Coolant filter / flush or not
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From: Geary OK
Coolant filter / flush or not
I got my coolant filter kit last week and I'm ready to install it. My job is 24/7, I basicly live on location. I will not be able to do the drain and flush procedure because I can't leave. Can I install the filter set up and change out filters as needed or should I wait for some time off ( after new year) and flush it.
Mud
Mud
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Joined: Jul 2005
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From: Middle Tn.
Personally, 1 more month shouldn't make that much diff. as I would flush it and now you have a clean slate meaning filter and up to date coolant.
1. Drain coolant
2. Add 2 cans of VC-9 and top off with distilled water.
3. Drive 20 to 30 miles, preferably at highway speeds.
4. Drain radiator at petcock first, then pull lower hose. Then remove block plug on driver side. Not necesary to do passenger side.
5. Remove t-stat. To do this, remove air cleaner. Then 2 nuts on t-stat housing. Pry press. sensor bracket off of studs. Tight fit but it will move. Remove 2 more nuts and pull t-stat and housing from studs.
6. Remove t-stat and put housing back on. Re-assemble everything and fill with distilled water.
7. Run at 1200 rpm's for 3 to 5 minutes and drain as described in step 4.
8. Repeat 4 to 5 times or until water coming at is as clear as water going in.
9. Install t-stat using new O ring. I used vaseline to hold the O ring in place.
10. After everything is re-assembled fill with a 50/50 mix of Ford premium gold or Zerex GO-5.
11. Start engine and check for leaks. This is a lot easier and quicker than it sounds. If you don't remove t-stat then you have to run truck between each flush till t-stat fully opens and then let cool down to work on it.
Highly recommend installing coolant filter kit while cooling system is empty. <?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com
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></o>
1. Drain coolant
2. Add 2 cans of VC-9 and top off with distilled water.
3. Drive 20 to 30 miles, preferably at highway speeds.
4. Drain radiator at petcock first, then pull lower hose. Then remove block plug on driver side. Not necesary to do passenger side.
5. Remove t-stat. To do this, remove air cleaner. Then 2 nuts on t-stat housing. Pry press. sensor bracket off of studs. Tight fit but it will move. Remove 2 more nuts and pull t-stat and housing from studs.
6. Remove t-stat and put housing back on. Re-assemble everything and fill with distilled water.
7. Run at 1200 rpm's for 3 to 5 minutes and drain as described in step 4.
8. Repeat 4 to 5 times or until water coming at is as clear as water going in.
9. Install t-stat using new O ring. I used vaseline to hold the O ring in place.
10. After everything is re-assembled fill with a 50/50 mix of Ford premium gold or Zerex GO-5.
11. Start engine and check for leaks. This is a lot easier and quicker than it sounds. If you don't remove t-stat then you have to run truck between each flush till t-stat fully opens and then let cool down to work on it.
Highly recommend installing coolant filter kit while cooling system is empty. <?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com
fficeffice" /><o></o>
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Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 15,368
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From: Stuttgart, Ar
Because tap water can contain unknown chemicals and MINERALS that will cause buildup on your internal cooling system parts over time. Distilled water is PURE WATER--no minerals or chemicals.
Personally I see no reason you can't do the chemical flush WITH distilled water then remove all the chemical with tap water and simple green as recommended by Ford however I would still do the FINAL two or three flushes with distilled water.
Removing the thermostat greatly decreases the time it takes to remove the chemicals from the system, however I would leave the thermostat in while the chemical is there to obtain proper operating temperature. Remember......it's IMPORTANT to operate the truck at raised RPM's for at least an hour--a nice scenic drive if you will--so that the chemical can work. Nothing drastic, just a nice 55mph drive. Remember that you have no freezing or overheat protection during this time.
Personally I see no reason you can't do the chemical flush WITH distilled water then remove all the chemical with tap water and simple green as recommended by Ford however I would still do the FINAL two or three flushes with distilled water.
Removing the thermostat greatly decreases the time it takes to remove the chemicals from the system, however I would leave the thermostat in while the chemical is there to obtain proper operating temperature. Remember......it's IMPORTANT to operate the truck at raised RPM's for at least an hour--a nice scenic drive if you will--so that the chemical can work. Nothing drastic, just a nice 55mph drive. Remember that you have no freezing or overheat protection during this time.
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