Need recommendation for headers
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 1,338
Likes: 6
From: UPSTATE NY
well the problems youre going to run into with big jungle gym headers is on the driver side its a real pain to finaggle them up and around the steering gearbox.
and on the passenger side its close to impossible with the starter in the way. i had to remove my starter, and move it up into place with the headers, then bolt everything in. it really is a nightmare. so try and go with the shorty headers, make sure they come with a flange, so the exhaust shop doesnt just weld a pipe to the headers, they weld the pipe to another flange and then bolt the flange onto the header, so you can service it someday.
then you have to worry about buying it cheap, buying it twice.
mine are hooker competition cheap autozone special. and even still, they were $220 fricken dollars. they will rust after a few years, and ontop of that there is no ceramic coating on them so they cook your starter, power steering gearbox, and in the summer they cook your whole friggin engine bay. i have a set of la cucaracha horns that are pretty far away from the headers, they are bolted to the inner fender. and they got warped from the heat. and then after all thats set and done you've got to worry about gaskets. the felpros are crap. maybe if your manifolds are laser straight, and your headers are high dollar and will never warp like mine did, then you'll be leak free. otherwise i would recommend going with some good gaskets. the cheaper headers are made out of cheaper metal and they warp and leak.
when i am ready to redo my exhaust the company i'll probly go with is called remflex. they squish and are "supposedly" gauranteed leak free. someday, when im ready, its going to be probably some doug thorly ceramic coated shorty headers with the remflex gaskets, 2 1/2" down the line, all mandrel bends, tig welds, flowmaster mufflers, chrome tips. but once you start adding all that cost up its horrific.
and on the passenger side its close to impossible with the starter in the way. i had to remove my starter, and move it up into place with the headers, then bolt everything in. it really is a nightmare. so try and go with the shorty headers, make sure they come with a flange, so the exhaust shop doesnt just weld a pipe to the headers, they weld the pipe to another flange and then bolt the flange onto the header, so you can service it someday.
then you have to worry about buying it cheap, buying it twice.
mine are hooker competition cheap autozone special. and even still, they were $220 fricken dollars. they will rust after a few years, and ontop of that there is no ceramic coating on them so they cook your starter, power steering gearbox, and in the summer they cook your whole friggin engine bay. i have a set of la cucaracha horns that are pretty far away from the headers, they are bolted to the inner fender. and they got warped from the heat. and then after all thats set and done you've got to worry about gaskets. the felpros are crap. maybe if your manifolds are laser straight, and your headers are high dollar and will never warp like mine did, then you'll be leak free. otherwise i would recommend going with some good gaskets. the cheaper headers are made out of cheaper metal and they warp and leak.
when i am ready to redo my exhaust the company i'll probly go with is called remflex. they squish and are "supposedly" gauranteed leak free. someday, when im ready, its going to be probably some doug thorly ceramic coated shorty headers with the remflex gaskets, 2 1/2" down the line, all mandrel bends, tig welds, flowmaster mufflers, chrome tips. but once you start adding all that cost up its horrific.
Senior User
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 198
Likes: 0
From: Vacaville, Ca
I put Dynomax Headers on my 70 F350 camper special had to lift the left side of motor a few inches to get them in but fit fine, my only real complaint is the left pipe is to close to the shifter rod & I worry about heat transfer into the transmission
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