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not much heat.

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Old Dec 13, 2010 | 10:41 PM
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ExtrmZ
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not much heat.
The temp is getting down there now(around -12 right now) and it sucks when there's not much heat coming out. The heater core flows nicely, the thermostat is brand new. What could cause this problem. My idea was that the coolant is never getting to the heater core. There is a plastic connecter on the heater hose that t's off into the intake manifold. Could that be plugged, or stopping flow to the core?

any ideas?
 
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Old Dec 13, 2010 | 10:46 PM
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SleeprLegend
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From: Moody, AL
Originally Posted by ExtrmZ
The temp is getting down there now(around -12 right now) and it sucks when there's not much heat coming out. The heater core flows nicely, the thermostat is brand new. What could cause this problem. My idea was that the coolant is never getting to the heater core. There is a plastic connecter on the heater hose that t's off into the intake manifold. Could that be plugged, or stopping flow to the core?

any ideas?
Check your vacuum lines. There is a box in the passenger side corner of the engine compartment just under the front window that actually manually opens a valve. This uses a vacuum line to work.

I also had to bleed my cooling system for almost 30 minutes to get all the air out.
 
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Old Dec 13, 2010 | 11:05 PM
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when i shut the truck off i can hear coolant gurgling back into the heater core.. what is the best way to bleed the cooling system?
 
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Old Dec 13, 2010 | 11:17 PM
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SleeprLegend
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From: Moody, AL
Originally Posted by ExtrmZ
when i shut the truck off i can hear coolant gurgling back into the heater core.. what is the best way to bleed the cooling system?
I used a vise grip loosely on the overflow tank tube so that the fluid did not fill the tank, and that way you can keep the fluid level at the top of the cap opening of the radiator. Then remove the radiator cap and sit back with a bottle of coolant, funnel, and a beer for about 30 minutes. Be ready to add coolant any time the level drops. Some will overflow out with this setup, but wait until the engine is all cool and you can wash all the extra fluid away. Dont put the cap back on until the fluid is starting to spit and hiss out of the cap opening. Also make sure the temperature guage is reading in the normal range. Make sure you do not shut off the engine before reinstalling the radiator cap. Remove the vise grips, top off the overflow tank, and re check the over flow tank after a full cool down.

I have an upgraded cooling system and I suspect this to have made my bleeding operation take much longer than a stock truck.
 
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Old Dec 13, 2010 | 11:19 PM
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wouldnt the coolant overflow the radiator when it got to operating temp?
 
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Old Dec 13, 2010 | 11:28 PM
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SleeprLegend
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From: Moody, AL
Originally Posted by ExtrmZ
wouldnt the coolant overflow the radiator when it got to operating temp?
It does, but that is when all the air bubbles start coming out.
 
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Old Dec 13, 2010 | 11:39 PM
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alright sounds like a nice project for friday night.

thanks for the help, ill post with results
 
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Old Dec 14, 2010 | 06:54 PM
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also check to see that your upper rad hose isn't collapsing. I had a 79 Ranchero that had hardly any heat. Noticed that the upper hose was sucking in, replaced it and suddenly I had full heat
 
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Old Dec 18, 2010 | 11:08 PM
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upper hose seems to be holding its shape, i think a pin sized hole where the tank meets the core is causing pressure to leak out, leaving me with no heat..
 
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