Ranger Hard Starting
Junior User
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 78
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From: texas
The fuel filter is on the drivers side just inside the frame rail about were the drivers seat is. It is stored neatly in a spring loaded hanger. the black line to the engine is the one I took off first. Just take your fingers squeeze the white or light colored clips that hold the coupler to the filter squeeze it together & pull the line off. Fuel will drip for a couple seconds. (No Smoking !) Then I grab the filter by the tube I just took the line from, just pull the filter from the bracket. It will come off & repeat the same way for removing the other lines off. The side that has 2 lines on has a 3/8 supply line & a 5/16 return line to the tank. Some fuel comes out but not that much. If you blow through the filter blow on the supply side (3/8 line) & plug the 5/16 return line. If you don't block it off the gas will blow right back in your face!It should be real easy to blow through after all the fuel is out. If there is a lot of restriction it needed replaced. I had a Oldsmobile when I was a kid, and the engine would starve for fuel. I changed the filter 7 I couldn't even blow through it. Then put the two lines on the new filter slide it into the frame holder & put the engine line on. I always check for leaks by sykling the pump with the key a couple times checking for leaks.
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New User
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 18
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ranger hard starting
Well Happy New Year Everyone !
Final Report!
I'm happy my truck is starting like a champ.
I still cring when I start it hot but it just goes bang & starts on the 4th revolution , with power.
The plugs helped & the fuel filter really made the difference.
When I was working & managed a fleet of Ford trucks we found these trucks usually needed a new O2 Sensers around 65,000 miles.
Ford wanted over 100 for one but we bought the same identical Bosch units for 49 bucks at Auto Zone.
Happy Trucking
Final Report!
I'm happy my truck is starting like a champ.
I still cring when I start it hot but it just goes bang & starts on the 4th revolution , with power.
The plugs helped & the fuel filter really made the difference.
When I was working & managed a fleet of Ford trucks we found these trucks usually needed a new O2 Sensers around 65,000 miles.
Ford wanted over 100 for one but we bought the same identical Bosch units for 49 bucks at Auto Zone.
Happy Trucking
Junior User
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 78
Likes: 0
From: texas
..............Just a short statement too tell you and paw paw that I changed my fuel filter on my '08 Ranger , this afternoon , in about 10 minutes . I squeezed the little push points , pushed forward , then pulled back and all three came off with no problemo ! There was mimimal fuel dripping , just enough too mandate a shower . Probably the easiest maintenance I'll ever perform on this truck . Oh , I did blow through the old filter and it definitely , needed changing . Thanks , friends , rb
Moderator
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 13,851
Likes: 111
From: SW Va
Let us know how it goes after the fuel filter change. If you have more than 30K miles on the filter in there now, its scheduled maintenance time for a replacement anyway.
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New User
Joined: Feb 2019
Posts: 11
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Thanks for the reply. I changed the filter. It did need it, but that didnt seem to be the issue. still getting a hard start when warm. after I park it for a while going to the store or some such. I ordered new spark plugs, I will try that once they arrive. any other ideas?
New User
Joined: Feb 2019
Posts: 11
Likes: 0
Thanks for the reply. I changed the filter. It did need it, but that didnt seem to be the issue. still getting a hard start when warm. after I park it for a while going to the store or some such. I ordered new spark plugs, I will try that once they arrive. any other ideas?
Moderator
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 13,851
Likes: 111
From: SW Va
Use your fuel pressure gauge at the fuel rail Schrader valve test port to check fuel pressure to see if its bleeding off after shut down. If so, try cycling the ignition switch from Off to Run say 3-4 times (but don't go all the way to start to crank the engine), this to build fuel pressure, Then go to Start & see if it'll run.
Seeing as how it falls into a 20-30 min drive cycle time frame, if no joy with the above, when its in one of its no start fits, hop out & loosen the gas cap to equalize tank pressure, retighten the cap & try starting again. If it'll immediately start & run, maybe the gas cap isn't properly venting the tank & after a 20-30 min drive the fuel pump will remove enough fuel to pull a vacuum on the tank that the fuel pump can't over come.
Also use your trouble code scanner, or better yet the inexpensive ELM scan tool & running FORScan diagnostic software that's tweaked for Fords on your viewing device choice, as it can query all of the vehicle computer/controllers for trouble code clues & post All code Numbers, as they can help focus a trouble shoot.
More thoughts for consideration, let us know what you find.
New User
Joined: Feb 2019
Posts: 11
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Thank you for the reply. I think I may have found an issue. I went to change the plugs today, First on closest to front looked fine from top, but plen I pulled the plug, looks like oil coated the whole threads, changed that and moved to the next one, OIL FILLED THE WHOLE SPARK PLUG WHOLE, couldnt even see the plug. so yea... I have a bigger issue now. any ideas on what to do about that?
Moderator
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 13,851
Likes: 111
From: SW Va
Good find & a good example of why sometimes a picture is worth a thousand words!!! SO, lets think about what we might be seeing in the photos. Several things come to mind, loose cam cover fasteners, dry rotted spark plug well & or cam cover gasket/seals, excessive piston ring blow-by & or gummed up sticking closed/faulty PCV valve, or some combination there-of, that's causing crankcase over pressure, that's forcing oil past the gasket/seals.
The spark plug insulator looks clean, so worn, or stuck piston rings, causing excessive blow-by, at this point don't seem worthy of a spot high up on the suspect list.
So that kinda leaves the PCV valve, loose cam cover fasteners, or faulty gasket/seals on the suspect list.
Some thoughts for consideration, let us know what you find.
The spark plug insulator looks clean, so worn, or stuck piston rings, causing excessive blow-by, at this point don't seem worthy of a spot high up on the suspect list.
So that kinda leaves the PCV valve, loose cam cover fasteners, or faulty gasket/seals on the suspect list.
Some thoughts for consideration, let us know what you find.
New User
Joined: Feb 2019
Posts: 11
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Thanks for the reply. I'm going to change out the gasket and PCV valve first.
https://www.fordpartsgiant.com/parts...d-cover,,6K260
Is this the right part? I'll also check the bolts for tightness
https://www.fordpartsgiant.com/parts...d-cover,,6K260
Is this the right part? I'll also check the bolts for tightness