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Never thought of that but makes total sense. Ill just route both airlines to the rear of truck and air each bag separately to needed psi. I cant imagine those bags take too long to air up. Anyway Ill be very curious to see the differences having the truck leveled makes in reducing vibrations.
Thanks for all the help above.
STM
Running the air lines separately is the right way to do it, the air bags will be an improvement for sure. I can't see you having axle wrap with this set up (same as I have Rv and truck)
For this discussion it isn't axle wrap that is the problem. Wrong term. The vibration is caused by the misalignment of the drive shaft components which would happen if the rear end drops too much. No different than if you were to put a lift kit on your truck. Shims would be needed to realign the angle of the drive shaft.
Thanks again for all the replies. Makes much more sense now. Hopefully Santa comes through for me. Im planning to take a week in February to head south for a few days and get out of this Mi weather.
STM
Thanks again for all the replies. Makes much more sense now. Hopefully Santa comes through for me. Im planning to take a week in February to head south for a few days and get out of this Mi weather.
STM
seanjackmc, how about sending me a PM when you get the air springs on with the results. I planning on doing the same in the spring.
No problem Spud, Im going to install them myself. My rv dealer wanted 3hrs of labor at 99/hr. Id rather spend a half day doing it myself and save the coin. Plus you dont even need to drill with my setup just bolts on.
You might want to send Senix a pm. He has the same bags ill be installing and seems to very happy with them he also probably has a better mechanical understanding then I do! I cant wait to have my truck sit level. I hate the way it looks sitting down with my 2200 pin weight. Plus Im betting the handling will be improved having a little more weight back on the front of the truck.
Ill keep you posted.
STM
Everybody has explained this very well but while I was surfing the web a few minutes ago, I found this diagram of axle wrap. Basically, it's when torque / power is applied and the axle begins to "wrap" in the leaves as shown in the diagram:
Hope this helps fz1dave.
When I pull the bed off my F250 in the spring, I'll post some pictures- That's what my springs look like at a rest.
I am having an axle wrap issue with my older F250 when carrying a heavy load on the flatbed or towing. I have helper airbags installed and until I read this old thread I thought the bags might be part of the problem. However, after reading this thread it now sounds like I need to increase the pressure in the bags to correct the at-rest pinion angle. In other words sagging too much is putting the rear driveline in a position that will make it more likely to push the pinion snout upwards. Frankly, that doesn't sound quite right to me. Anyone wanna tell me why I am wrong?
I am currently running about 40 psi when loaded up.
Can you give us a bit more information on your "older F250"?
Year?
Engine?
Differential gear ratio?
Major modifications that increase HP ot TQ?
Lift kit or no?
Tire size?
Etc...
I have a 2000 7.3L ZF6 F250 with a Borg Warner SXE turbo. Since I tow 12,000 lbs cross country and was experiencing axle wrap I installed traction bars from OUO. I do have air bags as well, but they were not 100 necessary.
No more axle wrap or loss of torque to the ground.
My install of the traction bars is linked below in case you have a similar truck.
Truck is a 1986 f250 4x4, 460, t19 w/ granny, 4.something gears i assume, stock other than helper airbags on rear axle.
Looking for a cheap and quick solution. If increasing the pressure in the bags will work, great. Also thinking about putting a cutdown mainleaf above the current mainleaf. Read somewhere on the web that this helps wrap. Not really interested in traction bars at the moment as I just haven't got the time at the moment to do the fabwork and can't justify the price of a bolt on kit.