Runs great with no Engine Control Module (computer)????
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New User
Joined: Nov 2010
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From: San Diego, Ca.
Runs great with no Engine Control Module (computer)????
My truck would start normally and after 30 seconds die continuously. All I read was that this was related to the computer. I tried a newly rebuilt computer from Rockauto and it did the same thing, dying after about 30 seconds. I unplugged the computer tried starting it and it ran just fine. Is this wierd or normal. Figure this one out?????????? Thank you for a great site and knowledgable participants on older Ford Pickups.
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New User
Joined: Nov 2010
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From: San Diego, Ca.
It idles. I tried it today and the same problem dying after 30 seconds. It does the same thing, runs the same without the ecm connected. It is a 300, 1984, f150, carb, c-6 trans. This is really really strange. I think it has ghosts or aliens in the engine.
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Joined: Jan 2001
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From: Virginia
You have the computerized six. You also have the TFI ignition module, the same that the later fuel injected engines have. This module is made to fire the plugs even with the computer disconnected. It won't have any timing advance, it will be locked because this is the part the computer does, but it will run. I believe the TFI module would be the first thing to replace if you find you don't have any spark to the engine when it quits on you.
The electronic carb works the same way. It will supply fuel to the engine without the computer, but it will not have the computer to send it commands to tweak the mixture for the best fuel mileage.
And there are various other emissions devices that will not work without the computer, so your emissions will be high, but the engine will still run.
The electronic carb works the same way. It will supply fuel to the engine without the computer, but it will not have the computer to send it commands to tweak the mixture for the best fuel mileage.
And there are various other emissions devices that will not work without the computer, so your emissions will be high, but the engine will still run.
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Joined: Nov 2007
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From: Denver Metro Area, CO
As soon as it dies, check to see if you have spark.
What do you do to get it re-started again? How long do you have to wait?
BTW I'd appreciate it if you'd fill out the rest of your profile so we can see where you're from...
User CP -> LH column of stuff you can edit.
What do you do to get it re-started again? How long do you have to wait?
BTW I'd appreciate it if you'd fill out the rest of your profile so we can see where you're from...
User CP -> LH column of stuff you can edit.
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From: Casper, Wyoming
Before you replace anything, have someone pull the codes. These ignition/carb systems are notorious for giving trouble when just a little is wrong with them. You'll find the data connector at the RH fenderwell, just behind the battery, attached to the MAP sensor wiring. It's as easy as plugging in a code reader, folloing the directions, and reading the codes.
Before you change the ignition module (attached to the side of the distributer) HAVE IT TESTED. The FoMoCo unit rarely goes bad; ignition problems with the TFI system are usually caused by plug/coil wire problems, bad dizzy caps & rotors, etc. I'd also check the TFI coil with an ohmmeter to see if it's up to snuff.
Before you change the ignition module (attached to the side of the distributer) HAVE IT TESTED. The FoMoCo unit rarely goes bad; ignition problems with the TFI system are usually caused by plug/coil wire problems, bad dizzy caps & rotors, etc. I'd also check the TFI coil with an ohmmeter to see if it's up to snuff.
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New User
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From: San Diego, Ca.
Many thanks to all. I have completed the profile section. Franklin 2 thanks for the good information, all right on. I will check for spark upon no/start, check wires and cap for cracks. I checked the contuinity on the coil and checks out. When it does start about the 5th or 6th try, if I rev it way up for a couple of minutes to warm up there is no problem restarting. At speed it slowly looses power and starts to ping a lot. I assume timing off/computer self adjusting for. I will hook everything up and use an ohm meter to check the codes per Haynes manual, and "Ford Six Performance" website. I usually take care of all the mechanical or related but 3 problems unrelated cropped up like instantly. I am trying to figure outside the box, but I am now boxed in.
Cargo Master
Joined: Mar 2007
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From: Arcadia, Fla
My 84 F250 had the same problem as yours, run for a few min or so then dead. I pulled the SPOUT connector and problem went away. For me the ECU was killing the spark through the SPOUT. New ECU fixed that till I changed over to EFI as I got tired of hard starts when cold and the carb was wore out(bushings).
Pull codes and see if you have any TPS or MAP codes set as you allready changed the ECU. Something is confusing the ECU causing it not to fire the ignition correctly. Most likely bad wires are going to be found.
Pull codes and see if you have any TPS or MAP codes set as you allready changed the ECU. Something is confusing the ECU causing it not to fire the ignition correctly. Most likely bad wires are going to be found.
