Good sources for remanufactured 6.9?
Find an 86 or 87 6.9 in a salvage yard and build it yourself.
87 would be the best year, it has all the upgrades like the 7.3 style rockers and new style glow plug controller.
Depending on your local shop rates, it will probably be cheaper than a reman.
If you can do the wrenching yourself, I know it will be.
87 would be the best year, it has all the upgrades like the 7.3 style rockers and new style glow plug controller.
Depending on your local shop rates, it will probably be cheaper than a reman.
If you can do the wrenching yourself, I know it will be.
Find an 86 or 87 6.9 in a salvage yard and build it yourself.
87 would be the best year, it has all the upgrades like the 7.3 style rockers and new style glow plug controller.
Depending on your local shop rates, it will probably be cheaper than a reman.
If you can do the wrenching yourself, I know it will be.
87 would be the best year, it has all the upgrades like the 7.3 style rockers and new style glow plug controller.
Depending on your local shop rates, it will probably be cheaper than a reman.
If you can do the wrenching yourself, I know it will be.
My problem is that I need 25 hours in a day! I like wrenching but the time spent doing it is time lost doing what I need to do to justify my existence. Ive never seen any IDI's in the yards around here. Im sure they appear from time to time but they are pretty rare in our yards.
7.3,s were prone to cavitation. I think I'm holding out for a late 6.9
I got the same Truck as you. I also have two 6.9l Motors for sale. Im in montana. Im selling them because I have already rebuilt mine. I have one out of an '86 F-250, and one out of an '87. If you need parts or the whole block. I can probably help you.
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Are any of those complete motors?
Sorry................ I was under the impression that they were bare blocks that you had stripped out for your rebuild. I cant PM you for some reason. Either you don't have enough posts or you have PM disabled. Please email or PM me your email so that I can find out more about these motors
I'm not trying to scare anyone, but I was scared myself the other night reading a post about remans. Crap, I can't find the post. I do know it was on here, can't remember which forum I happened to be on. But the thread was talking about how low-dollar shops have just cleaned the engines, takent hem apart, re-used the internals, and bolted them all back together with new gaskets. Used bearings and all....
But with that said, I bought a reman 352 FE for my '65 and my Dad bought a reman. 258 I6 for the Jeep. We bought both motors from S&S, and both are running great after 2 years.
Ford 421 Engine (V8, 421 cid, 6.9L)
But with all that said, you mght consider buying an 86 or 87 6.9 and bringing the entire engine to a local machine shop and have them rebuild it. My buddy just bought a used 87 6.9 for $350. When you get it back, it'll be essentially a remanufactured engine. I talked to my local machine shop last winter. They said I could bring them the entire engine and they would give me back an entire rebuilt engine. Or I could give them the parts I wanted machined and do the dis-assembly and re-assembly myself. They didn't care. In your case, you might consider giving them the entire engine.
But with that said, I bought a reman 352 FE for my '65 and my Dad bought a reman. 258 I6 for the Jeep. We bought both motors from S&S, and both are running great after 2 years.
Ford 421 Engine (V8, 421 cid, 6.9L)
But with all that said, you mght consider buying an 86 or 87 6.9 and bringing the entire engine to a local machine shop and have them rebuild it. My buddy just bought a used 87 6.9 for $350. When you get it back, it'll be essentially a remanufactured engine. I talked to my local machine shop last winter. They said I could bring them the entire engine and they would give me back an entire rebuilt engine. Or I could give them the parts I wanted machined and do the dis-assembly and re-assembly myself. They didn't care. In your case, you might consider giving them the entire engine.
I bought a 7.3 turbo complete drop in motor for just under 7000 dollars.
Blew three of them up in 28,000 miles.
I tore the fourth one down before I installed it since my warranty was almost up.
By the time the heads came off, I refused to install the engine.
Intake bolts stripped out.
Exhaust manifold bolts broken or stripped.
Sleeves dropping down in the block, and the engine had never been started.
The sleeves are what the fire ring sits on, so since the sleeves dropped, the head bolts were not at anywhere near the correct torque values.
Several gaskets had extra holes in them where they punched bolts through the gaskets that were misalligned.
I did all of the disassembly and reassembly myself.
Just took what was needed to the machine shop to get what I wanted done to it.
I am running almost four times the boost of the reman engines, lots more RPM's, lots more fuel.
Off the top of my head, 75,000 miles or so and still going strong.
I have developed an oil leak I need to track down, but it's way to cold and way to snowy to worry about that right now.
Matter of fact, I gotta go fire the beast up and go plow right now.
Blew three of them up in 28,000 miles.
I tore the fourth one down before I installed it since my warranty was almost up.
By the time the heads came off, I refused to install the engine.
Intake bolts stripped out.
Exhaust manifold bolts broken or stripped.
Sleeves dropping down in the block, and the engine had never been started.
The sleeves are what the fire ring sits on, so since the sleeves dropped, the head bolts were not at anywhere near the correct torque values.
Several gaskets had extra holes in them where they punched bolts through the gaskets that were misalligned.
I did all of the disassembly and reassembly myself.
Just took what was needed to the machine shop to get what I wanted done to it.
I am running almost four times the boost of the reman engines, lots more RPM's, lots more fuel.
Off the top of my head, 75,000 miles or so and still going strong.
I have developed an oil leak I need to track down, but it's way to cold and way to snowy to worry about that right now.
Matter of fact, I gotta go fire the beast up and go plow right now.
I would check with a Ford dealer. I checked on a rebuild kit through Ford and it was priced pretty right. About $1100 for Pistons, rings, gaskets, oil cooler, rod and main bearing. Last time I checked at Ford I could get a long block for like $4000. I do know somebody so I am positive I wasn't getting list prices. That is re-manufactured not rebuilt. There is a difference by what I have told over the years by parts guys.
I bought a 7.3 turbo complete drop in motor for just under 7000 dollars.
Blew three of them up in 28,000 miles.
I tore the fourth one down before I installed it since my warranty was almost up.
By the time the heads came off, I refused to install the engine.
Intake bolts stripped out.
Exhaust manifold bolts broken or stripped.
Sleeves dropping down in the block, and the engine had never been started.
The sleeves are what the fire ring sits on, so since the sleeves dropped, the head bolts were not at anywhere near the correct torque values.
Several gaskets had extra holes in them where they punched bolts through the gaskets that were misalligned.
I did all of the disassembly and reassembly myself.
Just took what was needed to the machine shop to get what I wanted done to it.
I am running almost four times the boost of the reman engines, lots more RPM's, lots more fuel.
Off the top of my head, 75,000 miles or so and still going strong.
I have developed an oil leak I need to track down, but it's way to cold and way to snowy to worry about that right now.
Matter of fact, I gotta go fire the beast up and go plow right now.
Blew three of them up in 28,000 miles.
I tore the fourth one down before I installed it since my warranty was almost up.
By the time the heads came off, I refused to install the engine.
Intake bolts stripped out.
Exhaust manifold bolts broken or stripped.
Sleeves dropping down in the block, and the engine had never been started.
The sleeves are what the fire ring sits on, so since the sleeves dropped, the head bolts were not at anywhere near the correct torque values.
Several gaskets had extra holes in them where they punched bolts through the gaskets that were misalligned.
I did all of the disassembly and reassembly myself.
Just took what was needed to the machine shop to get what I wanted done to it.
I am running almost four times the boost of the reman engines, lots more RPM's, lots more fuel.
Off the top of my head, 75,000 miles or so and still going strong.
I have developed an oil leak I need to track down, but it's way to cold and way to snowy to worry about that right now.
Matter of fact, I gotta go fire the beast up and go plow right now.
My Dad ownes an automotive machine shop so I might be biased but I'd rather be hands-on/face-to-face with my engine builder. I'd also rather give my money to a good local buisness owner than an "engine rebuild factory."
Amen to that. Tear down one of those mass rebuild engines. It reads like a guide on how not to rebuild a motor. Do my own that way I know every bolt is torqued right, not stripped and the proper parts replaced. For a good cheap rebuild, install new bearings, rings, gaskets, o-rings, thermostat, oil, filters oil pump, chain, lifters, check the valve guides. Do it yourself would run @$400.
VT247
VT247
This pretty much sums up how I feel about almost anything done by "mass rebuilders."
My Dad ownes an automotive machine shop so I might be biased but I'd rather be hands-on/face-to-face with my engine builder. I'd also rather give my money to a good local buisness owner than an "engine rebuild factory."
My Dad ownes an automotive machine shop so I might be biased but I'd rather be hands-on/face-to-face with my engine builder. I'd also rather give my money to a good local buisness owner than an "engine rebuild factory."







