Leaf spring bolt????
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Leaf spring bolt????
I am replacing my shackles and mounts on the rear of my F-150.
How in the heck do I get the d*** bolt out of the back end of the leaf spring. That thing is super stuck and I am thinking it might be easier to replace the whole leaf spring.
Maybe I should grind it out?
Help me please???
How in the heck do I get the d*** bolt out of the back end of the leaf spring. That thing is super stuck and I am thinking it might be easier to replace the whole leaf spring.
Maybe I should grind it out?Help me please???
Post Fiend
Joined: Jan 2005
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The problem is that there is a steel bush through the center of the rubber bushing and the bolt gets siezed to it. Cut the spring hanger at the bolt head, then set the rubber bushing on fire with a propane torch, let it burn for around 10min, then push the bolt out along with the molten rubber. Once you have the bolt out you can either slit the steel bush with a disc cutter or heat it red and hammer the bolt out of the bush.
You will, of course, need a new spring eye bushing.
You will, of course, need a new spring eye bushing.
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I am imagining a propane torch and using it to melt out the rubber in the leaf spring. Then pounding out the rest of the bolt and whatever is leftover.
Is my imagination on track with what you are saying?
I could also invision a gas can and then the whole truck a blaze. That would teach that rusty bolt a lesson.
Is my imagination on track with what you are saying?
I could also invision a gas can and then the whole truck a blaze. That would teach that rusty bolt a lesson.
Post Fiend
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 8,402
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Yes, cut the old hanger off at the bolt head so that when the rubber is molten the bolt will just push out (having removed the nut) with the molten rubber. You need to cut the hanger as with it still in place the bolt will still not come out even with the rubber bushing molten as the steel bush will not come through the hole in the hanger.
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I cut the head off of the bolt early this morning and I haven't put the new bracket or shackle in yet. There is nothing to stop the bolt from coming out now. I will pick up a torch on my next trip out.
Senior User
Joined: Dec 2007
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From: Noblesville,IN
I just got my hanger finished a coupla hrs ago. I used the grinder to to cut the nut/bolt threads off. I had cut the shackle off with a Sawzall even with the edge of the spring eye. What was left of the shackle came off with the nut/threads. Like yours, my bolt as frozen. I heated the bolt with a propane torch and used a wrench on the bolt head to get the bolt to rock back and forth. I used a pointed air chisel bit with a BFH and pounded the bolt through until it stopped at the frame. Took the Sawzall and cut the bolt off flush with the bushing. Repeated that once more and the bolt was out.
I put the new bolt in opposite direction. Don't tell anybody. BTW-Autozone has the spring eye bushing for $16.99 special order.
I put the new bolt in opposite direction. Don't tell anybody. BTW-Autozone has the spring eye bushing for $16.99 special order.
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My shackle came with a new bushing.... or what apears to be a new bushing. I just have to get the old one out but as it got later in the day I had to spend some time being lazy and sitting on the couch. I will get her finished up in the morning, if it is not to cold out.
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Fleet Owner
Joined: May 2009
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From: Gilbert, PA
Is the bolt froze in the spring eye or the shackle eye? If the bolt is froze in the shackle eye, just cut the shackle and remove the old hanger w the part of the old shackle. then lift the spring high enough or low enough the get the spring eye bolt out.
if the spring eye bolt is froze, do your self a favor and remove the whole spring from the truck(if the front eye bolt is not froze). And deal with the spring on the ground
Using a torch in such close proximity of the fuel tank is not such a good idea, especially when those rubber bushings burst into flames
if the spring eye bolt is froze, do your self a favor and remove the whole spring from the truck(if the front eye bolt is not froze). And deal with the spring on the ground
Using a torch in such close proximity of the fuel tank is not such a good idea, especially when those rubber bushings burst into flames
Elder User
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 690
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From: Madison Ohio
One thing I would like to add that no one has touched on here.
put some anti-seize on the new bolts... DO NOT put on the threads as you don't want to chance the nut and bolt coming loose. However I put a light coat on the body of the new bolt ( the area that will be in the metal sleeves of the bushings ) This way should you ever have to replace or change your leaf springs or shackles the bolt will slide right on out with out much fuss.
I also use nylon lock nuts on spring bolts as it kind of seals out the water and what not and don't seam to rust up. Just take a wire wheel in a drill and clean the threads showing and zip off with a impact. ( yes you can get Grade 8 nylon lock nuts just have to know ware to shop )
If the top of the tank or the sending unit is rotted .. the sparks off the grinder, or the popping burning little fire ***** from burning the bushings can spell major fire troubles. Of course burning the rivets out with a torch ( as I normally do ) can be problems too. Just be careful out there!
put some anti-seize on the new bolts... DO NOT put on the threads as you don't want to chance the nut and bolt coming loose. However I put a light coat on the body of the new bolt ( the area that will be in the metal sleeves of the bushings ) This way should you ever have to replace or change your leaf springs or shackles the bolt will slide right on out with out much fuss.
I also use nylon lock nuts on spring bolts as it kind of seals out the water and what not and don't seam to rust up. Just take a wire wheel in a drill and clean the threads showing and zip off with a impact. ( yes you can get Grade 8 nylon lock nuts just have to know ware to shop )
If the top of the tank or the sending unit is rotted .. the sparks off the grinder, or the popping burning little fire ***** from burning the bushings can spell major fire troubles. Of course burning the rivets out with a torch ( as I normally do ) can be problems too. Just be careful out there!
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I finally got it all out!
The rubber melted away with the torch. It took a while and a lot of turning the bolt back and forth to get it to break free but it came out pretty easy.
The metal part of the bushing was a pain in the butt.
I finally made a run to the hardware store and bought some metal blades of my jigsaw. I cut it straight across the top and pounded it out. It was a great feeling when the bushing broke free and shot across the driveway.
All I have to do is put the new parts in and I will be done. I am going to bet that something will not fit right and this will continue to be a pain for a couple more days.
All together, I think I have about four hours invested into this project. When I do the other side I will go with all new parts and go ahead and replace the leaf springs and front and rear brackets.
I will post some pictures of what is left after I got annoyed and put the grinder to work.
It is nothing more than shrapnel now.
The rubber melted away with the torch. It took a while and a lot of turning the bolt back and forth to get it to break free but it came out pretty easy.
The metal part of the bushing was a pain in the butt.
I finally made a run to the hardware store and bought some metal blades of my jigsaw. I cut it straight across the top and pounded it out. It was a great feeling when the bushing broke free and shot across the driveway.All I have to do is put the new parts in and I will be done. I am going to bet that something will not fit right and this will continue to be a pain for a couple more days.
All together, I think I have about four hours invested into this project. When I do the other side I will go with all new parts and go ahead and replace the leaf springs and front and rear brackets.
I will post some pictures of what is left after I got annoyed and put the grinder to work.
It is nothing more than shrapnel now.
Elder User
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 721
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From: Monmouth County, NJ
I did the same. It hits the corner of the hanger but then it wears a little path for itself and all is well. I have no sway bars so for a while when I made a hard left turn the bolt would bite the hanger and jerk the truck around.
My gas tank leaks, so I kept an arsenal of sand and fire extinguishers handy and ground the hanger off. I then removed the entire spring and burned the bushing out where I didn't have to worry about fire so much.
I checked a bunch of trucks at the boneyard, and like mine they all had perfect right side hangers and rotted left side ones. That seems counterintuitive to me, does anyone know why this is? Shouldn't the right side one go first?
My gas tank leaks, so I kept an arsenal of sand and fire extinguishers handy and ground the hanger off. I then removed the entire spring and burned the bushing out where I didn't have to worry about fire so much.
I checked a bunch of trucks at the boneyard, and like mine they all had perfect right side hangers and rotted left side ones. That seems counterintuitive to me, does anyone know why this is? Shouldn't the right side one go first?
Lead Driver
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 5,670
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From: Sand Lake, MI
I checked a bunch of trucks at the boneyard, and like mine they all had perfect right side hangers and rotted left side ones. That seems counterintuitive to me, does anyone know why this is? Shouldn't the right side one go first?
Here they just kinda dump the salt down the center line of the road rather then spread it across each lane, so the left side tends to get the worst of it.
Here they just kinda dump the salt down the center line of the road rather then spread it across each lane, so the left side tends to get the worst of it.
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