Front wheels/ what causes this ?
Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 169
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From: Hatfield Ar.
Front wheels/ what causes this ?
{Moderator's Note - Both pictures now work}
Passenger side wheel kicks out bottom after backing up 10ft. and pulls in after rolling
forward 10 ft . Driver side seems OK Truck drives good going down the road and the
wheels are straight . Kicks out after backing up. I know the radius and axial bushings
need replacing trying to wait till warmer weather to do bushings.
Is this caused by the bushings , ball joints , wheel berings or all of the above ?.
The first pic is after backing up , the second is after pulling forward
Wheel goes straight after moving forward a bit
Any suggestions most appreciated thanks
Passenger side wheel kicks out bottom after backing up 10ft. and pulls in after rolling
forward 10 ft . Driver side seems OK Truck drives good going down the road and the
wheels are straight . Kicks out after backing up. I know the radius and axial bushings
need replacing trying to wait till warmer weather to do bushings.
Is this caused by the bushings , ball joints , wheel berings or all of the above ?.
The first pic is after backing up , the second is after pulling forward
Wheel goes straight after moving forward a bit
Any suggestions most appreciated thanks
Last edited by ctubutis; Dec 17, 2010 at 06:10 PM. Reason: Fix line breaks & pix
Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 169
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From: Hatfield Ar.
sorry pics didn't workout
The pic that did make it is after pulling forward and the wheel looks straight .
When i back it up a bit the bottom of the pasanger wheel kicks out and the wheel dosn't look straight . Sorry for the mix up and thanks for any input .
When i back it up a bit the bottom of the pasanger wheel kicks out and the wheel dosn't look straight . Sorry for the mix up and thanks for any input .
Post Fiend
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 8,521
Likes: 16
From: Lost
A combination of bad radius arm bushings, and axle pivot bushings will compound this issue. But, the design of the twin I-beam/twin traction beam front suspension does allow for this to occur. The radius arm bushings brace the axle halves from moving rearward, but do allow a little flexing towards the front. This usually only shows up during backing up while turning, especially if the brake pedal is pushed during this manuver.
A buddy of mine used to refer to this situation as a "typical sprawling ford".
Replacing the radius arm bushings (and axle pivot bushings, if needed) should minimize this condition. But it will always exist slightly. The front end is a bit out of alignment during a backing + turning and/or braking condition.
A buddy of mine used to refer to this situation as a "typical sprawling ford".
Replacing the radius arm bushings (and axle pivot bushings, if needed) should minimize this condition. But it will always exist slightly. The front end is a bit out of alignment during a backing + turning and/or braking condition.
Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 169
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From: Hatfield Ar.
So i guess this condition would be present when in four wheel drive "trying to pull and not being pushed". Seems like a week spot in the frontend. I'm thinking heim joints would eliminate this weakness in the front ends . I'll be checking the jy for scraped forklifts that use heim joints 1" union and female end.
Thanks rogue for the explanation and reply.
Thanks rogue for the explanation and reply.
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Post Fiend
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 8,521
Likes: 16
From: Lost
The condition is bery minial under the condition of the front axle pulling, with good radius arm bushings, but yes it would exist slightly. The thing is, anywhere that 4wd should be engaged, will have loose enough surfaces to allow the tires to slip, so wear isn't an issue.
The newer redesigned radius arm bushing go a long way towards minimizing this as well.
The newer redesigned radius arm bushing go a long way towards minimizing this as well.
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Posting Guru
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 1,509
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From: Wagener, SC
What differences? Is that an across the board re-design? I just had my bushings redone, using stock list NAPA bushings. My 4x2 is a rural area dd.
Post Fiend
Joined: Dec 2007
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From: Lost
There are a number of manufacturers that offer "problem solver" or similar type named bushings. They're usually made from a harder material, and some even have the ability to add a bit more camber.
With a 2wd, the stock bushings are fine. Most of the 4wd guys seem to prefer going to polyurathane stuff like energy suspension sells.
With a 2wd, the stock bushings are fine. Most of the 4wd guys seem to prefer going to polyurathane stuff like energy suspension sells.
Freshman User
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 30
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From: St Louis, MO
*grin* Our 1986 looks worse than that but drives like a dream so we don't mess with.
I've had the entire front end up in the sir and checked all the bushings and connections. Everything is nice and tight which I thought was odd as it is all original. But she is lubed every three months whether she is driven or not.
Sarge
I've had the entire front end up in the sir and checked all the bushings and connections. Everything is nice and tight which I thought was odd as it is all original. But she is lubed every three months whether she is driven or not.
Sarge
Junior User
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 94
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From: Oklahoma
Had the same problem on my '84 F-150 4X4. Replaced the axle pivot bushings and fixed the problem. However, if your ball joints are in bad shape, they can also contribute to this scenario. If ball joints were your problem though, I would think your 'sprawling' condition would exist whether you were backing up or going forward.
