99 F350 PSD 6spd Started stalling/bucking about 4 months ago. Not often, just everyonce in a while. Not neccesarily when it was cold or warmed up, maybe once a week. Yellow dash light would come on. Being a manual transmission it allways resarted immediately or wasnt completely shutting off. After turning the engine off the dash light is off and it runs fine. Two new fuel filters, no change. Replaced the crankshaft positioning sensor, worked fine for about a week. Then the problems started again. My personal mechanic took it to his work and put it on their computer, said it needed the camshaft positioning sensor and that the yellow light indicated it needed an oil change. Took it to Ford about a month ago and had them do the Ford recall replacement of the camshaft positioning sensor. All was fine for about two weeks and it all started again. Now the truck died and will not refire. The light for wait to start engine doesnt come on. My personal mechanic said the glowplug relay (10 months old) or fuse is probally out, but both have been out before and the light would always come on for about 10 sec. I checked fuses with a test light all maxi and mini fuses are fine.
This may be unusuall, but I have never have had lack of power, just the engine cutting out on occasion.
I'm leaning towards the wiring harness under the valve cover has come apart (harness was changed on both sides about 3yrs ago). Mechanic says not likely, he thinks the gpr went out and the new camshaft positioning sensor that Ford just installed is probally faulty. I really think the problems are all related. He informs me there just isn't many things that will cause a diesel to die while running (I've never ran it over 100 to have that sensor shut it down). Allthough he said we may have a wiring issue with the cam or crankshaft positioning sensors.
I've changed oil, level was not low. Mechanic says that CAT has a sensor that will shut the engine off if the oil gets too dirty, and he thought Ford had a similar sensor.
Do I need to reset an oil sensor now that I have changed the oil?
Can I get an accurate computer code reading if the truck doesnt start?
Guys I could sure use some input, I really need this truck, am I missing something?
I searched FTE for stalling and got links to the harnesses coming apart under the valve cover not being all that uncommon of a problem.

Thanks, CCC

 

There is no sensor for your oil on these so you can count that out. GPR won't cause an issue that you are experiencing. I would take a look at your UVCH on both sides and where the harness goes into the valve covers. Then maybe go back to an original black IH CPS, but only after checking everything.

 

Do what Clay suggested and report back and these guys will get you sorted out. Modern diesels (including your 7.3L) are electronically controlled and can quit running for many, many reasons. And there is no electronic indicator for an oil change. You mechanic doesn't appear to be a very good resource on these engines.

 

This is the key. It has nothing to do with the glow plugs or the oil. This indicates the PCM circuit is not being energized. Your mechanic does not seem to familiar with electronically controlled diesel engines if he thinks nothing will make a diesel shut down or not start for no reason.

Double check fuse #30 on your truck with the key on, or pull it and check for continuity across the spades. If it's blown, unplug the fuel bowl heater (plug on the back side of the fuel filter bowl), replace the fuse, leave the heater unplugged and turn the key to the on position and see if the WTS light doesn't come back on and the truck starts.

Is there any way to find out what actual codes your mechanic pulled with his scanner? A faulty CPS can easily cause the symptoms your describing for the cutting out. Chaffed wires at the ICP, IPR or 42 pin connector can also cause the same thing, but first we need to address the glow plug light and get you running again.

 

Subscribing.
F350-6 has you covered as the first step.
The wait to start light MUST come on when you cycle the ignition or the engine will not fire.

 

One major thing I forgot to mention is the keyswitch has been going out for over a year. If you lock it back it may take twenty minutes to get it to unlock and turn it forward. My mechanic has been reluctant to change it due to fear of deploying the airbags, as the fleet of fords he works on are not Superdutys. I talked with him last night for quite a while, and finally he asked if the "wait to start engine" light was the only light not coming on, and I had to think about it for a while, but I believe most of the lights are not coming on. It does have current to the starter, as the engine turns over. My mechanic has talked to a Ford service rep. and has found out that unhooking all the battery cables for 5 minutes will disengage the airbags. I plan to unhook the gooseneck trailer off of it today, push it into a shed, then Saturday I have set up to have the keyswitch replaced and I will post up what the results are. Hope this fixes the problem, but I doubt it will.

ccc

 

Changing the lock cylinder is the easiest thing in the world. Look on the underside of the lock and you'll see a little hole. Insert the key and turn it to the ON position. Don't start the truck. Insert a slender screwdriver or punch in the hole and you'll be able to depress a small retaining pin. Pull the entire cylinder straight out with the key still in it.

I've had mine out as have many members. I've never heard of the procedure deploying the airbags.

Chris made a good catch with your WTS light not coming on. If you have an electrical problem, a known problem with an ignition switch is as good a place as any to start troubleshooting. Do you have a multimeter or test light? I would test some circuits (like the aforementioned fuse #30) which are supposed to be hot when the key is on before I replaced the lock cylinder hoping for a cure.

 

You can get a new lock CYLINDER (it's NOT the electrical switch, only the mechanical actuator for it) for around $25 at most parts houses. The downside of that is that the same key will no longer fit the doors.

However, if you remove the door cylinders from the handle assemblies (a cinch to do, once you know how) and take them to an automotive locksmith, he can make your new ignition key fit them for a real reasonable price, likely under twenty dollars. However, if HE has to remove the door cylinders, or come out to your location, the price will be commensurately higher. Do some work yourself and save a bundle.

Pop

 

The 'sensor' is to have such a low oil volume as to not open the injectors. If your oil level is down 'around' 2 gallons (yes I said 2 gallons)( happened to me) then you will have big problem of sluggishness to the point it will not run or start. You do not have a 'low' oil problem from what your post says. If the oil is 'dirty/thick' that may contribute to issues of not opening the injectors. This is not your problem either....

 

Keyswitch ended up being easy as pie.

Just downloaded the Ford owners manual as I don't have one for a 99 F350 and found the passenger compartment fuse pannel: http://www.motorcraftservice.com/pub.../99f23og4e.pdf

and yes, it is fuse # 30 is blown. Have not yet unhooked wire from rear of fuel bowl to find out if that is the problem, but replacing the fuse didn't help, sounded like.

Did find the glow plug relay (smaller one of the two and located to the rear) was fried. I replaced it myself about 9 months ago.

The cheap crankshaft positioning sensor that I replaced is actually the camshaft positioning sensor. It didn't last and Ford ended up replacing it a few weeks later free of charge due to the recall.

I'll keep you guys posted on the progress!

Thanks for the help, CCC.

 

Unplug the fuel bowl heater (which you don't need) replace the fuse again and it should start right up. It really should be just that simple.

 

If that doesn't fix it test for wiring troubles. I had the same fuse blow this past summer, it was a wire under the driverside battery box. The wire had rubbed against the shock mounting and grounded. It went to a the brake master cylinder (I think abs), maybe worth a look.

 

Ok time for an update on the F350. Disconneted the fuel bowl heater and replaced fuse #30, replaced glow plug relay. She's back to running, problem is she is back to cutting out, stalling, or shutting off....I don't know what to call it. Stopped at a different truck repair center today as the service engine light was on and it was the worst the truck had ever run for me. He pulled up codes:
PO 470
PO 344
PO 603

He mentioned camshaft positioning sensor, back pressure, and PCM power interruption...don't know if these were the codes or if they were in addition to the codes he pulled.

1. What do the codes mean, couldn't find those in the stickies?
2. Would me unhooking the fuel bowl heater throw a PCM power interruption code?
3. He told me there is a camshaft positioning sensor (I assume front right side of block next to harmonic balancer) and a crankshaft positioning sensor. Is there both???????
4. So then the mechanic mentions...injector module relay coil....hmmm that sounds like what fuse 30 also protects. He said if it is bad I will need to take it to Ford, as it will need to be "burned" and he can't "burn it". What did burning it mean? I said it the relay was bad I assumed it would just shut down and he said no he has seen them intermittent.

Thanks again,
ccc.

 

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{{{{midnight1967
" Hi everyone i dont talk on her alot but i had a question about code po603. i have a diablo sport programmer and i usually run it with the 65 hp econo tune and there are no codes trown but today i put in the 85 hp tune and wemt a couple of miles , got into it a little bit and now its saying that code po603 POWERTRAIN CONTROL MODULE KEEP ALIVE MEMORY (KAM) ERROR, does this mean the pcm is bad?"
"PaysonPSD
Not to worry. Typical code when using a programmer. Your PCM is fine. For more info about P0603 just type 0603 in the Search This Forum box at top of threads list." }}}}
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I am cut-n-pasting some of this in.
My guess would be that the main problem is your cps, cam positioning sensor. If it is cold and wet where you are, I would wager that there is a little moisture getting past the seal of the cps and causing a hic-up. This will shut your truck down and make it run very badly. The Sensor itself may be just fine but the moisture in there is the problem. Take the sensor out and put a little vasoline on the rubber seal to seal it better.

This is very easy to change out. do you know where it is in the front of the engine?

 

Hooray for this site! I had almost the exact problem. About 1 1/2 hrs out of town doing about 70 the truck just turned off. Coasted to the side of the road and started right back up again. Drove a few miles and it hiccupped a couple times. It was rainy and 39 outside so I didn't want to chance it. Drove back home to switch vehicles, no problem the whole way back and no problem since (been about a week). Guess I'll try some vaseline on the cps seal.
Thanks FTE!!!

p.s. On the happy side, I told my wife about AutoEnginuity and she said "done, Merry Christmas"! so that's in the mail now!