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Old Dec 6, 2010 | 07:25 PM
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Major screw up!!

I'm winding up a hydroboost conversion on my truck. When I went to bench bleed the new master, I grabbed the p/s fluid by mistake, and bleed it with that. Got it on the vehicle before I realized ... "man, the brake fluid seems thick."

Well, I panicked and sucked out the p/s fluid with a ear syringe, then bled the master at the lines to pump out the p/s fluid.

I'm going to try something new for me: Instead of pumping the air all the way through the system, into my caddy rear calipers which take a flaming act of congress to bleed, I just filled the lines with fluid from the syringe before reattaching, and then I'll bleed at the first junction, rather than at the calipers. It ought to work? If not, I'll go to the calipers and do the traditional air purge.
 
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Old Dec 6, 2010 | 08:15 PM
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Ouch! I was up in the hills awhile ago and did the same thing... brakes stopped working, it was dark, and I grabbed the wrong bottle. If I were you I'd run an extra bottle through to make sure its all out of there... Damn stuff killed my compensation valve.
 
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Old Dec 7, 2010 | 04:57 AM
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hope you got it all. the oil/brake fluid combo will swell all the rubber, including the lines, to 3 times it's normal size.an old time rip-off trick was to put brake fluid in a bad trans to make it work until it sold. then it destroyed itself.
 
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Old Dec 7, 2010 | 10:27 AM
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Originally Posted by dustybumpers
hope you got it all. the oil/brake fluid combo will swell all the rubber, including the lines, to 3 times it's normal size.an old time rip-off trick was to put brake fluid in a bad trans to make it work until it sold. then it destroyed itself.
I've decided to replace the master. That puts the project another day behind schedule.
 
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Old Dec 7, 2010 | 05:17 PM
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good idea, better safe than sorry. keep an eye on the rubber seal in the lid, if it swells, you made a wise choice
 
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Old Dec 8, 2010 | 06:10 PM
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I use a vacuum power bleeder,you can get them from a cheap hand pump up to high dollar air power bleeder.You won't waste any fluid and you don't get sprayed and you don't have to go through the "pump up the pedal" routine.I would rather scrub old grease sludge off my hands than 3 drops of DOT 3,but that's just me.It also makes it possible to do it yourself,if you keep check on the fluid level in the master.Ditto on the rubber swell,weird stuff happens to o-rings,gaskets and boots when subjected different fluids.
 
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Old Dec 8, 2010 | 06:30 PM
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I saw a video on utube showing how to easily make a bleeder with any vacuum source....like a shop vac or the like.
 
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Old Dec 8, 2010 | 07:18 PM
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I got a vacum bleeder pump kit from harbor freight for about $20. works great. best part, when you have a leak, it won't work. when you do the pedel/pump, it takes a while for the leak to show up
 
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Old Dec 9, 2010 | 09:19 AM
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No bleeding! Today when I swap out the master, I won't have to bleed any of the calipers. Why? I learned a trick: before I attach the lines, I squirt them full of b.fluid with a syringe, then I just go to the first tee on both front and back lines, and open them at the same time, then having the person inside the cab press the pedal. One or two pumps does it.

After the hydroboost conversion, it is amazing how the truck stops! Since I've owned it I have done the brakes at least 5 times, changing v.boosters, etc., but never felt really confident in the brakes before--until now.

With the disc conversion, and now the hydroboost conversion, it is amazing. It stops on a dime. The only thing that bothers me is I changed to a 92 C3500 one ton disc/disc master. It has a 1 3/8" bore (my old one had a 1 1/4"). The pedal is so high it is uncomfortable.

<a href="http://s659.photobucket.com/albums/uu316/bobbyrogue/?action=view&amp;current=P1010436.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i659.photobucket.com/albums/uu316/bobbyrogue/P1010436.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>

<a href="http://s659.photobucket.com/albums/uu316/bobbyrogue/?action=view&amp;current=P1010448.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i659.photobucket.com/albums/uu316/bobbyrogue/P1010448.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>
 
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Old Dec 9, 2010 | 02:24 PM
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Originally Posted by F-250 restorer
The only thing that bothers me is I changed to a 92 C3500 one ton disc/disc master. It has a 1 3/8" bore (my old one had a 1 1/4"). The pedal is so high it is uncomfortable.



You ought to be able to adjust the booster rod enough to get the pedal right where you want it. It's at the back of the boost unit, so you'll have to remove the booster (again) to do it, but it's pretty easy.
 
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Old Dec 9, 2010 | 04:06 PM
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Originally Posted by Wyowanderer
You ought to be able to adjust the booster rod enough to get the pedal right where you want it. It's at the back of the boost unit, so you'll have to remove the booster (again) to do it, but it's pretty easy.
Are you sure? On a hydroboost unit? That is the first I have heard of it. Does it screw in? This hydro is out of an astro van.
 
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Old Dec 9, 2010 | 04:46 PM
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I hope the pic of the rear rotor/caliper is early in the conversion process, as there's no brake pad visible..........


Sorry, just had to comment.
Looks nice. oughtta really stop that truck rather well, even with a good load.
 
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Old Dec 9, 2010 | 05:20 PM
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yes I was wondering about the brake pads & what about a parking brake ? unless it's on the drive shaft....
 
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Old Dec 9, 2010 | 05:36 PM
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Originally Posted by F-250 restorer
Are you sure? On a hydroboost unit? That is the first I have heard of it. Does it screw in? This hydro is out of an astro van.
I think so, I'll go out in the garage tomorrow evening and check it out, I have one ready for my 46 chevy pickup
 
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Old Dec 9, 2010 | 07:10 PM
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I don't think so, Charlie. I had mine all apart, and, unless I missed something, there is only a swivel. I guess I could buy longer bolts, and insert some shims between the plate and firewall, and back it off another quarter of an inch. That is probably what I'll do.

I'm a bit concerned because the unit seems to be making a pumping/tapping noise when I'm cruising. Heaven forbid I should have to buy a rebuilt from A.zone.
 
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