Then I owuld say you are probably correct to stay with what you have. I will say that the Fumoto valve is pretty stought and the threaded portion is thick and well made... as is the valve itself... but for safety sake... I would stay with a stock drain plug (just buy some extra copper crush washers which are the main cause for slow leaks in the OEM drain plug.

 

I have pulled a drain plug out and seen part numbers from the high pressure pump before. The piece would barely fit through the whole in the oil pan. I seriously doubt the filter will stop something of that size...

Yes if your truck's oil had been drained out of it it will not start. You have to have base oil pressure before you can have high oil pressure. But your gonna have to go back into walmart buy 15 quarts of oil, crawl under your truck get oil all over you hit your head throw somethin and it goes down hill from there. But what are the chances of that happening? And if your truck is runnin, your gonna be stranded somewhere because once you lose oil pressure its not gonna start back.... Like i said earlier im just givin my opinion on the reasons why not to, i have seen problems in the past. But it is an opinion everyone has one....

 

Thanks for the response! I definitely wasn't trying to discount your perspective. I really wasn't thinking about protection from a catastrophic failure (like the HPOP), but I know that does happen. As you said, sharing opinions is what this place is all about. I am comfortable w/ the risk personally, but it is possible to add a magnet to the bottom of the pan and still keep the fumoto valve. I have considered that, but still don't feel that the risk is great.

As far as brush hitting the valve and opening it, I am in BBC's camp! Especially if it has the lock ring. Minimal risk w/ brush (IMO again). Now rock climbing would probably be a different story.

 

I have put an earth magnet at the base of the drain plug. They will dam near support the engine and is only about a 3/8" in dia.

 

O yea a magnet would be the way to go. But u would have to take the oil pan off to get anything off the magnet. Like if u had a HPOP failure and u remove the pump and see pieces missing, u would have to remove the pan to get the pieces. But u could just replace the pump and fire it up and go from there haha. I guess i just dont see the advantages of the quick plug. I have access to lifts n such so i do not do much work on my back anymore. Im not tryin to be a jerk but why do you guys like the quick plug? I just figured it would be just as easy to throw a 19mm wrench on it and there you go. Like i said im not tryin to be a jerk im just curious to why yall like them, you may change my perspective on them...

 

O yea a magnet would be the way to go. But u would have to take the oil pan off to get anything off the magnet. Like if u had a HPOP failure and u remove the pump and see pieces missing, u would have to remove the pan to get the pieces. But u could just replace the pump and fire it up and go from there haha. I guess i just dont see the advantages of the quick plug. I have access to lifts n such so i do not do much work on my back anymore. Im not tryin to be a jerk but why do you guys like the quick plug? I just figured it would be just as easy to throw a 19mm wrench on it and there you go. Like i said im not tryin to be a jerk im just curious to why yall like them, you may change my perspective on them...

 

LOL - no worries for sure!

It is cleaner w/ the drain valve - absolutely no mess. Not that it is a BIG deal, but just better.

The real reason for me is for sampling the oil. I sample and analyze the oil every oil change. It is just a hobby type thing for me. The valve again makes it possible w/ no mess.

Some people have the valve w/ the nipple. Attach a hose and you can drain right into 1 gallon containers. VERY easy to transport and dispose of them.

 

Well..... See you did change my perspective. I bet that works perfect for sampling oil. Never thought of it like that. Thats why i love this forum!!!!!!

 

the appeal for me is strictly because of the mess. Last time i crawled under to just drain about a quart of oil to make room for an additive, and i ended up with oil all down my arms. Something i'm going to try and avoid from now on if at all possible. And since i'm going to start doing my own oil changes from now on ($125 at my dealer... no thank you), i'll gladly put in a little expense to save me some trouble down the road (i hope that doesn't end up backfiring on me! lol).

I did end up ordering the Fumoto valve today. I'm going to put it in and do an oil change before the holidays... i have about 3000 miles of driving i'm going to be doing from xmas to new years. But i'm going to keep the stock plug in the truck with me... just in case.

Thank you all for your inputs!!

Hey bismic, how do you analyze your oil? Is that something you do yourself? Or do you send it off somewhere?

 

I send it to Blackstone for analysis - around $20.

 

Google "Blackstone Labs" in Indianna.

Order a free kit(s) and the samples are $20 or $22.00 per sample sent in. Fast and reliable. I do it and transfer all my data into an Excel spreadsheet so I can see my own averages.

 

Doesn't the oil go from the oil pick then go straight to the oil pump? If this is so then it would pickup those metal particles and push it through the low pressure pump, not good.

I have had the Flumoto Valve and it is a great product but, it doesn't have a magnet to catch any metal particles.

 

Yes Oxman exactly. Thats what happened here pieces from the HPOP that failed a few months before it came to me got sucked into the gerotor style oil pump, at the front cover. It was all jacked up...

 

Well ........ we have already been through that if you read all the posts.

I previously acknowledged (post 18) the fact that the SMALL magnetic drain pan plug could offer some protection against the HPOP particles.

HOWEVER - you will get me on my soap box now!

The drain plug magnet is not that strong. It will NOT reliably protect from ALL particles generated from a catastrophic failure from being sucked out of the pan to flow through the gerotor (LPOP) pump - period. So under this scenario you will probably have a good chance of LPOP damage even w/ the magnet. Not to mention all the other damage that can be done by a catastrophic HPOP failure

It has already been posted that you could add a MUCH MORE powerful rare earth magnet on the bottom of the pan and get MORE protection for your LPOP (post 19).

FordMstrTech already mentioned that you would have to drop the oil pan to get the particles out. This could be true. However, if the drain plug magnet is really that effective, you can just reinstall it and pump the oil out of the drain pan w/ an aftermarket pump - ie flush the oil pan - several times of need be. This would be as effective as the drain plug magnet in place at the point of a catastrophic failure (which would usually shutdown the engine immediately). Anyway, IMO - YOU SHOULD DROP THE PAN OR THOROUGHLY CLEAN IT SOMEHOW WHENEVER YOU KNOW YOU PUT METAL CHUNKS IN THE PAN. Why would you depend on a small and marginal strength magnet to get out ALL the particles you know you produced?

A more practical discussion IMO would be the typical scenarios. For most of us, the material found on a drain plug magnet is just fuzz. It is not enought to hurt the LPOP.

If a person is worried about protection against all catastrophic failure mechanisms, you would add the much more powerful magnet (larger too) AND do regular oil analysis (which most people don't). In a number of cases, the analytical process can pick up an impending failure before it is catastrophic.

 

Dam Mark get down get down!!!

I would only look for it to protect a little, like a top of an injector snap ring that can easily get pass the pickup screen or maybe some metal particles that didn't get cleaned from the re-manufacturing process.

But the last 6.0 I owned had the valve on it when it came out.

I thought about putting a big magnet on the bottom of the oil pan, but it would pickup all kind of road metal.