have viewed that before. As far as your pic with the ops, what is the capped device to the right of your ops, its installed in the block?

 

Quote:

Originally Posted by Old93junk

Ctubutis:......I really never cared for white faced gages, but you make them work!
That is a real nice job on the mechanical gages off to the sides........Looks Great!

Thanks, man.

Quote:

Originally Posted by glovemeister

Appreciate the thread, I have viewed that before.

My stuff begins opn Page 11 and the text contains answers to some of your
questions.

Quote:

Originally Posted by glovemeister

As far as your pic with the ops, what is the capped device to the right of your ops, its installed in the block?

It's just a vacuum tree in the intake manifold that supplies manifold vacuum
to whatever I'd want to hook to it.

 

Mine reads 70lbs full scale and about 30@ the 'r'.
The oil pressure idiot light comes on when the low pressure SWITCH would turn off the fuel pump in a 'hot fuel handling' equipped truck. (about 7psi)

Glovemeister, when you do pull your pan remove the rear sump pickup and clean out ALL the plastic bits that came from the nylon teeth of the stock timing gears and the broken, brittle, exhaust valve seals.
They WILL clog the pickup, cause oil starvation and are a pain to get all out.

 

Heres a little update. Well I went out this morning, 7 inches of snow of the ground but it was actually quite "warm". I sprayed maf cleaner into the carb and started it up. It seemed to be doing its thing because on the snow by my exhaust I noticed carbon pieces. I also punched three holes into the top of a bottle of water. I filled it about, 1/8 full and sprayed it near the carb. It worked for a while but then the engine shut down so I assumed I put too much in but I was being pretty stingy with it. I was not working the choke/throttle in my situation cause I needed one hand for balance and one for the bottle. I let it dry out a while and fired it up it seemed to be quite a bit better. Granted it could be the placebo effect but to me it appeared that it had better throttle response, better idle, but I still had dieseling.

Moreover, I noticed as I let it idle for about 20 minutes-30 minutes it would start dying down I would just give it a bit of gas and it would keep running.

I also noticed on my pcv valve there appeared to be a switch that I could swing forward and reverse, or left to right depending upon how you look at it. Just kind curious as to what this does, or how it works?


Lastly, I had access to all the sending units and such and they need replaced same as the vaccumn lines. I did notice that if you are looking from the front of the truck towards the back, the left rocker/valve cover has a plastic relay type device near the pcv valve. It had two wires I believe they were red with a connected on each connected too nothing.

 

Forgot to add, dropping the pan requires pulling the engine right? I figure if I gotta pull the engine anyway, I am going to run some seafoam and atf both through the sucker. Get it all into the pan and then clean the pan real good, because if I notice leaking its already out and I'll rebuild it, or try my best.

 

As far as I know, you only have to lift the engine some, it doesn't need to be removed. Taking it out to replace gaskets is a good idea though.

I ran automatic transmission fluid through my truck (to fix a tapping lifter.. didn't work though..) which wasn't running and had sat for 5 years. So I didn't actually know if the ATF caused my oil leaks or not, It probably would have leaked anyway. I got under my truck the other day and noticed that I could have taken out more than half of the oil pan bolts by hand, so I tightened them all.

 

Can you post a pic?

 

It's a bitch to get the pickup bolts out of the oil pump with the pan in the way.
You can only lift the engine off the mounts so far before the bellhousing hits the tunnel.
The 4x4 crossmember doesn't help.

It is really important to get all the debris out of the pickup. (and there's a LOT in there. believe me)

 

Jim,

Are you stating its difficult to get the engine free, or its difficult to get the pan out with the engine in? I'll try and take a pic also.

 

It's very difficult to get the pan out with the engine in place.
You must unbolt the pickup tube with the pan dropped a bit before the pan will come out.
If that's not bad enough, you have to TRY and get it back together.
With the pickup loose in the pan you have to slip the pan back in, bolt up the pickup with its gasket to the oil pump, and then bolt the pickup tube support to the 3rd main bearing cap and torque it, all without dropping any fasteners into the pan and while working on your back under the truck..... unless you have a lift.

 

There is a picture of the piece on the left rockercover.

 

here is another unideftified piece on the water pump I believe. I assume its some coolant sensor.

Here is the pcv valve towards the right of the pic you can see the swing valve, or what appears to be one anyway.

 

I figure it I decide to ever pull the engine and pan and at some point I will, I am going to put an rv cam, double roller (this will get done regardless) headers, intake, new carb. With a new engine, fuel pumps, carb, there is not a whole lot that can go bad with the truck.

 

I'm not certain WHAT that is on your valve cover. Is there anything else connected to it other than the two red wires?

The Yellow thing on your thermostat housing is a vacuum control valve going to the distributor. If the engine gets too hot it increases the advance at idle and therefore rpm's, spinning the fan faster.

The photo of the thing on your PCV hose is too small/blurry for my old eyes.
Are you sure it is in the line, and not just some kind of support bracket?