Major screw up!!
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Lead Driver
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 7,184
Likes: 382
From: Near Los Angeles
I cut, shortened, and welded the rod when I installed the hydro. Some of the units taken from Astro vans have an eye opening that attaches to the b.pedal which is smaller than oem ford. That allows people to drill them to the 5/8" ford spec. However, the one I got was larger, so I cut the eye off my vacuum booster, and welded it to the hydro.
I'm thinking it is the master making the pedal so high. I went from a 1 1/4" bore for disc/drum, to a 1 3/8" bore for disc/disc. It pumps a lot more fluid, so there is minimal play/travel in the pedal. The b.light switch is in the middle of its adjustment threads, so the pedal must be in position, but they are rock hard 6-7-8" from the floor!!
Unless I have to take the unit out for some reason, I am going to leave well enough alone.
I'm thinking it is the master making the pedal so high. I went from a 1 1/4" bore for disc/drum, to a 1 3/8" bore for disc/disc. It pumps a lot more fluid, so there is minimal play/travel in the pedal. The b.light switch is in the middle of its adjustment threads, so the pedal must be in position, but they are rock hard 6-7-8" from the floor!!
Unless I have to take the unit out for some reason, I am going to leave well enough alone.
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Lead Driver
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 7,184
Likes: 382
From: Near Los Angeles
brakes lock.
If you read the thread you know what happened. I've been waiting for the new master, just in case the p/s fluid did its damage. Well, today I got the new one and went to bench bleed it. But I couldn't get the front line to pump fluid. I pumped over 300 times, but nothing!
So I go to take it back and get a refund. Before I left I checked the reservoir, and the rubber lid seal is all bloated. I'm thinking holy crap, I better get a new one in. On the way to the parts house I go to accelerate, and I can't! I was barely able to get in a driveway and out of traffic. The brakes were completely locked up. I had to rev it just to get up the drive, fighting against the brakes!
I thought it over a bit and decided to try to relieve the pressure at the master lines. I did that with a pair of pliers. The front line had nothing! It was completely swollen shut. Then I thought about a tow truck, because I had to bleed the lines, but just for the heck of it I tightened up the lines and tried to drive it. The pedal was high and hard, and it stopped great with only the rears working!!!
Tomorrow I'll vacuum out the entire system and change the master for sure.
So I go to take it back and get a refund. Before I left I checked the reservoir, and the rubber lid seal is all bloated. I'm thinking holy crap, I better get a new one in. On the way to the parts house I go to accelerate, and I can't! I was barely able to get in a driveway and out of traffic. The brakes were completely locked up. I had to rev it just to get up the drive, fighting against the brakes!
I thought it over a bit and decided to try to relieve the pressure at the master lines. I did that with a pair of pliers. The front line had nothing! It was completely swollen shut. Then I thought about a tow truck, because I had to bleed the lines, but just for the heck of it I tightened up the lines and tried to drive it. The pedal was high and hard, and it stopped great with only the rears working!!!
Tomorrow I'll vacuum out the entire system and change the master for sure.
FTE Legend
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 56,542
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From: In my own world
oh man. if it wern't for bad, luck, you'd have no luck. I hope the only swelling was at the master..... otherwise, you'll have to replace every rubber part in your system. guess would be a good time for all new stainless braded lines, huh?
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Lead Driver
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 7,184
Likes: 382
From: Near Los Angeles
Oh, dusty!! Part of this project was putting in all new rubber lines ... 5 of the puppies. Geez louise. Hopefully it will only be the master, not my new proportioning valve. Of course the inexpensive steel lines won't be affected.
Senior User
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 480
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From: Hudson,Michigan
I remember when DOT 3 was first introduced,I worked as a mechanic at a local Harley Davidson dealer.All the caliper o-rings were marked with color coded dots because of the bad effects mixing fluids and rubber parts,and we were warned that if you shook a can of DOT 3, it had to set on a shelf for a minimum of 24hrs before all the air bubbles were totally gone,as not to put air in the system.We had a lot of trouble with air in the front brake system causing the caliper piston not to retract,which heated the fluid and built pressure,putting the front brake on (really not good on a bike).While I never seen any cause an accident,I did see one go up in flames.I would be watching everything that fluid touched,it may take longer to show up,and any sign of caliper retraction problems and I would be changing o-rings.Good luck, hope there's no more problems.
FTE Legend
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 56,542
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From: In my own world
they will have to be thuroughly cleaned, as any trace of oil, no matter how small will start the process over again. I have my fingers crossed for you man.
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Lead Driver
Joined: Mar 2008
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From: Near Los Angeles
I was doing about 35 and tried to accellerate, and could not. My brakes were so locked I could hardly get into a driveway and out of traffic. I had to really rev it to move. Finally, after a lot of head scratching, and dreading having to pay a tow truck, I found a pair of pliers and opened the lines at the master. The line to the front brakes was dry!! The rears flowed well. With the pressure relieved, and w/o bleeding, I drove home w/ only rear brakes, the pedal high and hard!
I tried two more of the same masters, and could not get pressure in the front line!! Finally I went to A.zone 2535, 4xdisc, 4x4, and had to inject fluid into the front line fitting with a syringe to get pressure. Problem solved.
Regarding the other post, where he asked about the ebrake: I have a thread going, 'disc conversion with ebrake' where I detail the process. I used the 76-78 caddy calipers w/ebrake. If you are considering the install, I would say pay the $300 to TSM for the custom ebrake calipers that fit. I am still playing with my cables to get them to work properly. I was just so tired of working on it, four days to do the disc conversion, and then four to do the hydroboost/p/s conversion, that I needed a break.
I tried two more of the same masters, and could not get pressure in the front line!! Finally I went to A.zone 2535, 4xdisc, 4x4, and had to inject fluid into the front line fitting with a syringe to get pressure. Problem solved.
Regarding the other post, where he asked about the ebrake: I have a thread going, 'disc conversion with ebrake' where I detail the process. I used the 76-78 caddy calipers w/ebrake. If you are considering the install, I would say pay the $300 to TSM for the custom ebrake calipers that fit. I am still playing with my cables to get them to work properly. I was just so tired of working on it, four days to do the disc conversion, and then four to do the hydroboost/p/s conversion, that I needed a break.
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