I tested my coolant yesterday and there are ZERO SCAs in the coolant so I'm going to flush the system (flush heater core separately) install this new radiator and a new thermostat. I want to add 2 things. 1) A coolant filter and... 2) A heater core bypass valve to provide better A/C cooling to the cab during very hot weather (like Arizona).

I have a very new (slightly used) good quality copper/brass radiator from an F350 7.3L idi (automatic transmission) parts truck. This radiator has an extra coolant fitting on the passenger side (plugged) as shown in the photo. It appears to accommodate a ½ inch or 5/8 inch hose. I want to install this radiator in my 87 F250 with a C-6 and I want to make full use of this extra fitting as mentioned in the topic.


From what I've read, I think this would typically be used with an E40D or 4R100 series transmission (maybe the later models or Power Strokes?) with a hose from this connection to a heater bypass valve in the hose going into the heater core. I read in another forum (99 and later Power Strokes) that this bypass valve is controlled by the A/C controls (electronic I presume) and the heater core is bypassed when A/C is turned to MAXimum setting in order to provide colder air to the cab. I've also read that it is used to divert hot coolant from the engine head to the transmission fluid heat exchanger (in the bottom radiator tank) to bring the transmission up to operating temperature more quickly. Someone else commented that this was not necessary and that is not it's function so I don't really know which function it serves (?)





I have a couple of QUESTIONS:

1) I understand that coolant filters require a low rate of flow so they can't be installed in-line in a single heater hose (too much flow and pressure) and typically would be installed between the two heater hoses (a parallel connection) . Maybe they can be installed parallel to a single hose- I'm not sure. Instead of that, I plan put a 'T' fitting in the heater core return hose (hose that goes back to the water pump) and run a hose from that 'T' through a coolant filter and then down to this radiator fitting.

In my perception that would only allow as much flow and pressure through the filter as the filter is able to handle and would actually be BETTER in two ways, than installing a filter across the two heater core hoses... A) Hot coolant would not be diverted away from the heater core (to go through the filter) and I would get better heat in the cab during cold weather... B) The filter would get more coolant flow through it this way than if connected across the two heater hoses and it will still be at low pressure/volume. As the filter gradually plugs up the flow through the 'T' to the water pump would increase and eventually all go to the water pump (when the filter gets plugged).

That sounds good to me BUT in a typical installation of a filter between the two heater hoses, there is still a full flow of coolant back to the water pump, no coolant is diverted. I will be diverting some of the coolant flow away from the return hose through the filter and back to this fitting on the radiator.

My CONCERN is the possibility of creating cavitation in the water pump by reducing that flow. I would hope that the water pump will just pull more coolant from the main (lower) radiator hose to make up the difference but I'm not sure about that.

Does anyone see a potential problem with routing the hoses this way?

That's the only thing I have to figure out before I install a filter using that radiator fitting or even a heater bypass using that fitting. If I install a 'T' that has a small fitting to the filter, like 3/8” or less I could reduce the amount of coolant diverted to the filter. Back to the intended design purpose of that extra fitting on the radiator, it would seem that this was only used intermittently, either to quickly warm up the transmission or as a heater core bypass for the MAX A/C setting.

I don't want to sacrifice a water pump to premature failure in order to have a coolant filter. My main reason for using a coolant filter is to use an SCA pre-charged filter so I don't have to mess with testing and adding SCAs so frequently. (convenience) IF it keeps the system cleaner and prolongs the service life of parts that's an added benefit.

2) Heater core bypass: I plan to install that on the heater core side of where the 'T' fitting for the filter will be so that when I isolate the heater core from the circuit (block the coolant to the heater core) the coolant will still flow through the 'T' back to the water pump and also flow through the filter back to that lower radiator fitting.

For the present time, since I spent a lot of money on parts this month I can't afford to buy the filter assembly and bypass valve parts until November or December so I am just going to run a length of hose from this radiator fitting up to the area of the heater core and put a plug in the end of the hose until I figure out how I am going to do all of this plumbing and then buy the parts I need later. I'll tie this added hose (temporarily) somewhere down low so it will fill with coolant rather than being an air trap – until I am ready to use it. I'm installing it now so I don't have to sacrifice my new coolant to install it later.

So right now I am looking for ideas on how to install the filter and then a heater core bypass.

Regarding the heater core bypass, I want to come up with something that is not so ugly, cluttered and crude looking as ball valves with big manual levers. I'd like to figure out a way to use a valve and actuator (maybe two of them required) that can be mechanically, electrically or vacuum controlled so I'll be spending some time trying to figure this part out.
Has anyone else thought about or used OEM bypass valves/actuators designed for this purpose?

Thanks in advance for any thoughts or advice!

 

That extra fitting on the bottom of the radiator was used to help warm up the auto transmission cooler quicker in cold weather on our trucks. It may serve another purpose on the Super Duty? To the best of my knowledge, there isn't any real coolant flow through it. It just dead ends next to the internal trans cooler.

These are the valves that I plan to use for my coolant filter install
http://www.ebay.com/itm/301064118558?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AITBetter than a regular sized ball valve anyway, IMO.

 

Thank you for your comments. If that is not a removable plug it is certainly a surprise to me. I was basing that perception upon a photo I saw in a Power Stroke topic of an Aluminum Radiator with welded aluminum tanks which had a fitting of the same size and location which had a removable threaded plug and the truck owner, IIRC (If I Remember Correctly) was considering using it for a filter hose or a heater bypass. I think it was a 'Champion' radiator similar to this one:



I don't see how a plugged fitting like the one in my photo could transfer any heat with no coolant passing through the hose into the tank. It would just be static fluid and would take a very long time to warm up down the hose to that fitting. Therefore it must be a removable plug. The tube is soldered directly to the brass hex. I need to clean it up and get a better look but I THINK I can put a wrench on the brass hex and unscrew it and then install a fitting of my choice. I didn't want to do this right now because I've been up all night and really tired but I have to solve this right now! Wait here for a few minutes- I'll be right back!

YUP! I can see the brass threads behind the brass hex so the whole fitting unscrews from the radiator.

To heck with sleep, I'm going to take it outside, spray some de-greaser on it and hose it off. Gonna go buy a 1/8 in. brass pressure nozzle for the garden hose I bought yesterday at the thrift store and clean it up.

Going to reduce the 1/8 in nozzle size to get a finer high pressure spray. I can fine tune it to have a tiny pressure washer for cleaning stuff under the truck without getting myself soaking wet. I'll let you know how/if it works!

Oh yeah, I need an on off valve behind the nozzle too! Thanks for showing me those tiny valves! Those are nice for a filter assembly. I used to use big ones for these pressure nozzles but I'll figure out how to use a small one. Actually I won't have time to make that before dark so I'll go out and clean the radiator now and make the pressure nozzle tomorrow.

My Moog tie rod ends and adjusters will be here tomorrow and I've had a return hose on the power steering pump leaking so it's messy under there and I need that nozzle to blast it clean.

 

I won't be of much help to you, too many unknowns for me, but for years I had some electrically operated heater-valve doohickies in my junk box. No idea from whence they came. But be of good cheer, at least they exist.

Oh.. one thought.. you might could prepare for your by-pass idea by measuring flow through the new hose you mentioned.

 

BP filters are great tools, but ONLY when used in a situation that brings out their advantages.

If you intend to greatly extend the OCI (oil change intervals), far past the OEM limits, then BP filters really do a great job of helping control the contamination levels to a point past where a traditional system would fail.
If you intend to follow the OEM OCI limits, there's no tangible benefit to the BP systems; they don't reduce the contamination levels significantly past what is nominally present. BP filters are tools to extend the OCIs, gaining the ROI via savings of fewer oil changes. As long as the testing (UOAs) is far cheaper than the oil change, and the lube is suitable for continued use, the ROI continues to grow. When your sump calls for gallons, this makes sense.

UOAs clearly show that BP systems used in a "normal" maintenance program (following OEM OCIs) to be of no benefit. They are spendy and return no wear rate reduction. This is because the contamination levels are not yet high enough to bring about a disparity in loading. Essentially, soot and other abrasives are both too small and too scarce in quantity to cause major wear. IOW - the BP element cannot stop damage when the soot is smaller than it's absolute rating. Hence, it shows no benefit in wear reduction.

Small sump systems stuggle to ever make the ROI pay off. By the time you run multiple UOAs, and amoritize the cost of BP system and additional elements, it pushes the break-even point further and further out.

Generally, BP systems don't make sense for most people. There are lots of guys that try them out, only to find out that they're not getting any tangible benefit.


PS ... Yes I am aware of the claims by FS2500, Amsoil and others that use the basis of the infamous GM filter study to tout their "advantages". That study, when you understand it's premise, is a horribly misunderstood and misquoted piece of work. The claimed benefits of finer filtration are based on some really bad assumptions that do not, in any manner, equate to today's filters, lubes, or maintenance programs. In short, the GM filter study is not based in a world of reality; it relies on some terribly absurd conditions that you'd never, ever see in someone's garage.

 

--- deleted --- Wrong thread. Got caught in the "related thread" deal

 

Thank you!

 

Posted here with attachment: Winter/snow tires for F-350.
Those folks are really wondering where it came from.. Please delete there as well.

Thanks.