Casting Number For 351W
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From: Eastern NC
Casting Number For 351W
I am looking at a 351W asking price is $350 it has 80,000 on it, never been rebuilt and looks to be pretty clean. Also comes with a C4 Transmission. The Block number is D4AE-6015-AA-16 and below that is 6K28. Any help on what this means would be great! Thanks.
Hotshot
Joined: Oct 2009
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From: Burbank, WA
Your block was cast at the foundry on October 28, 1976, so it would have been in some car built for the 1977 model year. It's considered a 1977 351. $350 is a reasonable price for an engine and transmission combination core, if it is truly as clean and low mile as it appears.
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Senior User
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From: Eastern NC
351
How can i tell if it is a Windsor? and what major modifications will i need to make when i put the 351 in? i have motor mounts, cross member, and transmission mount already, what about rear end? can i stay with the stock rear and will i have to modify the driveshaft or even use it at all? will eventially change all that out fund permitting. any advice is much apreciated. thanks 
I'll have the Roast Duck
Joined: Jul 2002
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From: Northshore, MN
FACT:
1976 351W has the air tubes coming off the back of the heads. I would think your 1977 351W will too. 302 intake is about 9 inches wide, the 351W is about 11 inches wide. The thermostat housing will sit a tad higher on the 351W, so if you can easily access the bolts holding it on, it's a 351W, if it requires an open end wrench to get to the lower bolt, it's a 302.
END OF FACTS
1976 351W has the air tubes coming off the back of the heads. I would think your 1977 351W will too. 302 intake is about 9 inches wide, the 351W is about 11 inches wide. The thermostat housing will sit a tad higher on the 351W, so if you can easily access the bolts holding it on, it's a 351W, if it requires an open end wrench to get to the lower bolt, it's a 302.
END OF FACTS
Hotshot
Joined: Oct 2009
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From: Burbank, WA
If the engine in question is the one in your picture, it's a Windsor. It looks just like a 302, only taller and wider, like havi said.
We don't know what you're putting it in, or what rear end you have currently. Assuming it's a Dana 44, it'll be plenty strong to withstand the power and torque of your new engine, especially through a C4 trans, but your gear ratio will likely be very low, which means your rpm's will be high on the freeway.
Plan on making driveshaft mods, period.
We don't know what you're putting it in, or what rear end you have currently. Assuming it's a Dana 44, it'll be plenty strong to withstand the power and torque of your new engine, especially through a C4 trans, but your gear ratio will likely be very low, which means your rpm's will be high on the freeway.
Plan on making driveshaft mods, period.
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From: Eastern NC
351
Its going in a 56 f100. It has the 272 in it. this is my first restoration, so i have no clue what im doing, the truck is in ok shape, needs a lot of body work/fender replacement. i figured i would start with the frame and engine and work my way to the body feder by fender. i have plans to tear the front end apart and get the old motor out, clean and sandblast the front part of the frame and then paint with POR-15, so i can install the new motor. I am trying to avoid pulling the cab but will be a project in the future (i deploy to afghani land feb 22). So my goal is to get that done and the new motor in before i go. i dont know if its feasable i just want to do it right but i dont know what right is? 
Cargo Master
Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 2,571
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From: Oxford, Indiana
That engine is definitely a mid to late 70's 351W. Judging by the front dress and motor mounts, I'd say Cougar/Thunderbird/Torino/LTD II. Installing the engine and transmission isn't rocket science, but there are a few things to watch out for. It can sit left or right of center in the chassis for steering, exhaust, etc. clearance, but make sure that it's parallel to the frame rails and not crooked. Also do a little reading on driveline angles. The rear of the engine needs to sit slightly lower than the front - usually about 2 or 3 degrees. The best way to do it is buy an inexpensive angle finder and measure the pinion angle of the rear axle at the pinion flange. Then set the drivetrain angle to be the same. John Niolon explains it much better here:
http://jniolon.clubfte.com/driveline...nephasing.html
http://jniolon.clubfte.com/driveline...nephasing.html
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