Ranger Hard Starting
 

2008 2.3L Ranger 4X2 Auto. has slowly become hard starting. Just cranks & cranks then starts. I bought this truck 8 months ago, with 46000 miles on it. It runs great after starting . and now has 50000 miles on it.This truck is very clean & has not been abused. :-X15. The car fax I received when purchasing stated several dealer services & I expect the fuel filter was replaced especally since I can wind the first 3 gears to 5800 between shifts when I want to. Runs good.

Open for suggestions.,

Spark plugs ,new air filter and cleaning MAF sensor (in air intake tube leading to throttle body).Plug wires could also need replacement but try other items first to see if an improvement.

Do you have a CEL lit???? If so, run this puppy by your favorite autoparts store for a no cost computer trouble code scan & post All of the code Numbers, as they can offer up good trouble shooting clues.

I like 03MazB23's ideas.

I set my then new 99 Rangers spark gap to the Min side (.052") of spec & by 36K, miles they were .008 Over Max spec!!!! So in 36K miles the spark gap had opened up a total of .012" on the OEM single platinum plugs!!!!

SO, if it still has the OEM plugs in it & you reuse them, be sure to put them back in the same hole they were removed from.
If you decide to replace them, use at least double platinum, or better yet the new specified ones with a fine wire iridium enhanced center electrode & platinum pad sidewire design, as their spark gap will stay in spec longer & they can be used in any cylinder.

If you use these plugs & check/set their spark gap, use a Wire Gauge & be gentle pulling it through the spark gap, so as not to damage the electrodes.
Sneak up on the spark gap, if it's too tight, open it up rather than forcing the gap gauge through it & damaging the electrodes.
None of my new plugs have been factory set anywhere near the right spark gap right out of the box!!!!

On the wires, check their end to end resistance with a good quality multimeter, while wiggeling both end connectors.
Resistance should be steady & about 1K ohm/inch of length, 30K ohms max, no matter the length.

If you come to suspect the MAF sensor is dirty, pull it, let it cool, & spray clean it with a non residual cleaner like CRC MAF Spray cleaner. Don't touch the sensor with the spray wand & keep it squeeky clean upon reintallation, THEN, look up stream to the air box & filter to find out Why it got dirty & fix that!!!!

If all of the above check ok, do 2-4 OFF to KOEO cycles of the ignition switch, but Don't crank the engine. Listen to determine if you can hear the fuel pump cycle on for a couple of seconds to pressureize/prime the system & turn off, THEN crank the engine. If it'll immediately start & run, suspect a fuel pressure or pump problem, so do a fuel pressure check. It should be 64 +/- 8 psi.

You say you suspect the fuel filter has been changed, maybe it hasn't!!!! They're due for a change at 36K miles. Air filter is too!!!!

If all that checks out ok, do a compression check.

More thoughts for consideration, let us know how it goes.

Ranger Hard Starting
 

I have a scanner & it indicates no codes stored.
The charging system is up to standards.
The battery is good, I cant believe it is plugs, being a retired ford fleet manager .
I'm wondering if the TPS switch might be bad or the cam senser
Runs too good for a fuel filter to be plugged


it ran great for months then after crawling in traffic & 5 mph for an hour it became hard starting.

Replacing plugs (or at least pull em and check gaps) checking spark plug cable resistance, air filter check and/or replacement ,cleaning MAF sensor are cheap fixes and not all that time consuming. The only other part that comes to mind other than the above is the ignition coil. If it were a cam sensor etc. it would have tripped a code.

hard starting
 

spark plugs & wires are defiantly worth checking but there is no misfire no rough idle.
The coil is good it supplies voltage when on a pull up hill with no problem.
The air cleaner is a new ford filter
now timing sense OK i didn't think about if it was bad it would set a code.
I think tomorrow i will check the fuel filter.
I don't have a fuel pressure gauge adapter,,maybe Auto Zone has one??

Thanks.

Some of the parts places loan out tools. On the fuel filter removal/replacement be careful with those plastic horseshoe shaped clips that retain fuel line on both ends of filter. They can break easily. There are tools for removal but what works best for me is a small flat blade screwdriver. Push the line toward filter and press on the flat (top of clip) and then pull line off. Of course relieve fuel pressure by removing fuel pump relay and running truck till fuel is used up prior to removal or trip fuel pump shutoff by passenger kick panel. You still get alot of dripping when you remove old one so have a rag handy. If you have a Walmart nearby they carry the Autolite plugs for the truck. Also stock Motorcraft oil filters. I think in your case the wide plug gap on the old plugs is causing a weak spark and hence the starting issue.

BTW, welcome to FTE!!!!

Ranger Hard Starting
 

Well I'm back to report, on my hard starting when hot problem.I pulled the air idle solenoid to see if on starting it opens up,, yep it works great. I bought a fuel check gauge & went to napa & bought 4 Autolite plugs, XP 140, plugs to replace the Japanese plugs I found that were previously installed. I noticed before it had a rough idle on Cold start up. changing the plugs made it start easier & quicker to start , I think -- but I wont drive it tell tomorrow for the test. I checked the fuel pressure & it went imediatly to 54 & wnen I turned the ignition iff it went to zero. I started the engine & the pump psi went to 55 steady.I pushed the button to release the pressure while running & the psi went to 22 at an idle & ran ok.I have to make a 100 mile desert trip tomorrow & when I get back Wednesday I will report back.

pump should not drop to zero immediately, might be injector stuck open or return line issue.

and the pressure seems a little low, suggest new fuel pump.

hard starting
 

Update,, I called the dealer the tuneup guy said the fuel pump was right on. (2008 bypass fuel filter) I pulled a plug and it was a new one but it was a Japanese generic plug. So I replaces all 4 with new Autolite XP104. IRIDIUM must be something special.I drove it & it really was smooth & started on the 4-5 beat on the starter hot & cold every time. I was at the Home Depot today walking back to my truck & I heard a truck start hard, cranked & cranked then started. I looked It same truck as mine.
So next I think I will check the throttle body at the throttle valve. Might need cleaned.

Ranger Hard Starting
 

G-K50

I forgot to ask you if your info is for the 2008 2.3 engine?

The Ford tech said its right on, maybe he didn't hear the
"drops to zero after key is off."

As g_k50 said, the fuel pressure shouldn't drop to zero right after the pump turns off.

So as he said, put a stuck open/leaky fuel injector/s, or a faulty pump regulator, on your suspect list.

My info is from personal readings from a 1990 Bronco 5.0L, 1999 3.0L ranger, 2001 4.0L ranger. the 1990 bronco leaked down right after shut down and I replaced the regulator and the fuel pump. The problem appeared to be a failed valve inside the fuel pump body on the return line.

ranger hard starting
 

Very good!

But with respect I have a 2008 Ranger & the fuel system is different.
Different animal all changed now.
The pump & regulator are in the tank.
The filter has a bypass line that returns unneeded fuel back to the tank.
Pressured fuel goes in & is returned right back to the tank if not needed.Maybe to give the pump a longer life?
Just like the old carburetor cars in the 60s
The fuel rail doesn't have a regulator. it has a fuel shock to smooth out the pump pulsation to the injectors.
The PSI is the same through out the whole system, 55 PSI from the pump to the rail.
If a injector was leaking it would have showed up when I changed plugs, it wouldn't get 21 mpg.
Also when the engine is off the fuel goes back to the tank to release the pressure in the line.
When I was doing a PSI test with my gauge it went up to 55 at an idle. I opened the bleed line & dropped the pressure to 22 & it idled just fine. Just to find out what would happen.