Grrr, sometimes I hate the search function!

I'm hoping to tear down the front on the F350 with the Dana 60, I know there's a great thread on this, but can't find it!!

Also, I have some snap ring pliers, but wondering what style tips work best? Straight, bent? Would like to know so that I can get a pair if I need to before getting into things.

Just figure I should check everything out before I start putting this thing into any sort of serious work.

 

just rebuilt a 60. i think i used a 45 degree snapring but you should beable to ger to the snaprings with any of them. youll also need a spindle nut socket if you dont already have one. other than that its pretty straight forward.

 

ya, i'll be doin that once i get the truck back from having the gears installed. new bearings for sure, wanna throw on some drilled and slotted rotors for it while im at it. possibly a new kingpin, we'll see.

 

Dana 60 Rebuild .: Articles Have a look here.

 

Yep, I have a spindle nut socket already. I'll have to look, I was thinking my snap ring pliers are 90degree, but now I'm wondering if they are straight..... CRS these days. Lazy K, great article, but that covers more of the guts, I'm just looking to do the outboard ends and check everything out. I could have sworn there was a thread somewhere that covered it.......

 

you guys are fancy.i just use a couple screw drivers lol.
next,i just remove everything and set them on a clean surface in the order i removed them,this way install is a breeze.
lets see how my memory is,
remove the locking hubs if course with allen wrench.-hey ever had one of those rust solid? grab a little bit and drill the head right off.once you remove the locking hub you can turn the stud out with your fingers.of course you'll need a new bolt from the auto store.
once you remove that,you just pretty much follow your nose,setting the lock rings and guts aside in order.
the outter ring is kinds tricky to find the end of,with the grease and all,then kinda tricky to pry/follow along it with a skinny screw driver,but she'll come out with a slight bend/angle as you follow it around.
its right up front on the outer edge.
then you'll see the little lock ring,you can use the the snap ring pliers there,but it does pop right off pretty easy with a little screw driver or two as well.that ones on the inner most shaft/spline,or whatever the name is for it lol.pretty much at the end,maybe like a 1/2 inch in.hard to remember.but you cant miss it.
then look inside,and remove the outer nut,then you'll see the lock washer with a tab in it,that sits inside the inner lock nut.use a couple skinny screw drivers to work this away from the sticky grease.then you can set your socket inside and unscrew that with a ratchet of course.
then you've got your bearings and seals.
the outer bearing,even if it inspects good,you'll want to pack it with fresh grease.
wipe all the old off of everything you can.
the inner wheel bearing,you'll notice,cannot be repacked without new seals.however nothing stops you from removing some old grease and packing in new using your fingers.you can get it pretty dang good actually with a little time spent.
the outer,(you propbably know how,but what the heck) grab a nice big dab of it,with clean/old grease gone,hands.and keep pressing the bearing into the palm of your hand.you'll see the bearing push out more old grease.keep spinning it,and pressing it like you mean in,into the new grease in your palm.do this for a good 3-5 minutes.
clean up all you can,and put a little dab of grease inside,and around everything.not to much here,as you don't want things to heat up.just smothered good.
probably a piece here or there i missed.but that's pretty much it.
of course if you see a bad seal or bearing,just replace it.

oh.as for tightening the lock nut back up during assembly.the only iv found to work,is to over tighten the lock nut.spin the wheel by hand,and check your lock nut washer,tighten so that you need to back off the nut a bit to line up the pin.
going by the book by torquing,i always get a loose wheel! this is the best way iv found.
thats about the hardest part of the job,lining that lock washer back up.provided you kept everything in order.
i think this pretty well covers ya.anything iv left out,you should be able to see what to do.

oh.the locking hubs.careful how you install them.keep the spring and all set aside together.
you can tell how all that works,but iv put them back together incorrectly and it didn't engage when i turned the hub to lock.i put the spring in the wrong place or something.just test it with 3 of the screws seated first.you'll know whens it correct,cus it feel "empty" otherwise when the spring isnt right.
it's pretty simple to figure out though if you didn't keep those together like you should have.cant remember just what i did now.
didn't go anywhere,i made sure to test them right then of course,and just corrected it.was just the one side.i payed attention when doing the other.

 

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/9...-u-joints.html Also this.

 

ahh.theres a good one.
yeah i missed some stuff.

 

the outboard ends are cake, just pull the lockouts and internals, remove the jamb nut, locking tab, and inner adjusting nut, then the hub assembly pulls right off.

drive the races out of the hub. it helps alot to knock the lug studs out before you try to drive the rotors off.

if you are gunna pull the spindles remoce the 1/2'' locknuts and tap down with a deadblow hammer. the spindles have a taper on the back that lock them in.

then pull the king bushing cap and remove the bushing and spring. pull the lower kingpin and the bearing assemble then the knuckle should pull off. tilt the bottom upwars and lift it off the upper kingpin. the upper pin rarely needs to be replaced so if it looks good and isnt pitted dont mess with it. i replaced all the bearings, bushings and seals in mine and it drives real nice now.

when you go to install the new races throw them in the freezer for a day or so, then drive them in and make sure the bores are clean, and they go in straight.

if you need any partnumbers let me know, i just did a total rebuild on a kingpin 60 it went pretty smooth for me so good luck to ya

 

make sure you use a good greese when you put it back together, no cheap stuff here.

here is a link to the dana 60 repair manual from dana. its got all the torque values and related stuff in it for ya.
http://www2.dana.com/pdf/5309-3.pdf

dana has all their service manuals on their website for free. lotta good info here, driveshafts too.

 

same here. i redid 6-7 D-60's using small screwdrivers and dental picks before i bought a set of snap ring pliers.

 

I'm thinking I need to check out the u-joints, this truck was parked for winter a lot of years, and until now has been parked almost three years. I know if nothing else there will be some hard dry grease in places, and trying to figure out the best way to get it back into service.

I'm also going to check out the king pins and bearings for them, this is the same truck that has strange wear on the tires, so wondering if it may be more than just toe-in adjustment issues.

 

the kingpins are pretty easy. just remove the caps on the uppers and inspect the springs and bushings.
the lowers are roller bearings.

when you have it apart, replacing the u-joints is a very good idea and cheap insurance that one will not go on you at -10 degrees on a snow covered dirt road 3 miles into the woods 100 miles from home..


been there, done that. and it is not fun trying to remove the rear D-shaft so you can get out using the front drive, that also has a bad u-joint.

 

ahh,wheel u-joint replacement.
that's where the job turns from "hey this ain't too bad",just a little time consuming,to "no freaking fun at all."

 

yea i had to torch the u joints out of yokes. i cut the center out of the cross and drove the caps out that way. its a royal PITA.