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Old Nov 29, 2010 | 01:29 PM
  #1  
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Alternator replacement

I need to replace my alternator on my 04 deisel and was wondering if I'm going to need a special tool for the tensioner pully?
 
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Old Nov 29, 2010 | 01:38 PM
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No need for a special tool. If you have a helper it is best. You can pull on the belt from the passenger side while your buddy flips the tab to lock it in. Then just change it out. Some people "bungie" the belt to keep in in tension and prevent it fropm slipping off of a pulley.
 
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Old Nov 29, 2010 | 04:22 PM
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on person can do it. i did, but it takes some muscle to get that belt back on. i loosened up the four bolt and took off the connections with the altennator loosened you can slip the belt off. putting it back on is kinda the reverse of that. i tipped the alt up so that you could get the belt on the pully, then just push it down so that it sits on the stand after that you can start putting the bolts back in by starting in the back then the front BE SURE not to cross thread the bolts when you are putting them back in. This might take a couple trys to get the holes lined up but it worked for me.

on edit: i did it this way because i was on the side of the road and running out of daylight to remove the fan shroud and stuff to get to the tensioner pully to loosen it up and i didn't know about the lock on the tensioner this way seemed the fastest way to get it running again.
 

Last edited by havns3; Nov 29, 2010 at 04:26 PM. Reason: added more to my ramblin's
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Old Nov 29, 2010 | 08:00 PM
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Just did mine tonight... Take a good look on the passenger side of the tensioner and you should see a little tab... kinda like a kick stand... Anyway just pull the belt towards the passenger fender and reach down to put the "kick stand" in. works great!!

With that said... I too did it the hard way the first time and it can be done but once I found the tensioner tab life was much easier!

Good luck!
 
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Old Nov 29, 2010 | 10:16 PM
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When I did mine I had a long screwdriver (a stick, bar or heavy wire would also work) that I used to lift the tab. When you are pulling on the belt it's hard to reach down to the idler pulley.
When you are done a quick pull on the belt and the tab falls down.
 
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Old Nov 29, 2010 | 10:37 PM
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the tensioner has a spot for a 1/2" inch drive. You can weld a long rod or a thick metal strip with a 1/2" on then end or reach down there with a socket wrench and turn the tensioner.
 
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Old Nov 30, 2010 | 08:14 AM
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Alternator

Thank you all for the advise. I looked down and saw the "kick stand", now it doesn't look so bad to do. Thanks again.
 
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Old Dec 8, 2010 | 03:22 PM
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I just replaced my alternator today . It started flickering only when I stepped hard on gas pedal and it left me stock at the house yesterday morning .
I found the tap you all talk about but could not figure or see what to do with it . Very little clearance .Tried to use a 1/2 long rachet on the tensioner but did not have enough clearance to do it (I saw the speclal too in the internet and will be buying one) .
Took off the hot wire to alternator, insulated with black tape, took connector of with the help of a small screwdriver to let the tap go , took off all three bolts, leaned the alternator foward and took off the belt , used a bungee cord to the belt and hooked on the hood openings. Installed alternator on the belt leaning foward , tilted back and pushed back on the unit from the back of it to settle flat , line up the holes and tightenned.
Voila !
Love my 6.0 !!!!

Roberto.
 
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Old Dec 8, 2010 | 04:09 PM
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Originally Posted by lechonera
...I found the tap you all talk about but could not figure or see what to do with it . Very little clearance . ...
Roberto.
When you pull back on the belt, just below the alternator pulley, the idler/tensioner lifts up. If you have pulled hard enough you can lift the little tab that is under the pulley. Release the belt and the tab holds the pulley allowing you to change the belt. I found that I needed a long screwdriver to reach the tab but a stick or coathanger would work as well. When you are done pull the belt again and the tab drops down.
 
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Old Dec 8, 2010 | 04:17 PM
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Originally Posted by lechonera
I just replaced my alternator today . It started flickering only when I stepped hard on gas pedal and it left me stock at the house yesterday morning .
I found the tap you all talk about but could not figure or see what to do with it . Very little clearance .Tried to use a 1/2 long rachet on the tensioner but did not have enough clearance to do it (I saw the speclal too in the internet and will be buying one) .
Took off the hot wire to alternator, insulated with black tape, took connector of with the help of a small screwdriver to let the tap go , took off all three bolts, leaned the alternator foward and took off the belt , used a bungee cord to the belt and hooked on the hood openings. Installed alternator on the belt leaning foward , tilted back and pushed back on the unit from the back of it to settle flat , line up the holes and tightenned.
Voila !
Love my 6.0 !!!!

Roberto.
Did you put back on a stock alternator? I was wondering what everyone is upgrading to. I would like a new alt as mine is 5 years old and not as strong as it once was.
 
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Old Dec 8, 2010 | 04:25 PM
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Originally Posted by jetact
Did you put back on a stock alternator? I was wondering what everyone is upgrading to. I would like a new alt as mine is 5 years old and not as strong as it once was.
DC Power is the BEST way to go for an alternator IMHO.

Just for grins and giggles--with the truck running check one of your batteries for AC (not DC) volts and see if you have more than .3 or .4 vAC and post back?? Make sure that you have the leads the proper polarity on the VOM and battery. Doing some research here.
 
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Old Dec 8, 2010 | 04:37 PM
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Originally Posted by npccpartsman
DC Power is the BEST way to go for an alternator IMHO.

Just for grins and giggles--with the truck running check one of your batteries for AC (not DC) volts and see if you have more than .3 or .4 vAC and post back?? Make sure that you have the leads the proper polarity on the VOM and battery. Doing some research here.
I will do that when I get home as I have a digital meter there. I have a cheap one hear at work and it must not be working right as I got 25 volts. So just put the leads red on red and blk on blk. Set the volt meter to AC and get a reading.
 
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Old Dec 8, 2010 | 04:42 PM
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Originally Posted by jetact
I will do that when I get home as I have a digital meter there. I have a cheap one hear at work and it must not be working right as I got 25 volts. So just put the leads red on red and blk on blk. Set the volt meter to AC and get a reading.
Correct. I'm sure that if you reverse the leads you'll get nothing. I got 31.8 from mine red to positive black to negative and 0.00 reversed. Reversed will also give you a negative DC volt reading as a check.
 
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Old Dec 8, 2010 | 04:48 PM
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Originally Posted by npccpartsman
Correct. I'm sure that if you reverse the leads you'll get nothing. I got 31.8 from mine red to positive black to negative and 0.00 reversed. Reversed will also give you a negative DC volt reading as a check.

31.8? I thought you were looking for .3 or .4. What does that hight number mean?
 
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Old Dec 8, 2010 | 04:50 PM
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Originally Posted by jetact
31.8? I thought you were looking for .3 or .4. What does that hight number mean?
It means the diodes in the rectifier are not working and it has issues.

Let me know how yours comes out please? Shoot me a PM or my old self might fergit.
 
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