This way too you can do some cleaning and painting!
rear main seal
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Freshman User
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 38
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rear main seal
any tips i have a 78 f150 that ijust got has an oil leak by the rear main seal is this a big job for me to do or should i get a professional the mechanic says if the cranks worn it'll still leak meanwhile this is leaking really bad all over the driveway it has a straight six 300 with an automatic tranny i have other problems too but this one i'd like to address first
Postmaster
Joined: Apr 2000
Posts: 2,838
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From: SD
rear main seal
If it were mine, I would pull the entire motor out, replace the pan gasket and rear main seal and reinstall motor. The 300 I6 is a very simple motor to remove.
The other option is to losen the motor mounts and raise the motor enough to remove the oil pan and reseal it while the engine is in the truck. It can be done, relatively easily, but I would prefer to pull the motor.
Either option is doable with hand tools, an engine hoist and a free Saturday...
I've never heard of a crank so worn that a new seal won't help...
Marty
The other option is to losen the motor mounts and raise the motor enough to remove the oil pan and reseal it while the engine is in the truck. It can be done, relatively easily, but I would prefer to pull the motor.
Either option is doable with hand tools, an engine hoist and a free Saturday...
I've never heard of a crank so worn that a new seal won't help...
Marty
Last edited by 73Custom; Mar 3, 2003 at 03:11 PM.
Elder User
Joined: Aug 2002
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From: CA
rear main seal
While it is very rare, the seal surface at the rear of the crank can sometimes wear to the point that a new seal won't fully seal. This happens more often on the damper. It is a mis-conception that the old seal hardens and cuts a groove in the damper. No matter how hard the rubber gets, it can't cut cast iron! What happens is that fine pieces of metal and other grit gets caught up between the seal and the crank or damper and that does the cutting. With a damper, thin sleaves are available to fix this, but you don't have this option with a crank because theres no way to mount them.
While I don't advise this, I fixed this problem on that same engine once by using fine emery paper in long strips to sort of shoe polish the whole grooved area, then I used a thin, homemade spacer (sort of like the shape of an O ring) maybe 1/16" thick between the seal and the block. You can't go much thicker or the rear cover plate might hit the back of the seal. The result was that the contacting lip of the seal was moved a little bit away from the grooved area. Like I say, I don't advise doing this, but it worked fine for me!
While I don't advise this, I fixed this problem on that same engine once by using fine emery paper in long strips to sort of shoe polish the whole grooved area, then I used a thin, homemade spacer (sort of like the shape of an O ring) maybe 1/16" thick between the seal and the block. You can't go much thicker or the rear cover plate might hit the back of the seal. The result was that the contacting lip of the seal was moved a little bit away from the grooved area. Like I say, I don't advise doing this, but it worked fine for me!
Senior User
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 339
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rear main seal
There is one other option and that is to locate a "Fel-pro" double lip seal. I have used one once before, but can't remember the part number. The therory behind this seal is for the twin lip's of the new seal to straddle where the old one had worn. Check with a part's dealer for availabilty.
Elder User
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 662
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From: CA
rear main seal
Hey Big1, that's pretty cool! Wish I knew about that seal before I did the above. It's basically the same idea, but without having to fool around with mods. Do you happen to know the distance between the lips? Is this seal commonly available?
Cool.
Cool.
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Senior User
Joined: Feb 2003
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rear main seal
In my area it is, but you have to ask for it. You need to go to part's store that know's what thier looking for. Place's like Autozone & Pep boy's aren't of any help around here, they are run by teenage guy's who can only use a computer. They don't have a clue about mechanic's.
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Elder User
Joined: Aug 2002
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From: CA
rear main seal
Well, it's not for me to judge anyone, but I know what you're talking about. Autozone, Pep Boys, Sherba's, Grand Auto, they all perfer college students who probably weren't alive when our older trucks were new.
It's a little like McDonalds. Ask them to hold the pickles and the whole place freaks out!! I always get the best results if I can find an OLD Napa parts house. Most of these guys are older and have seen it all come and go. I once went into a Pep Boys and asked for alignment shims for a very old Camero. They didn't know what the hell I wanted! So I walked a block to the old Napa store and, of course, they had them in stock. In fact, that same store had rear leaf spring bushings in stock for my 1953 Ford sedan!! Try finding those at Pep Boys!
Anyway, thanks for the tip on the seals. Polkat
It's a little like McDonalds. Ask them to hold the pickles and the whole place freaks out!! I always get the best results if I can find an OLD Napa parts house. Most of these guys are older and have seen it all come and go. I once went into a Pep Boys and asked for alignment shims for a very old Camero. They didn't know what the hell I wanted! So I walked a block to the old Napa store and, of course, they had them in stock. In fact, that same store had rear leaf spring bushings in stock for my 1953 Ford sedan!! Try finding those at Pep Boys!
Anyway, thanks for the tip on the seals. Polkat