High idleing after being driven
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High idleing after being driven
I got a 93 F-150 starts and runs good but after awhile it starts to idle high, shifts late and downshifts rough at times. I've hade smoke from the back of the engine at the bottom when I first got it but now its doing it again (assuming its because the cold weather) could it be a bad intake gasket causing high idle and smoke? i ask and show the guys at work and now the now it all's don't know anything. im sure i can get a straight answer from here. thanks in advanced for any answers and solutions.
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looks like exaust smoke blue i guess. guy at work says its oil but it dont smell like burning oil and it only does it when its cold. i cant get my head anywhere to see where exactly its coming from. maniflod gasket maybe? looks rusted out and sits under a/c compressor. just kooked it up this past summer and had to replace spring bucket. was known to rust out because of compressor maybe manifold too but the exaust isn't any louder.
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Joined: Aug 2006
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From: Sand Lake, MI
Blue smoke when its cold but stops when up to temp suggests valve seals need replaced.
Idle problems could be a vac leak, check all the vacuum lines. The IAC can cause idle problems.
Number of things can cause shift problems TPS, VSS, MLPS, PSOM and or damaged wiring.
Start by running the self test "KOEO" and checking for stored codes "CM", see what if anything the computer knows about it.
Ford Fuel Injection » How To Run a Self-Test
Idle problems could be a vac leak, check all the vacuum lines. The IAC can cause idle problems.
Number of things can cause shift problems TPS, VSS, MLPS, PSOM and or damaged wiring.
Start by running the self test "KOEO" and checking for stored codes "CM", see what if anything the computer knows about it.
Ford Fuel Injection » How To Run a Self-Test
Lead Driver
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 5,670
Likes: 13
From: Sand Lake, MI
Blue smoke when its cold but stops when up to temp suggests valve seals need replaced.
Idle problems could be a vac leak, check all the vacuum lines. The IAC can cause idle problems.
Number of things can cause shift problems TPS, VSS, MLPS, PSOM and or damaged wiring.
Start by running the self test "KOEO" and checking for stored codes "CM", see what if anything the computer knows about it.
Ford Fuel Injection » How To Run a Self-Test
Idle problems could be a vac leak, check all the vacuum lines. The IAC can cause idle problems.
Number of things can cause shift problems TPS, VSS, MLPS, PSOM and or damaged wiring.
Start by running the self test "KOEO" and checking for stored codes "CM", see what if anything the computer knows about it.
Ford Fuel Injection » How To Run a Self-Test
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Thanks Dan, i know a guy that said he will test it for me for $20 i hate to go spending money on trial and error. i just got done replacing spring tower, front shocks, 2 calipers, a rotor and breaks. I barely had the experience to do that but it was fun. luckily i got a shop and tools to work on it just don't have much time when I do so I want to study everything as much as I can so I don't run into any problems where it would put me at a stand still. Don't have the money to pay a mechanic so your help is appreciated. Thanks again.
oh, wheres a good place to start looking for a vacuum leak?
oh, wheres a good place to start looking for a vacuum leak?
Last edited by Jasonsb1980; Dec 9, 2010 at 04:34 PM. Reason: forgot a question
Lead Driver
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 5,670
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From: Sand Lake, MI
You can try looking at them but that's not ideal, one of the best ways is using a hand vac. Pull a vac on each vac circuit verifying it holds a vacuum. The factory plastic lines get brittle, best just replace them with rubber vac tubing.
Wasn't suggesting you throw parts at it in attempt to correct it, if you have a buddy that will test for you for 20 bucks, knows what to test and how to do the testing, that's not a bad way to go especially if you can help, watch and learn by doing for that same 20 bucks.
If not add about 20 bucks to that 20, buy a low cost multimeter and a Haynes or Chiltons manual to go with it and you'll be able to do it yourself. Just be sure the manual includes full wiring diagrams.
A hand vac can be bought cheap too, just a all around handy item to have.
Have you run the self test yet? What if anything did you find?
Wasn't suggesting you throw parts at it in attempt to correct it, if you have a buddy that will test for you for 20 bucks, knows what to test and how to do the testing, that's not a bad way to go especially if you can help, watch and learn by doing for that same 20 bucks.
If not add about 20 bucks to that 20, buy a low cost multimeter and a Haynes or Chiltons manual to go with it and you'll be able to do it yourself. Just be sure the manual includes full wiring diagrams.
A hand vac can be bought cheap too, just a all around handy item to have.
Have you run the self test yet? What if anything did you find?
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Finally gotten codes
This will make it muck easier to understand... well for some.
327-EVP low volts
628-Converter Clutch
121-Throttle Pos. volts
536-circuit failure
632-TCS Did not change
On top of all this the other day the odometer goes blank and error comes up (digital odo.) its dont it before but sair error 3 last time.
I'll hold the reset button and start it and E 08 6 comes up and if I hit it again 972CAL comes up. Any ideas on the issues? any help is appreciated
327-EVP low volts
628-Converter Clutch
121-Throttle Pos. volts
536-circuit failure
632-TCS Did not change
On top of all this the other day the odometer goes blank and error comes up (digital odo.) its dont it before but sair error 3 last time.
I'll hold the reset button and start it and E 08 6 comes up and if I hit it again 972CAL comes up. Any ideas on the issues? any help is appreciated
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I don't know about the smoke, but the idle can be caused by everything previously listed, or by the TPS. When the TPS goes bad, it becomes temperature sensitive and increases the electronic "throttle position" as the temp increases.
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