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Alternator replacement

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Old Dec 8, 2010 | 08:39 PM
  #16  
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jetact
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Originally Posted by npccpartsman
It means the diodes in the rectifier are not working and it has issues.

Let me know how yours comes out please? Shoot me a PM or my old self might fergit.
I just checked it. Not sure how to read this. The digital display bounced from .018 and then the next reading was 7.35. It kept bouncing back and forth of those two numbers. Any ideas?

I checked DCV at my alt and it was 13.83. The passenger batt was 13.50. The drivers side batt was 13.46. Truck was running and had been about 5 minutes.

Batteries were new this spring. Thanks for your help. Looking forward to any ideas.
 
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Old Dec 8, 2010 | 11:50 PM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by npccpartsman
DC Power is the BEST way to go for an alternator IMHO.

Just for grins and giggles--with the truck running check one of your batteries for AC (not DC) volts and see if you have more than .3 or .4 vAC and post back?? Make sure that you have the leads the proper polarity on the VOM and battery. Doing some research here.
I checked mine tonight and saw 13.8vDC and 0.0vAC at idle.
Which brings up a question, if the AC voltage is a sign of rectifier failure can the rectifier board be replaced? Does Ford or someone sell it as a repair part?
 
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Old Dec 9, 2010 | 05:16 AM
  #18  
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The part is available. I checked on it yesterday. You just have to have a new rectifier installed. I think the repair out the door was about $70. The trick with these alternators is a (can't remember the exact terminology) small sleeve that goes in with the rear bearing that's VERY easy to break and normally has to be replaced. I have a good rectifier in an otherwise bad alternator I'm tempted to try. Not much to loose at this point.
 
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Old Dec 9, 2010 | 10:07 AM
  #19  
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davidkstyler
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Originally Posted by npccpartsman
The part is available. I checked on it yesterday. You just have to have a new rectifier installed. I think the repair out the door was about $70. The trick with these alternators is a (can't remember the exact terminology) small sleeve that goes in with the rear bearing that's VERY easy to break and normally has to be replaced. I have a good rectifier in an otherwise bad alternator I'm tempted to try. Not much to loose at this point.
Can you post part numbers? I have heard that the Ford alternators don't last too long!
 
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Old Dec 9, 2010 | 10:10 AM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by davidkstyler
Can you post part numbers? I have heard that the Ford alternators don't last too long!
I got the information from a small shop here that rebuilds so no part numbers, sorry. So far all I've gotten about the AC volts at the alternator is that it's a non-issue but I'm still doing research.
 
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Old Dec 9, 2010 | 10:47 AM
  #21  
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So........after making a few phone calls and getting some answers that I must be crazy and didn't know WTF I was talking about I called and talked to the guy at alternator parts dot com. Super nice and knowledgeable fellow.

The bad news is that the diodes in the rectifier are failing and the results are that it will cause early battery failure as dchamberlain posted to me in another thread. The only cure is to replace the rectifier--cost about $40. I'll be ordering the xhd model rectifier and deal with it until then.
 
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Old Dec 9, 2010 | 10:51 AM
  #22  
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Alternator repair

I found this site, they claim to use US components.
National Quick Start Sales, High output alternator, Alternator & Starter Parts - 6G (Large Case & Small Case)

They have parts and complete alternators, standard duty and up to 200A heavy duty. Ford Power Stroke 7.3L 6.0L 6.4L 6.7L Diesel Type High Output Large Case 6G Series Alternators
 
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