Quick potential engine problem
Thread Starter
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Cargo Master
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 3,244
Likes: 40
Would carb cleaner do the same? I have heard the water trick but was hesitant, figure if I am going to be running an older truck I need to go ahead bite the bullet and pickup these old mechanic tricks. Just like a windex bottle and spray a bit at a time which will prevent hyrdo lock?
pedant
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 23,576
Likes: 38
From: EXTREME southwest CT
You would need to dump a jug down the carb to hydrolock it.
Spray as much as you can without stalling it.
Use your other hand to keep it revving.
Edit: No, Carb cleaner doesn't make steam.
Spray as much as you can without stalling it.
Use your other hand to keep it revving.
Edit: No, Carb cleaner doesn't make steam.
Moderator
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 22,415
Likes: 92
From: Denver Metro Area, CO
Get a real gauge
If you're questioning your oil pressure, install a real gauge so you can get some actual
numbers. Installation is just as described for the water temp, and there are both electrical &
mechanical variants.
I added an arrow onto Jim's picture:
numbers. Installation is just as described for the water temp, and there are both electrical &
mechanical variants.
I added an arrow onto Jim's picture:
Thread Starter
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Cargo Master
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 3,244
Likes: 40
Thanks again! I really don't know if I should question it or not as it appears to read correctly. It read correctly with both old oil and new oil. However, it may say correct and perhaps won't be. I figure I'll wire in aftermarket guages and new units all around as I am big on knowing whats going on visually if at all possible.
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Cargo Master
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 3,244
Likes: 40
Ok, so I have a sender and switch with both the coolant and oil pressure? I'm also kind of thinking that it may get hot lose oil pressure and shut down the pumps, I don't really have a reason for this but just a thought.
I started it up today didn't have time to run cleaner/water on it, but I noticed when I held the choke plate closed it would idle down real good, then almost stall. When I took the aircleaner lid off it appeared to idle really high. I have white condensation/smoke for a minute or so on start up. I figure I should rebuild the carb, or send it to one of those outfits that rectifies the known issues with the 4180, as well as rebuilding it. Would it be possible to tune my carb to performance, just like those guys do? If so, how would I go about that? Bigger springs, different rebuild kit?
I started it up today didn't have time to run cleaner/water on it, but I noticed when I held the choke plate closed it would idle down real good, then almost stall. When I took the aircleaner lid off it appeared to idle really high. I have white condensation/smoke for a minute or so on start up. I figure I should rebuild the carb, or send it to one of those outfits that rectifies the known issues with the 4180, as well as rebuilding it. Would it be possible to tune my carb to performance, just like those guys do? If so, how would I go about that? Bigger springs, different rebuild kit?
pedant
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 23,576
Likes: 38
From: EXTREME southwest CT
No there is only water temp sender.
There are two oil "senders". One provides a ground path for the dash oil pressure gauge. The other enables the fuel pump relay. (it opens at about 6-7 lbs)
For carb tuning I posted the link to flemworld.com in one of your other threads.
Just remember that you are not driving a stripped out Fox body car that only weighs 2000#.
There are two oil "senders". One provides a ground path for the dash oil pressure gauge. The other enables the fuel pump relay. (it opens at about 6-7 lbs)
For carb tuning I posted the link to flemworld.com in one of your other threads.
Just remember that you are not driving a stripped out Fox body car that only weighs 2000#.
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Moderator
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 22,415
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From: Denver Metro Area, CO
I understand the factory oil pressure gauge will read near the middle with pressure as low
as 5 lbs which, to me, isn't normal nor is it anywhere near "good" IMHO.
Speaking of "what is normal" one of the guys here recently mentioned something pretty
funny:
as 5 lbs which, to me, isn't normal nor is it anywhere near "good" IMHO.
Speaking of "what is normal" one of the guys here recently mentioned something pretty
funny:
Moderator
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 22,415
Likes: 92
From: Denver Metro Area, CO
those multi-hole brackets under the dash when I rebuilt my engine a few
years ago (I wanted to see exactly how this new engine was performing).
I eventually mounted 'em in the dash where the AC vents would be, here's
what they look like now (when the dash is put together) along with how I
hooked 'em up:
Thread Starter
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Cargo Master
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 3,244
Likes: 40
Ct,
Thanks a bunch buddy! I was going for a look exactly like that. I am a bit nervous of the difficulty in stalling such a thing though. As far ar your senders/sending units did you just plug and play and additional in or was there a way to go about this? Furthemore, did you knock out the filters and install brighter leds or is that stock?
Thanks a bunch buddy! I was going for a look exactly like that. I am a bit nervous of the difficulty in stalling such a thing though. As far ar your senders/sending units did you just plug and play and additional in or was there a way to go about this? Furthemore, did you knock out the filters and install brighter leds or is that stock?
Posting Guru
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 1,199
Likes: 1
From: Missouri
Would carb cleaner do the same? I have heard the water trick but was hesitant, figure if I am going to be running an older truck I need to go ahead bite the bullet and pickup these old mechanic tricks. Just like a windex bottle and spray a bit at a time which will prevent hyrdo lock?
Thread Starter
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Cargo Master
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 3,244
Likes: 40
Yeah I figured on running some sea foam. I was going to run it through the pumps, carb and oil originally. However, I have learned that in order to drop the oil pan I have to lift the engine in my Ford, so thats a last priority given that more then likely I will knock out sludge and make my truck leak like a sive. Main goal is to just get the truck running up to dd capability and then upgrade it.
Moderator
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 22,415
Likes: 92
From: Denver Metro Area, CO
The sending units are pretty much plug & play and fit into the existing tapped holes used by
the OEM variants (which are a standard pipe thread size but I forgot it, maybe 1/4" NPT or
some such).
I think if you read the following thread, a lot of your questions will be answered (likely to be
replaced by new ones (in a voluminous fashion, no doubt ;) but such is life):
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/7...te-gauges.html
the OEM variants (which are a standard pipe thread size but I forgot it, maybe 1/4" NPT or
some such).
I think if you read the following thread, a lot of your questions will be answered (likely to be
replaced by new ones (in a voluminous fashion, no doubt ;) but such is life):
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/7...te-gauges.html