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Another No start... All things checked

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Old Dec 6, 2010 | 06:10 PM
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Another No start... All things checked

Hey guys. Im having a problem with my 6.0 its in a 2004 ford 250. The other day i was just taing off from my cuzins house and about a block or two down the road my truck just lost power and the rpms dropped to about 250 rpm. Its stayed running at this rpm for about ten seconds then died. i restart it and ran for a few seconds then died again. Now when i turn it over it dont even sound like the injectors are firing off at all

So far ive checked:
Fuel pressure at test port: 48 psi.
Hp oil pressure was at 1.2 which is over the .8 minimum ive read about.. correct?
Low pressure dose register on dash as soon as i crank it over
49 volts at FICM
No chafed wires that i can see
Ballon tested injectors- no air escaped
All fuses good
Pretty much the whole no start checklist.....

Im not getting any codes, ive replace the crank and cam sensors too and that changed nothing. I know my battery voltage is high enoungh because i have two new batteries, and im using a jump box to keep the batteries at full voltage.. thanks guys
 
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Old Dec 6, 2010 | 06:34 PM
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What is your FICM voltage cranking? Your fuel pressure is way low IMHO. 45 is the minimum at WOT, so you have a fuel pressure and/or fuel pump issue to start with. I'm not a big fan of the balloon test. You can pull the secondary fuel filter cap (and fuel pump fuse) crank the truck over and see if it bubbles. If so then you have a leaking injector that the balloon may not show. ICP doesn't sound quite right to me. I didn't think it was supposed to be that high cranking, but I'm gonna let someone else chime in on that. Do you have an 03 (ICP under turbo) or 04 motor or do you know the production date of the truck?
 
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Old Dec 6, 2010 | 07:09 PM
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I have 49 volts while cranking. And i also performed the bubble test on the secondary fuel filter filter before i did the ballon test, i just thought the ballon test was more precise so i mentioned that one instead . And its an 04 with the icp on the right bank of the engine
 
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Old Dec 6, 2010 | 07:17 PM
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Your ICP is OK, maybe a little high, but OK. Did you check for codes first? Are you getting any smoke at all while cranking? If not then it's not getting fuel or the injectors aren't "firing". What are you scanning for codes with?
 
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Old Dec 6, 2010 | 08:06 PM
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Yea i checked for codes when it didnt start back up and none came up, im using a cheap scanner i got at sears, its nothing special. Can it possibly be that the reader aint good enough to pick up all the codes?

No smoke at all, is there a way i could check fire to the injector? possibly arc over a "hot" wire from an injector plug to ground to check for a signal spark?
 
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Old Dec 6, 2010 | 08:24 PM
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Originally Posted by mudslingur
Yea i checked for codes when it didnt start back up and none came up, im using a cheap scanner i got at sears, its nothing special. Can it possibly be that the reader aint good enough to pick up all the codes?

No smoke at all, is there a way i could check fire to the injector? possibly arc over a "hot" wire from an injector plug to ground to check for a signal spark?
It takes high pressure oil and two electrical signals to fire an injector so you can't "trick" it into firing.

It's very possible that the scanner you are using won't pick up the codes. My SCT won't pick 10% of what my OLD predator will pickup IF the SCt picks up any at all.
 
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Old Dec 6, 2010 | 08:54 PM
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Ill prolly try another scanner then.

Yea i kno buddy, but what i mean is to see if the power is making it to the injector..... Like u know how on a gasser you arc over a plug wire to check for fire? Well i mean doing something like that, like arcing over the wire that opens the spool valve to a ground. Shouldnt that be able to narrow it down a little more
 
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Old Dec 6, 2010 | 08:59 PM
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Originally Posted by mudslingur
Ill prolly try another scanner then.

Yea i kno buddy, but what i mean is to see if the power is making it to the injector..... Like u know how on a gasser you arc over a plug wire to check for fire? Well i mean doing something like that, like arcing over the wire that opens the spool valve to a ground. Shouldnt that be able to narrow it down a little more
Doesn't quite work like that. The electrical pulse to the injector is so very short you would never notice it. something in milliseconds. Not to mention possibly damaging your FICM doing that. If you want a GOOD scanner fairly cheap with LOTS of information go to Vatozone and get a Scan Gauge II. Gauges, codes, etc.
 
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Old Dec 6, 2010 | 09:04 PM
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Have you checked your crank sensor connection? Also camshaft? Check for loose connection, short, or oil soaked.
 
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Old Dec 6, 2010 | 09:06 PM
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Originally Posted by bismic
Have you checked your crank sensor connection? Also camshaft? Check for loose connection, short, or oil soaked.
He's already replaced both.
 
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Old Dec 6, 2010 | 09:10 PM
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Originally Posted by npccpartsman
He's already replaced both.
Doh ............... I missed that (in post #1 even ...)


Sure sounds like an electrical / wiring harness type issue.

Did you try unplugging the fuel pump heater connector? (gearloose really focused on this one)
Long shot I guess, but it seems like you are facing a challenge here!
 
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Old Dec 6, 2010 | 09:32 PM
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Do you hear the injectors pre-cycling nice and loud when you first cycle the ignition from the OFF to the RUN position? The next on the list is to monitor FICM_SYNC and SYNC switching from NO to YES when cranking the engine over. Try removing the battery cover from the driver side battery to access the three PCM connectors. Disconnect the middle connector from the PCM. Reconnect it, and see if the truck starts. When you remove the secondary fuel filter cap, does fuel fill up RAPIDLY and OVERFLOW when the ignition is cycled to the RUN position, or does it just rise slowly and then bleed back down? If it does the latter of the two, your fuel pump is weak and likely needs replaced.
 
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Old Dec 6, 2010 | 09:33 PM
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Originally Posted by bismic
Doh ............... I missed that (in post #1 even ...)


Sure sounds like an electrical / wiring harness type issue.

Did you try unplugging the fuel pump heater connector? (gearloose really focused on this one)
Long shot I guess, but it seems like you are facing a challenge here!
Tell me about it, ive been chasing my **** for about a week now.

I hate to say it, but as soon as i get it running im getting a cummins
 
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Old Dec 6, 2010 | 09:38 PM
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Originally Posted by m-chan68
Do you hear the injectors pre-cycling nice and loud when you first cycle the ignition from the OFF to the RUN position? The next on the list is to monitor FICM_SYNC and SYNC switching from NO to YES when cranking the engine over. Try removing the battery cover from the driver side battery to access the three PCM connectors. Disconnect the middle connector from the PCM. Reconnect it, and see if the truck starts. When you remove the secondary fuel filter cap, does fuel fill up RAPIDLY and OVERFLOW when the ignition is cycled to the RUN position, or does it just rise slowly and then bleed back down? If it does the latter of the two, your fuel pump is weak and likely needs replaced.
Yea i hear them buzz, Ill try the pcm wire harness tomorrow.

Thanks
 
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Old Dec 9, 2010 | 07:19 PM
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Well i did the bb mod just to bring up my fuel pressures a little bit and im now up to 52 psi.

And when im cranking it over im getting a good cloud of white smoke and every other rotation you can hear one of the cylinders fire off but thats about it.

What could it be now that i know the computer is indeed "firing" off the injectors
 
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